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Did you have to do the curved or would the straight work? do you have a pic of the grill back on looking at the lights form above, like the space in front and behind? I just found out the Rough Country has DRL which may look neat if I can make it work right. they seem to be about 1" deeper than the amazon ones. The few reviews on amazon with low stars about rust and fog kinda worry me.
You would need them to be curved.
Sofar no rust or fog issues for me, but I've only had them on the truck for a couple months. If they do they are like $65 each. You could buy 3 of them for the price of 1 of those rough country bars.
Yes it's the 32'' bar. I used the included bracket inverted on the bottom mount and the upper I used a mount from a different light bar I had and didn't use. That said, You could get the included one to work, just might need to add a longer bolt and spacer to increase the length so it can reach the plastic support it bolts to.
Here are the ones I put in on my BAP Lariat. I added the yellow tint to the bottom one. These are actual stupid bright light bars, not just an appearance LED strip.
Thanks for sharing! I am still awaiting build and delivery of a F250 Lariat BAP, but I like the idea of yellow fogs, especially to contrast the bright white of the other LEDs in fog, snow, etc. How did you tint your fog lights, and would you mind sharing your source for materials?
Lanier Metal says development is ongoing for 2020+ F250 STX/XLT, KR, Platinum Grille Lights. Personally, I am going to wait to see what he comes up with before I pull the trigger on one of these. Lanier's previous products look to be high quality with good color match and light output match as OEM LED DRLS.
Lanier Metal says development is ongoing for 2020+ F250 STX/XLT, KR, Platinum Grille Lights. Personally, I am going to wait to see what he comes up with before I pull the trigger on one of these. Lanier's previous products look to be high quality with good color match and light output match as OEM LED DRLS.
had a convo with them yesterday and he is working on it. He just opened preorders for the regular grill kit but still working on the "sport" BAP grill kit.
Yes it's the 32'' bar. I used the included bracket inverted on the bottom mount and the upper I used a mount from a different light bar I had and didn't use. That said, You could get the included one to work, just might need to add a longer bolt and spacer to increase the length so it can reach the plastic support it bolts to.
@tarmactrr Do you happen to know the actual lens height? Just wondering if you used a 1" wide tint film or if it was wider than that?
The height of the lights fit perfectly on the front of the grill (not behind), in the thin upper gap of the grill (see attached pic).
I used thick black zip ties through each mounting hole and attached them to the grill, at the far edges of the grille span. They contact fully flush with the grill, with no curvature (facing directly forward). If the zip ties start to give me trouble (which I don't really think that they will) I'll just run a bracket behind the grille and use bolts. I didn't have anything handy to fab the brackets, and found that the zip ties work perfectly with no hardware to supply. And, if one breaks they're cheap and easy to replace.
I connected an add-a-fuse adapter to the 10a Snow Plow fuse in the under-hood fuse box, with a 5a fuse for ignition power to the Normally Closed relay (each LED light bar draws 1.25a). The LED lights were run to the Normally Closed relay circuit, and I tapped into the low beam wire of the driver side headlight to supply the trigger voltage to turn off the LED lights when the low beams are activated. They still come on with the high beams, which is fine as they'll supplement the high beams.
I disabled the daytime driving lights feature, and use these LED lights for that function now. So, whenever the low beams are off and the truck's ignition is on, the LED's activate. Low beams come on, the LED's switch off.
I like the setup, and the LED's aren't extremely obnoxious for daytime running lights. They're bright enough head-on, but not from say, 45 degrees from center line. That's ok, as I want people in direct line-of-sight to see that I'm there. Should I ever decide to replace these LED's with higher wattage lights I can fuse them appropriately, and already have the relay in place to supply power. Should I ever decide to turn them off permanently (or remove them) and reactivate the OEM driving lights, it's a simple matter of unplugging the trigger wire from the relay and unplugging the add-a-fuse from the fuse box.
I'll have to take some photos and upload them, but the attached photo specifies the mounting location.
Edit: Was out running around this afternoon, and snapped a pic of the LED light bars. They're actually brighter than what the picture shows, especially if you're looking directly at the front.
Last edited by JoeUser; Nov 10, 2022 at 06:59 PM.
Reason: spelling mistakes, oops
Thanks for sharing! I am still awaiting build and delivery of a F250 Lariat BAP, but I like the idea of yellow fogs, especially to contrast the bright white of the other LEDs in fog, snow, etc. How did you tint your fog lights, and would you mind sharing your source for materials?
The film is a Lamin-x yellow tint. I got a 2x30 and had to just cut it down to fit for the light bars, and a 2x20 one for both of the fog lights. Have ran the fog lights to always be on with the lights and sofar no issues with bubbles or fading or anything. Very happy with the Lamin-X product.
Originally Posted by mzy4v1
@tarmactrr Do you happen to know the actual lens height? Just wondering if you used a 1" wide tint film or if it was wider than that?
Thanks in advance for the response.
Cheers!
I don't remember the actual lens height but it was close enough that I got the 2'' vs the 1'' as it's very easy to cut it to size.
Originally Posted by BADAS03SVT
I jumped on the preorder for the Lanier metal lights, hope to see them soon!
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