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Checked continuity from tfi to ecm. It is showing only 60 ohms of resistance. Shouldn't it be 22k? Do these resistors ever fail by shorting? If it did fail by shorting, I would assume that this would turn my ecm into mince meat. Let me know y'alls expert opinion!
The resistor you are mentioning is not in the spout wire, that is in the coil trigger wire. The spout wire is the yellow/lightgreen not the darkgreen/yellow wire. Spout is on pin 36 of the ECM. The wire with the resistor is on pin 4 of the ECM
Here's the ECM side.
Update! I went back and rechecked my resistance. Apparently, I was probing pin 37 instead of 4 when I got my 60 ohm reading. 37 is vpwr, not sure if there should be any continuity there or not, but when I probed pin 4 I got 23.5k ohms. So would the code 18 be the ecm?
Code 18 is for the spout circuit, nothing else. You need to check pin 36 to the spout connector. You should get near zero ohms. That would mean the spout wire is good. I would also pull the large connector off the distributor, and check the wire from the other side of the spout connector to the TFI plug in, and also check the pin in the TFI connector that goes to the spout.
Do you still have the old TFI module? Did you say why it was changed? If you still have it, I would put the old one back in to see what happens. New parts these days have a lousy track record. Something is wrong with this line. I think you did say you still have the old ECM, you could try it too. I am not sure you pulled the codes with the old components in place? If you changed them out to solve other problems, I am wondering if you go back to them would this code go away, even though you may still have other problems.
Old ECM was sent back for core. I changed it because the fuel pump ran constantly with KOEO and I didn't realize at the time that the relay had been rewired. I changed TFI because of a very weak spark. I had already changed rotor button, cap and coil so I figured that was the only component left and it was original. Not sure if it's still here or not. I'm really not sure if the code 18 is causing my main problems anyway. It doesn't completely make since that if it were the SPOUT, why the engine would run so much better with the MAP vacuum removed. Someone mentioned a massive vacuum leak, and I guess that could be it. Not sure what would cause such, but I will be searching. I'll be pulling the upper intake next Saturday to change out the injectors so I'll get a better look then.
Old ECM was sent back for core. I changed it because the fuel pump ran constantly with KOEO and I didn't realize at the time that the relay had been rewired. I changed TFI because of a very weak spark. I had already changed rotor button, cap and coil so I figured that was the only component left and it was original. Not sure if it's still here or not. I'm really not sure if the code 18 is causing my main problems anyway. It doesn't completely make since that if it were the SPOUT, why the engine would run so much better with the MAP vacuum removed. Someone mentioned a massive vacuum leak, and I guess that could be it. Not sure what would cause such, but I will be searching. I'll be pulling the upper intake next Saturday to change out the injectors so I'll get a better look then.
The spout not working and the computer not properly advancing the timing is a major problem. True you may indeed have other problems also, but this engine will be severely handicapped until you get the spout problem taken care of. Wish I could tell you exactly what the problem is. I have serious doubts about anything "rebuilt" especially if it was from Cardone. If a lousy intermittent computer was turned into them, then they will send a lousy intermittent computer out to someone else.
The store does usually honor any warranty they may have, so you could try and see if they happen to give you a good one the second time around.
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