thanks for all the suggestions and help siphor. As a followup, I checked my plugs since I did some driving and they are all real dry and the nice even tan color they are supposed to be. Before the timing set was replaced, some of them were a bit dark/wet and fouled looking.

 

Watch your gas mileage as well, you should see an improvement. The number one problem caused by a loose chain is bad mileage.

 

I thought I would jump in here and share my idling problem. Go to the link below for the complete details of my troubles.

http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/cgi-bi...ct=ST;f=1;t=87

I just signed up here yesterday so I am a new guy. I have an 89 centurion that has been randomly stalling on me, rough idle at times and slow starts. It even died once and wouldn't restart right away. I just replace the thottle body last night because the old one would stick and idle at 1200 to 1400 rpm's. I could get it to stick when moving it by hand as well. I just replace it last night so I will see how things go. So far no more high idling and it hasn't stalled yet but I haven't driven it much.

The IAC, EGR, TP, TB, both fuel pumps, fuel filter and module have been replaced.

I haven't changed or looked at the timing chain and I will. The truch has 124K on it and I have no clue if the chain has been replaced or not. I am also going to replace the part on the C-6 transmision like someone had suggested in this post.

My theory now to the stalling is the computer would adjust the idle back down when the idle would go high because of the sticking throttle body. Once the TB wasn't stuck anymore the airsupply was cut off from the engine and the computer could not compensate fast enough and stall. What do you think?

I will post a response if the TB doesn't fix my problem. With my luck it won't fix the problem.

 

Did you replace the PCV? See above for details. When you say module, do you mean the fuel pressure regulator? Even though you have replaced most of the fuel system, I would get a gauge to check the pressure.

Check for missing/broken vaccum hoses?

 

The PO had replaced plugs wires and it appears to have had the PCV replaced. I will replace it as well the piece on the C-6 trans. I also need to read up on the routing thing for the PCV.

I replaced one cracked vacuum hose that attaches to the TB and I will continue to dig through them. I may just buy a bunch of vacuum hose and change all of them during the xmas shut down. I also hope to swap out the C-6 with the ZF as a replacement. Thats another plan I am working on.

I know the new fuel pumps have more pressure than before. When the truck died the first time and wouldn't restart I checked the valve and it only sprayed a little and it was done. Now it takes 30 secs or so for the pressure to bleed off. It still can't hurt to check it with a gauge. I will see if I can come up with one. I could have a regulator problem? I haven't changed it yet.

When I say module (spelling?) I mean the the module on the distributor. The old modules used to get hot and die. Once they cooled down the car would start up again. I hear that the newer modules just die. There is no restarting the new one once it dies. When I say new I mean the dizzy mounted ones and the old where the inner fender mounted ones. I replaced it just to rule out as a cause.

If you didn't read the postings from the other site my truck has only died twice and wouldn't restart right away. Both times it was within 15 minutes of each other. Thats why i thought I had a bad fuel pump. The truck has stalled on me since the changes but has restarted everytime. Now with the new TB I will wait and see what happens. I hate to make more than one change at a time. With one change at a time I will know which change fixes the problem and it may provide small improvements. thanks bob