Can anyone give me information for new 12v temp sending units and all parts needed to buy and best IGN coil to switch over to 12v

 

I generally find refreshing your existing 6V system is more cost effective than a 12V conversion and just as reliable. First, 12 being a higher number than 6 doesn't make it "better". The engineers knew what they were doing and many of the 12V conversion "success stories" using fresh parts would have been as successful and reliable if done as a stock 6V system as well. First ask your self, why convert?

Secondly, there is no such thing as a "12V sending units" for the temp, fuel, and oil pressure. Not knowing your specific model, it is likely your stock setup is made up of KS type senders and gauges that DO NOT OPERATE and on the common ohm/resistance model you will encounter. The stock sending unit uses the The King-Seeley (Ford Stock) principle. These sending units supply a full 6V through the heater wire in the gauge in the form of a square wave with the duration of the "on" being the variable determining the gauge reading. The longer the duration, the more fuel in the tank. It is this full 6v of current which heats the bi-metallic strip in the stock gauge that causes the gauge to read via a small gear train (that may adjustable?). Most after market sending units are simply a variable resistor which sends a constant voltage to the gauge, lessening that voltage as the fuel level goes down. Therefore, the sending units signal doesn't heat the bimetallic strip in the gauge as much. Unfortunately, the calibration of the after-market sending units and the stock gauges don't match up very well due to the differences in the principle of the signal. I have seen many nice stock KS gauges get their internals damaged by application of 12V. A proper voltage reducer will allow use of stock gauges and sending units.

Now, as for a "best" coil recommendation, it depends upon your other ignition upgrades... going electronic ignition? Which kit?

Look, tall boy, bottom line from a guy who has many many many fords, 6V ones at that - The Group 1 6V batteries are readily available from the auto parts stores, tractor supply stores and similar, bulbs readily available form online suppliers (and even some local auto parts stores). A well maintained 6V system is just as good as a well maintained 12V system. I feel that those who boast "performance improvements" with their new 12V systems with new battery, charging apparatuses, new wires etc are comparing to a rundown 6V system. The 6V system would have the same improvements if all the same items were refreshed (and probably for a little less $$$ too)...

If you really want to convert to 12V system, it is very possible and has been done, but the first question would by why - what are your goals in doing so - you may just not need to?

 

You didn't mention the truck you are making these changes on, but there many different manufactures who offer stock looking more modernized, electronic gauges. Check out LMC, Mid-Fifty and others. Look also at complete dash cluster gauge sets that will fit right into your current original gauge opening. The ones made by Dakota Digital are really cool, and there are others.
As far as a coil recommendation, tell us about your engine. Are you keeping points? Or going electronic? Does your engine use a load-o-matic distributor?

 

bmoran4 is correct about the 6 volt system working as designed. I kept mine 6 volts until I decided to add A/C. It worked great.

I kept all my stock gauges and used a voltage reducer to do so. I kept my 6 volt wiper motor but I did change the motor in my heater to a 12 volt unit.

I use a Bosch blue coil but I'm still running points. If you decide to run electronic ignition you may need a different coil.

I posted up my 12 volt conversion with pics and part numbers for my 52 F3. You didn't mention the year of your truck.

 

Yea sorry it's a 51 f3 I inherited it from my grandfather who started conversion I'm just going through trying to give it a makeover honestly it still has 239 flat v8 motor

 

It is going to be difficult to finish the job if you don't know what was done with what.... The helpful folks above have asked for pointed details to better guide you that have been left unanswered.


Edit: I did not intend to come across as "Salty" - tone can be hard to do through the computer. I just wanted to make it clear that the best most frustration free guidance comes from a good understanding of what is being worked with to the component and vendor levels if possible.

 

I understand these are frustrating questions for forum members, but I think we can a bit more patient with someone who is trying to make sense of a project he inherited from his grandfather. Not sure why we are being so salty here, but that's a good way for him to say "screw it" and ditch the truck instead of getting it back on the road.

@87tallboy can you tell us if you've mapped out the wiring currently in the truck? I really think you may need to "start fresh" here. Get a GOOD wiring diagram and trace what you have that is different than what's on there. It will take time, but it will save you many headaches. I have kept a 6V system on my all-stock 1950 F1 and updated wiring, battery cables, and connectors. With 6V, those are the most important things. Corrosion free, proper gauge wiring (ESPECIALLY battery cables), and not too many accessories added, if at all. I've also done 12V conversions on old Volvos, but it is a lot of time, rewiring, and new components (alternator, different gauges or voltage reducers, all new bulbs, etc.). I have determined later in life that is wasn't worth it. Long story long...do some soul searching on this.

Here are the issues we should address to determine which direction to go:
1) How far along the conversion was grandpa?
2) Do you still have the old 6V components? Whether or not they work will be determined as you wire things up.
3) Have you compared current wiring to a reliable wiring diagram?
4) How much to you want to spend on this?
5) Any performance modifications or accessories you see adding to the truck in the future?

This site is a great one-stop shop for 12V conversion stuff. They may not have everything you need, but they have excellent info there, and can even provide a "report" on what you might need for your setup. BUT....all of this hinges on HONESTLY answering the questions above.
Vintage Auto Garage - Ford Truck 12V conversion

 

I also say keep it 6 volt. Both my trucks are still 6 volt. You need double ott thick cables, positive to frame, negative to solenoid and solenoid to starter. But your problem is how far did Grandpa get?

 

Here's what I did to my 52 F3. My wiring harness is a stock replacement because the factory one was falling apart. I think your truck IF ORIGINAL, has a different starter button. Mine is two wire. I think yours is one wire and grounds to the dash?? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-numbers.html

Like I said. I had kept it 6 volt for a while. When I went 12 volt I wanted it to still look close to original and I like the look of the generator. If yours has an alternator or other changes my conversion will not apply. Maybe some of the info will help though. Good luck with your project.
Scott

 

Scott makes a good point. If your truck has an alternator, your grandpa made some headway. Another thing to check are the headlights. Are they labeled 6 or 12 volt? Or check the bulbs in your tail lights. Is the battery still in your truck? Is it 6 or 12 volt.

I replaced the stock wiring harness in my 54 with a reproduced original style I bought from Mid Fifty.

 

The alternator isn't always a good indicator for 12V conversion progress. The old Volvo I converted had an alternator conversion when I bought it but was still 6V.

As abe noted, battery will tell what the current system is.

I guess the better question is....was the truck running at all when you got it, or was it a mess of wires?

 

Hi Tallboy!

Here is a link that will take you to a thread over on the HAMB that talks about 6 volt ignition coils, ballast resistor sizes, and total circuit current thru the points. Its a good thread.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-10914433

 

Yes the truck still runs and drives, it has a 12v battery he installed an alternator has 12v electric fuel pump but I took it out and hooked the original fuel pump don't know if it works head lights are 12v I think has led lights for brake lights and has trailer led lights put in for turn signals. I still have the generator, the generator voltage reducer, the 12v volta_a_drop. The wiring was done all in red wire, wires were not hook up properly so I have pulled all wires to start from scratch, but can't find a good diagram so just been going one thing at a time. And for the starter button idk much about it 1 wire goes to ignition and other wire idk so I pulled it out bought new ignition to run off just the key. And I'm sorry I got so many questions I'm 30yrs old don't really understand anything from that time period found you guys and had my daughter help me set up this account. I don't understand technology very well because I was subject to the life of crime at a young age so never had the opportunity to learn all this phone and computer stuff so I can only check for your reply when she is home to get me here. I have every intention on getting this truck back to road worthy it's something I'm using as a father daughter time so when time is right I can pass it down to her. So we both thank everyone for all your info it is greatly appreciated

 

Really the only thing I'm wanting to install that's is not from the 50s is I have a stereo that I'd like to install and find some newer rims and tires to put on to get off of these old split rims everyone keeps telling me they are dangerous but that could also be because real boys and men were made back in the day, today we have a lot of scared boys running around with their heads cut off lol but honestly that's all I'm really looking to add to truck

 

the 12v is going to power a pair of true stereo speakers and give you quicker starts. However, I have 6v truck and have a modern radio with the ability to charge my phone, radio is converted out of the old tube type. It runs a single speaker quite well. It’s loud and sounds appropriate to the truck, like an old radio. System was previously set up to do stereo from a single speaker. It sounded better but wasn’t very loud. I like the non stereo loudness over the quality stereo sound in this application. If that makes sense? Personally I saw no or see no reason to convert to 12v. I have a heater, a radio with Bluetooth and a lot of lights and accessories all running off the original 6v pos. ground system.
heres a link to the radio explains the operation and features; https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XrqcGVncRJA&feature=youtu.be