[QUOTE=somethingclever;20458469]I wouldn't fully trust your measurements, but close enough for discussion...if #1 came out of the crank, i would not expect a near solid bushing to crush .003...more like .001-.0015.

Anyway...measure the pilot tip diameter on input shaft of your trans to see what you need for an ID.

I can see having an early crank with a T19 could result in a custom bushing...unless the pilot tip of the T19 is the same as a toploader...then you need a bushing for a 1970 Ford 429 and toploader application (torino). If the pilot tip diameters are different between T19 and toploader, you will need to make a visit to a machine shop to get this done...or call up a friend with a lathe.

D1ve could be internal or external balance...so either someone swapped an early crank into the block, or it's a donor shortblock with the later heads.

Either way it's not a problem...just need to have the right parts to make it work.

Let us know what you measure![/QUOTE
T​rans is a T-19
Measurements are as close as I can get as I've re-measured things at least 6 times. I'm sure I'm within a couple thou each way.
Pilot tip diameter is .690~.670. Bearings 2&3 fit real nice over the input shaft as the ID of both is .670
I'm leaning towards using Item 3 in the pic. It fits the inner step (meas. 1.378) and I think too that it's deep enough to support the input shaft.
I've compared a lot of bushings online from the info I've gathered from other FTE members and it seems like there OD is 1.85~. I'm thinking no matter which one I go with id have to seek the help of a local machine shop. As a side note, I have shopped around locally with some machine shops that fab aluminum parts for Boeing but they seem to think I'm not worth their time as they haven't got back to me.
A couple of them I visited were fairly small Mom n Pop type places that I thought would be eager to have my business. No luck there. I guess I'll hit up my local NAPA machine shop and see if they can turn a bushing down for me.

 

Thank you for that write up....lots of good info there and it helps with my dilemma. I have a pilot bearing that I got with my 390 clutch kit. It measures 1.378 and fits into the small step of the crank. ID is .670...fits perfectly on the input shaft.
Hoping the input shaft is long enough to reach the bearing.

Bearing isn't fully seated in the inner step here...I just tapped it in for the pic. If I seat the bearing I'm estimating that it will not be flush with the outer surface and be further in by ~.215

 

If you are going to use the deeper step in the crank, you need to mock up the parts as they are assembled to find how far out the pilot tip extends into the crank drilling when the bell is bolted to the spacer plate and block and if the brg will support the pilot tip or not.

With enough measuring you should be able to do this without seating the bearing in first.

I would choose a brg over a bushing any day of the week for this application.

 

THank you for the invaluable advice. I'd rather use the bearing vs the bushing so I'm going to try and mock it up to see how it goes.

 

I used my bench grinder and took off a couple thou....she fits real nice but now I'm wondering if I should have chamfered the inside edge.

 

From the last photo it looks like the pilot bushing is seated in the outer step. Based upon my experience with our respective parts I don't think that will work. I believe the splined section of the transmission's input shaft will contact the bushing well before the transmission is tight against the bell housing.

Scott's measurements are:
Distance from rear face of bell housing to rear of pilot bushing: 5 3/4".
Distance from rear of bell housing to bottom of crankshaft counter bore: 6 3/4"
Distance from transmission front that contacts the bell housing to end of input shaft splines: just under 5 3/4"

I realize you prefer the concept of a pilot bearing as opposed to a pilot bushing made from oilite bronze, however from the photo you posted it looks like the bearing has a flange at the front that would locate on the crankshaft's inner step. That may hold the bearing proud just a bit and you may not have adequate clearance between the bearing and the input shaft splines.

I suggest you take some very careful measurements before you are trying to bolt everything together in your truck. It's always discouraging to be that far along and then discover something doesn't fit. Sadly, I have first-hand experience with that last sentence...

 

Ok. I had a flash of brilliance concerning grinding down the oilite bushing....I figured it was worth a shot just to see if I could do it. The bushing was cheap. Still have a good bearing to fall back on. I was afraid that it would be sticking out too far as the old bushing I pulled out was sitting further in the outer step and more flush with the back of the crank. Won't get back to it for a few days. I get to help my step daughter move out of her apt today.

 

May or may not help - I put a 90 previously EFI 460 into one of my 79 Broncos w/NP435. Used L&L flywheel/clutch kit which contained a 302 pilot bearing which fit the second (deeper) step of the crank. It is my understanding early 460/429 engines don't have the deeper second step, wasn't an issue with the later engine. I also had to open up center hole on the 351M/400 manual trans block plate to clear crank flange.

 

Mine has an inner and outer step. Block is a D1VE. I bought a new block plate from JBG...fits like a glove. Thanks for sharing the info of your build.

 

Hey 795150400M!

What resolution did you come up with the Pilot Bearing? I have a 1971-73 Lincoln 460 that I mating with a ZF5 Transmission. Did the outer bearing work? Or did you have to go to the inner bearing. I am ready to find a machine shop that can shave down the outer bearing. Dropping into a 1969 F100 2WD.

 

When I tried to mate up the engine to the transmission....it was about 1/16th inch shy of fully sucking up...so out the engine came, ditched the oilite bearing and used the slightly smaller (in depth) roller bearing that came with the clutch kit I bought. Don't have any part numbers as I finished the project a year ago. Best I can do is dig into my toolbox and try to find the receipt for the clutch kit.

Pic of the pilot bearing and how it's installed in the flywheel. It's a 390 flywheel.

 

Thanks for the info. I will switch to looking/focusing on the inner roller bearing. The truck was running 23 years ago, clutch disk burned out. When I got it apart there was no pilot bearing installed. May have been a factor in the clutch disk wearing out quicker on top of the abuse I gave it. The truck was originally a local government truck and I have deduced it was a F100 super duty. It has a Dana 60 Semi-float, with 5 lugs and is possi. I had it rebuilt instead of getting a modern junk yard rear axle. I think I found it at Summit "Dorman Clutch Pilot Bushing and Bearings 14677", Summitt Part #RNB-14677, with a 1.378' OD.

 

That’s an interesting truck. Have you ever posted up the GVWR information?

 

The Vin. The first part reads F10YKD46610

 

Pre-Tear Down

Current State

Block Casting #

Some fun pictures. I have had this truck for 25 years. Mothballed for 23. Was going to do a full restore back in the day. Now I am going to get back together and keep the Patina as a sleeper.