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Well we followed this issue slightly down another thread that I let die out by mistake.
I have an 02 7.3 343,xxx with the superchips obdII tuner, currently tuned on stock mode. Should be noted i bought this truck in a warm climate and moved it to a very cold climate. Texas to N. Idaho. I have the bafx products obdII port scanner along with car scanner pro, and torque pro. Both give similar to exact readings of all data that I have monitored.
When I first bought the truck 2 years ago it had code p1316, but absolutely NO notible issues or lack of power in any way, fast forward about 100k miles the pick up is starting to smoke a bit more, grey smoke on startup, figured injectors were getting tired. Now i have a slightly hard start, will start but takes a bit extra time on the crank and will romp a bit on first start of the day, black smoke mixed with grey on the romps. fast foward a couple more days and i notice almost a "miss' when getting on it at all even just slightly, little muffled pop pop pop is the only way i can really think to explain it.truck is idling pretty much normally ipr% is pretty low, new icp and pigtail oem parts. NOW i have an inconsistent cylinders throwing high to low side open codes, one day ill test it it will be 1, 3 , 7, so i figure okay its passenger bank great, next day i get 1, 4 , 8 , 5 , than the next day another random bunch, I really need to get this truck running right again, any help would be greatly appreciated
The P1316 is the clue in this. I would start by at least checking, but most likely replacing both valve cover gaskets and UVCHs. You can start by checking resistance for each injector at the outside of the valve cover gasket connection, but pulling the valve covers for a visual is probably in your future.
So i'm dumb and this shouldve been added, I within the last 6 months replaced both uvch and harnesses, because one of them came unplugged. So they are both new dorman parts, Just 2 weeks ago i was under there for glow plugs (oem replacements) and inspected harnesses and everything was proper, visually have inspected 40 pin harness for chafing and wear, nothing, all is well. Currently I am pulling drivers side fender to access IDM
My original suggestion still stands. I've seen bad Dorman ones right out of the box. Your truck wasn't made in China so Chinese parts are never a good idea. The OEM are more money for a reason. They just work.
Check compression then replace those Dorman gaskets and factory injectors. OEM and aftermarket QC has taken a huge hit post COVID.
Can your company re build my injectors? I'm essentially positive that they are the issue after speaking with a couple different 7.3 mechanics.
And actually my mistake they are motocraft, i just went and pulled the box out from when i did the job, i put my stock ones in the box under the back seat just in case.
Tyler, i second what duck fan said. Your problem can be the uvch…or the harness//pigtail can have burnt connections. We have all seen this w a extension cord. A loose connection can burn contact points and even when connected properly may still work poorly if at all. A quick search on this site will show you how to do this simple test. If you don’t find it I can post a photo showing how to set your meter and what points to probe. You can test both sides in 10 minutes.
Both sides ohm consistently and UVCH on both sides looks great, as new as they did a few months ago. New Injectors are going to be here this evening. When doing the injectors, is it just a pop them in kind of deal? anything i need to be aware of, do i need to remove the glow plugs as well to vent the oil in the bore? or can they stay in?
I followed either guzzles directions or Oregon diesels the first time i did mine. Make sure you oil the orings on the new set. You can pop them in by hand and with the palm of your hand give them a rap. Then i use a 5/8 wrench to press them in. I saw this method in a diesel tech ron video. Torque to spec.
To purge the cylinders remove glow plugs, replace valve covers w 3 bolts and i let the starter crank the motor over. Make sure you disconnect the 42 pin connector or the cps before spinning the starter. This will clear the cylinders. Reinstall glow plugs, and harness. Then purge air from hpo system. Next reconnect 42pin or cps. Finally Id recommended a buzz test after all wiring and valve covers are reinstalled to ensure nothing is disturbed. After all the above you can button it up. good luck brother.
Doing the injectors right now, ended up getting a pretty good deal on a reman'd full force set. I'm in the process of getting them done right now when i have encountered a new problem. One of the oil galley plugs that is UVC is stripped, I cant seem to get it out, tried a square EZ out to no avail. Anyone else dealt with this or have any clues to try to get it out, this definitely puts a damper on things.
UPDATE New injectors are in and have been for about a week now. p1316 is gone entirely. Chalked it up to mechanical failure in one of the injectors. No more misfires at all the engine sounds amazing. However i do still have an issue with blue smoke. I do have blowby but its BARELY enough to move the cap on the oil fill, i do still have an ebpv code but that is it. Truck builds boost perfectly, there is a pretty excessive amount of oil in the intercooler exhaust pipe, not a ton in the intake. Turbo wheel has 0 play in any direction. At idle the IPR Duty Cycle % will hop between 5-7% favoring about 5.8% Occasionally bumping a bit lower than that, to somewhere in the 4% range. EBP is always higher than MAP by a good amount, I am unsure of what is acceptable. KOEO MAP is about 1 PSI more than EBP. SO.... What I am thinking at this point is internal seals on my turbo, IPR valve, CCV mod with a catch can, and potentially a EBPV delete. I really need to get this smoke taken care of, I'm going through a pretty good amount of oil and I HATE feeling like I'm abusing my pickup. Any ideas/help/suggestions are INCREDIBLY appreciated. THANK YOU!
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