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Removing old running boards and one of the studs no longer held and I had to cut it off. I’m going to put on some new AMP boards so I’m figured I would run a grade 8 bolt as a replacement.
anyone run through this and has good tips it would be appreciated. Stripped from body Undamaged for comparison
If its still on there I would try and clamp some cheap harbor freight needle nose vise-grips on it. ground down to fit if necessary.
If memory serves, other threads say there is no good easy replacement. some mention “nut-serts”.
good luck. keep us posted on solution.
maybe a nut placed inside body and then threaded rod fed in with red death loctite on it. let it cure and gingerly tighten outer nut on running board bracket.
maybe antiseize that and remaining studs if you dont want to spin one again.
I tried the needle nose locking pliers and no luck at all. The head of the stud just kept rounding off … even with a two handed death grip setting.
I got some metric 10.9 in various lengths and will run the nut into the channel and bolt it down.
Thinking about using a small strip of 3M to dampen and hold the bracket …
The fix was as expected … had to cut off and drill out the broken stud. Got a couple of hardened metric bolts and after fermi I got the correct length I installed using the appropriate amount of permatex red. See photos Correct length - can’t get a lock washer pn Red death Finished
I didn’t. I used a coated M8 grade with liberal dose of 3-36 anti-corrosion for steel and aluminum. I will maintain a regular maintenance schedule for checking the area and application of 3-36.
the fix I used for a broken body stud was the same fix that my local Ford dealer would have done. The broken stud was steel per the dealership. They see this more and more on newer trucks.
if you’re bolting up to the body studs I recommend a good anti corrosion product as you bolt down to prevent seizing.
Six months in the salt belt. In that location, stainless steel, salt spray and aluminum are a bad combination. Fasteners in that location should be black oxide coated to prevent galvanic reactions.
Six months in the salt belt. In that location, stainless steel, salt spray and aluminum are a bad combination. Fasteners in that location should be black oxide coated to prevent galvanic reactions.
2020 F350 fuel tank, Chicago based truck. Just took these.
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