Pertronix ignition coil question
C4TZ-9350-B
The original part number is C4TZ-9350-B, but it sounds like the previous owner has installed an inline fuel filter and possibly even a 223 fuel pump. The camshaft in the 223 spins in the opposite direction as the 262, but that might not matter to the fuel pump.
Airtex 4208 1964 Ford F100 223
C4TZ-9350-B
The original part number is C4TZ-9350-B, but it sounds like the previous owner has installed an inline fuel filter and possibly even a 223 fuel pump. The camshaft in the 223 spins in the opposite direction as the 262, but that might not matter to the fuel pump.
Airtex 4208 1964 Ford F100 223
Heavy-duty 262 with fuel pump mounted to timing cover.
The light-duty 262 version for 1964 moved the fuel pump location to the side of the block like the 223.
1964 light-duty 262 with fuel pump mounted to side of block.
More light-duty 262 changes for 1964...
Heavy-duty 262 with fuel pump mounted to timing cover.
The light-duty 262 version for 1964 moved the fuel pump location to the side of the block like the 223.
1964 light-duty 262 with fuel pump mounted to side of block.
More light-duty 262 changes for 1964...
Here is a pump I found on ebay I think might work although its a very expensive guess and it would be nice to know if it's going to fit for sure before I buy it.
I would add I think you're getting your Wagon in Front your Mule!
I would re-install the original fuel pump back on the engine. Install a pressure gauge between the carb & pump. Then install a vacuum gauge between the pump & tank. You need to KNOW the Restriction & Pressure Values of the fuel supply system BEFORE you start Throwing Parts at the engine.
The pump should show you 2-4 PSI on the delivery side. It should show Less Than 5" of Restriction on the Suction side. If more, it has a blockage. If None, then it's sucking air. At the very Least Bottle feed the Pump & take the Tank & lines outta the equation & see if that changes the delivery pressure.
You may have to plumb these gauges where you can see them while you're driving your truck, like maybe remove the hood so they are visible at the speed the problem manifests itself.
On the ign side be sure you are getting a Full 6-8 volts @ the speed the problem is occurring. If you don't have an external resister then you should have a resistance wire. If your using a resistance wire & an internally resisted coil things are Haywire.
Also take your timing light & VERIFY that the Vacuum & Centrifugal Advance is operative. I would check Manifold Vacuum @ Idle & make sure there is no fluctuation in the reading. Was the Valve Lash Adjusted @ the last tune up?
You can adapt a Duraspark 300 distributor to your engine. The body is .060" or so bigger than the hole so it needs to be machined down some. You can run Any type ign with the distributor. A GM HEI Module will have Much Better spark curves than a Duraspark module. And the oil pump drive is 5/16" where yours is 1/4". You can machine the 300 pump drive to 1/4" on one end. I remember using a pump from an early 60s 223 that had a 5/16" drive that we got someplace, Bell Auto Parts in Pascagoula Ms I think. We had a 262 in a '59 Ford Wagon Chassis w/ a Fairlane body dirt tracker. Man that's been 50 yrs ago now
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