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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

7RT Carby Running Rich

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Old Jul 3, 2022 | 03:34 AM
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7RT Carby Running Rich

Folks,
Our '51 C1BA Flathead in our M47 pickup seems to be running too rich with a very black sooty tail pipe as evidence. It has a 7RT carby. Where should I first look to find the problem? The ignition timing has been reset with the distributor vacuum line disconnected. Engine starts well when cold or hot with 17 -19 of vacuum at the wiper vacuum connection when hot. It has a slightly rough idle and all the tweeking of the idle screws wont smooth it out to my liking.
Thanks for any replies.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2022 | 01:25 PM
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Leaking power valve is a common issue. Be sure to get the proper style power valve and nylon gasket as discussed here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19202480
 
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Old Jul 3, 2022 | 03:46 PM
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I’m pretty new to these engines, only 2 years since I bought mine, but I’ve noticed a common thread with flattys I’ve seen at shows, black sooty tailpipe and slightly rough idle.

Mine is pretty much the same. It starts, runs, cruises, just fine. New carb, points, condenser, plug wires, plugs. Adjusted timing, dwell, spark advance operates to spec, idle mixture, good compression in all 8, vacuum 18-20”. Guess what, slightly rough idle, sooty tailpipe.

I think (in my very novice opinion) that plug condition tells you more than tailpipe. Remember these vehicles don’t have any pollution control at all.

Then again, I could be all wrong.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2022 | 06:24 PM
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Have you cleaned the air filter lately. Let it soak in a solvent and give it some good agitation if it’s the original element.

JB
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 3twinridges
Have you cleaned the air filter lately. Let it soak in a solvent and give it some good agitation if it’s the original element.

JB
It is the oil bath type.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Ingram
I’m pretty new to these engines, only 2 years since I bought mine, but I’ve noticed a common thread with flattys I’ve seen at shows, black sooty tailpipe and slightly rough idle.

Mine is pretty much the same. It starts, runs, cruises, just fine. New carb, points, condenser, plug wires, plugs. Adjusted timing, dwell, spark advance operates to spec, idle mixture, good compression in all 8, vacuum 18-20”. Guess what, slightly rough idle, sooty tailpipe.

I think (in my very novice opinion) that plug condition tells you more than tailpipe. Remember these vehicles don’t have any pollution control at all.

Then again, I could be all wrong.
Plugs are sooty but not fouled.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bmoran4
Leaking power valve is a common issue. Be sure to get the proper style power valve and nylon gasket as discussed here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19202480
Thanks, I'll look into that.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 48m47
It is the oil bath type.
That horse hair element type needs to be cleaned in solvent periodically.

JB
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 01:52 PM
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How far out from closed are the idle mixture screws? If more than 1-1/2 turns try a leaner setting.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
How far out from closed are the idle mixture screws? If more than 1-1/2 turns try a leaner setting.
It idles best at 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 turns out. Any more out than that makes no difference what so ever and it wont idle rougher with the idle screws most of the way out, not sure why as I can stall the engine with idle screws turned most of the way in.
BTW should there be idle sensitivity with the idle screws too far out like there is when idle screws are too far in?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 03:22 PM
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Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
Thats exactly what the operators manual says. Here’s a screenshot of the section…



 
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Old Jul 5, 2022 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Usually if the screws are too far out, it will begin to "roll", cycling up and down. I'd try them as far in as you can go and still get a reasonable idle. It may require resetting the throttle a little.
I am beginning to think that my carburation is not healthy because if I wind both screws out to the last thread I can't get what you describe a "roll", it just stays the same. But winding them too far in from 1-1/2 turns to 0 definitely has a huge influence on engine idle to the point where it will stop.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2022 | 09:12 AM
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You might want to check your float height if it’s to high the gas will percolate up and out of the venturis causing an uneven, rough idle. Had same issue with my 94 carb, lowered the float and problem went away. I believe the final setting on my float was about 1.5” - 1.15/32 “.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2022 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 48m47
I am beginning to think that my carburation is not healthy because if I wind both screws out to the last thread I can't get what you describe a "roll", it just stays the same. But winding them too far in from 1-1/2 turns to 0 definitely has a huge influence on engine idle to the point where it will stop.
Thats pretty much how mine behaves. If you run the idle screws all the way in, you’ll starve the engine. Once open them to where it’s running smooth, turn them out more, if it doesn’t “roll” that’s ok, mine is a very subtle roll. I set it at about 1/4 turn past where it smooths out.

If you’re still not satisfied, either send it out to cowboy John, Charlie NY, or buy a repop from Chuck’s Trucks. I’m running the repop with the rebuild from Charlie NY in my toolbox as a spare.
 
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