6 volt to 8 or 12 volt
6 volt to 8 or 12 volt
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 214
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From: Kingfisher OK, USA
There has been alot of discussion on this subject. You can try searching the archives here, plus there are articles at other sites, such as:
http://www.bonusbuilt.com/12.html, and
http://www.classictruckshop.com/12volt.asp
Good luck, welcome to the board!
http://www.bonusbuilt.com/12.html, and
http://www.classictruckshop.com/12volt.asp
Good luck, welcome to the board!
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Re: 6 volt to 8 or 12 volt
JW,
There's nothing involved in the 8V change but the battery. I went this route on an old 52 Pontiac years ago. The old straight 8 would not start when hot. The 8 volt battery solved the problem very well. All of your gauges and accessories will take the extra 2 volts with no problem. The 12V change is much more involved as all lights, electrical gauges, radio, heater, coil, generator, horn relay, voltage regulator, electric wipers (if you have 'em), and starter (optional) have to replaced with 12 volt items and a ballast resistor added for the points. I probably left out something....
There's nothing involved in the 8V change but the battery. I went this route on an old 52 Pontiac years ago. The old straight 8 would not start when hot. The 8 volt battery solved the problem very well. All of your gauges and accessories will take the extra 2 volts with no problem. The 12V change is much more involved as all lights, electrical gauges, radio, heater, coil, generator, horn relay, voltage regulator, electric wipers (if you have 'em), and starter (optional) have to replaced with 12 volt items and a ballast resistor added for the points. I probably left out something....
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
8v might be difficult due to suppliers carrying mostly 6v or 12v. The good news is that it is inexpensive to go to 12v:
- Rewire/Replace 6v generator to/with 12v generator
- Replace 6v voltage regulator with 12v
- Change battery cables from positive to negative ground
- Change 6v bulbs and headlights to 12v
- Add voltage reducers for instrument guages
- Add voltage reducers for heater motor, radio, horn ect...
Good Luck!
- Rewire/Replace 6v generator to/with 12v generator
- Replace 6v voltage regulator with 12v
- Change battery cables from positive to negative ground
- Change 6v bulbs and headlights to 12v
- Add voltage reducers for instrument guages
- Add voltage reducers for heater motor, radio, horn ect...
Good Luck!
Last edited by MercM47; Nov 10, 2003 at 06:11 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 126
Likes: 1
From: Northwest
My '49 F1's previous owner had converted to 8V and I converted that to 12V. If you go to 8, you'll need the voltage regulator. I'm not sure you can adjust a 6V regulator to get you up to the about 9.5V you'll need for charging. At 8V, you'll significantly reduce the bulb life of all those 6V bulbs you have. Also, consider how you'll ever charge a dead battery. I guess I wouldn't recommend 8V which is why I went to 12. You're welcome to my nearly new 8V regulator if you want it for the cost to ship it.
Johann
Johann
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Silverthorne Colorado
There is also a 'cheapie' way to go. It's called a dual voltage system. I've run several of them. You change only the generator or alternator to a 12-volt. Then either put a 6-volt 'tap'(*) into a 12-volt battery to run all the accessories OR use 2, 6-volt batteries in series. The 12-volt alternator (or generator) charges both of them, and the accessories rut off just one of them. You can hook a 6-volt starter up to the 12-volt side and it will crank like it's on steroids! Just be a little more aware of not cranking for too long a time. (Believe me, you won't have to crank too long!)
(*) This is the cheapest and most 'Mickey Mouse' way. You screw a large screw or small lag bolt into the lead connector between the third and fourth cell of a 12-volt battery to 'tap into' 6-volts. Then connect all your accessories to this 'tap'. (Like, coil, lights, horn, guages, heater motor, radio, whatever.)
BobJonesSpecial
(*) This is the cheapest and most 'Mickey Mouse' way. You screw a large screw or small lag bolt into the lead connector between the third and fourth cell of a 12-volt battery to 'tap into' 6-volts. Then connect all your accessories to this 'tap'. (Like, coil, lights, horn, guages, heater motor, radio, whatever.)
BobJonesSpecial
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
The horn is like the starter. It will take 12 volts for a long time with no ill effects. Some horns work on direct current and some from a relay. If you have a 6V relay, it won't take 12 volts very long, so change to a 12 volt relay. If the horn operates without a relay, don't worry about it. When you use it, folks will know it! I make it a practice to use 6 volt horns on my 12 volt systems just for the extra loudness...