Do i need to upgrade
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1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2022
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Do i need to upgrade
I have a 2007 F-150 SuperCrew 139"XLT with a towing hitch. It has a 5.4 with an Auto/OD.I have towed uhaul trailers with it, but I am thinking of buying a 6X12 enclosed trailer. Can my current set up pulled that safely or do I need to make any upgrades? Thank you for any advice.
Chuck Taylor
Chuck Taylor
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,719
Likes: 12,861
From: Wyoming
It depends on the GVWR of the trailer and how much tongue weight it will have.
Check the Towing Guide linked below to get your trailer capacity.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/d...VTTowGuide.pdf
If your truck doesn't have a brake controller, you'll need one. Many of the U-haul trailers don't require a trailer brake. The enclosed utility trailer will.
You may want to look at using stouter tires that are a step up from the OEM tires (likely P-metric). The OEM tires are rated to carry the rated payload, but the stouter tires are stiffer, providing a better stance (sway) when towing.
Check the Towing Guide linked below to get your trailer capacity.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/d...VTTowGuide.pdf
If your truck doesn't have a brake controller, you'll need one. Many of the U-haul trailers don't require a trailer brake. The enclosed utility trailer will.
You may want to look at using stouter tires that are a step up from the OEM tires (likely P-metric). The OEM tires are rated to carry the rated payload, but the stouter tires are stiffer, providing a better stance (sway) when towing.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 10,779
Likes: 1,512
It depends on the GVWR of the trailer and how much tongue weight it will have.
Check the Towing Guide linked below to get your trailer capacity.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/d...VTTowGuide.pdf
If your truck doesn't have a brake controller, you'll need one. Many of the U-haul trailers don't require a trailer brake. The enclosed utility trailer will.
You may want to look at using stouter tires that are a step up from the OEM tires (likely P-metric). The OEM tires are rated to carry the rated payload, but the stouter tires are stiffer, providing a better stance (sway) when towing.
Check the Towing Guide linked below to get your trailer capacity.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/d...VTTowGuide.pdf
If your truck doesn't have a brake controller, you'll need one. Many of the U-haul trailers don't require a trailer brake. The enclosed utility trailer will.
You may want to look at using stouter tires that are a step up from the OEM tires (likely P-metric). The OEM tires are rated to carry the rated payload, but the stouter tires are stiffer, providing a better stance (sway) when towing.
Personally, I switch to Load Range E on everything when the first (to me) set of tires are due to be replaced.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,514
Likes: 670
From: Sioux Falls Area
Single axle 6x12 … hook up and go
double axle 6x12 … add a brake controller, then hook up and go.
the larger uhaul enclosed trailers are this size, so unless it is abnormally tall there is nothing to get worked up about here. The 5.4 equipped truck will have a towing package, so there really nothing to worry about here IMO
double axle 6x12 … add a brake controller, then hook up and go.
the larger uhaul enclosed trailers are this size, so unless it is abnormally tall there is nothing to get worked up about here. The 5.4 equipped truck will have a towing package, so there really nothing to worry about here IMO
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 502
Keep in mind, the Uhaul trailers you rented are likely to have been much heavier than the trailer you'll buy. If the truck did fine with the Uhaul, it'll do fine with the 6x12, just make sure you have the proper braking setup for the trailer. Uhauls use surge brakes, the trailer you buy will likely use electric brakes so you'll need a brake controller.
Tuned
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 304
Likes: 77
From: St Paul MN
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 21
OP:
Looking at the towing reference, I think the truck will be good to go, properly set up (towing package, trailer brakes, E-rated tires, etc.). Around here, most single-axle trailers are rated at 3500lbs and tandem axles at 7000lbs. A 6x12 could be either. And be sure your brakes are good-to-go. Flushing the brake fluid with top-end fluid with a higher boil temp is easy, as are new performance rotors and pads. It would take you a morning.
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Verdad Gallardo
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,514
Likes: 670
From: Sioux Falls Area
There is no need for the truck to maintain its natural stance when towing a trailer. Pickups have a natural rake so that they can carry the weight without the rear being too low, but it is silly to expect them To have the same stance when loaded.
now, if it is sagging too much when loaded, then it might need some help. but usually when it sags too much, the rear is overloaded or the springs are a bit weak. But to add enough spring that there is no sag when towing is just not necessary.
now, if it is sagging too much when loaded, then it might need some help. but usually when it sags too much, the rear is overloaded or the springs are a bit weak. But to add enough spring that there is no sag when towing is just not necessary.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,719
Likes: 12,861
From: Wyoming
In another thread this week I posted a picture of my truck unloaded with the natural rake. Then a second picture loaded with my bumper pull trailer where the truck looked pretty close to level. Oddly enough, when the gravel yard mistakenly loaded 6,000 lbs of river rock in my truck it didn't look much different. That's one tough overload spring.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 131
Likes: 21
The squat under load does seem to be the in the majority.
Nonetheless, I prefer little or no change in stance when under load. Generally, the setup drives better, especially if the road or terrain gets rough. BTDT, before & after load leveling springs on the same truck. Your rear suspension has more resilience and more travel when you hit a bump, too. The front is less squirrelly.. Its no substitute for a WHD, but it is a good place to start. And though I prefer the load-leveling springs, air bags and the big solid rubber spring deals generate similar results in the rear end.
Nonetheless, I prefer little or no change in stance when under load. Generally, the setup drives better, especially if the road or terrain gets rough. BTDT, before & after load leveling springs on the same truck. Your rear suspension has more resilience and more travel when you hit a bump, too. The front is less squirrelly.. Its no substitute for a WHD, but it is a good place to start. And though I prefer the load-leveling springs, air bags and the big solid rubber spring deals generate similar results in the rear end.
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