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Folks,
Our '51 C1BA Flathead in our M47 pickup seems to be running too rich with a very black sooty tail pipe as evidence. It has a 7RT carby. Where should I first look to find the problem? The ignition timing has been reset with the distributor vacuum line disconnected. Engine starts well when cold or hot with 17 -19 of vacuum at the wiper vacuum connection when hot. It has a slightly rough idle and all the tweeking of the idle screws wont smooth it out to my liking.
Thanks for any replies.
I’m pretty new to these engines, only 2 years since I bought mine, but I’ve noticed a common thread with flattys I’ve seen at shows, black sooty tailpipe and slightly rough idle.
Mine is pretty much the same. It starts, runs, cruises, just fine. New carb, points, condenser, plug wires, plugs. Adjusted timing, dwell, spark advance operates to spec, idle mixture, good compression in all 8, vacuum 18-20”. Guess what, slightly rough idle, sooty tailpipe.
I think (in my very novice opinion) that plug condition tells you more than tailpipe. Remember these vehicles don’t have any pollution control at all.
I’m pretty new to these engines, only 2 years since I bought mine, but I’ve noticed a common thread with flattys I’ve seen at shows, black sooty tailpipe and slightly rough idle.
Mine is pretty much the same. It starts, runs, cruises, just fine. New carb, points, condenser, plug wires, plugs. Adjusted timing, dwell, spark advance operates to spec, idle mixture, good compression in all 8, vacuum 18-20”. Guess what, slightly rough idle, sooty tailpipe.
I think (in my very novice opinion) that plug condition tells you more than tailpipe. Remember these vehicles don’t have any pollution control at all.
How far out from closed are the idle mixture screws? If more than 1-1/2 turns try a leaner setting.
It idles best at 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 turns out. Any more out than that makes no difference what so ever and it wont idle rougher with the idle screws most of the way out, not sure why as I can stall the engine with idle screws turned most of the way in.
BTW should there be idle sensitivity with the idle screws too far out like there is when idle screws are too far in?
Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
Thats exactly what the operators manual says. Here’s a screenshot of the section…
Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
I am beginning to think that my carburation is not healthy because if I wind both screws out to the last thread I can't get what you describe a "roll", it just stays the same. But winding them too far in from 1-1/2 turns to 0 definitely has a huge influence on engine idle to the point where it will stop.
You might want to check your float height if it’s to high the gas will percolate up and out of the venturis causing an uneven, rough idle. Had same issue with my 94 carb, lowered the float and problem went away. I believe the final setting on my float was about 1.5” - 1.15/32 “.
I am beginning to think that my carburation is not healthy because if I wind both screws out to the last thread I can't get what you describe a "roll", it just stays the same. But winding them too far in from 1-1/2 turns to 0 definitely has a huge influence on engine idle to the point where it will stop.
Thats pretty much how mine behaves. If you run the idle screws all the way in, you’ll starve the engine. Once open them to where it’s running smooth, turn them out more, if it doesn’t “roll” that’s ok, mine is a very subtle roll. I set it at about 1/4 turn past where it smooths out.
If you’re still not satisfied, either send it out to cowboy John, Charlie NY, or buy a repop from Chuck’s Trucks. I’m running the repop with the rebuild from Charlie NY in my toolbox as a spare.
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