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Sitting on level ground, what are the angles in degrees on the tail shaft yoke and differential yoke, and the incline angle of the driveshaft?
The differential yoke should be around 2-3 deg less than the tail shaft angle to allow for acceleration wrap. It sounds like the diff yoke may be down too much.
Sitting on level ground, what are the angles in degrees on the tail shaft yoke and differential yoke, and the incline angle of the driveshaft?
The differential yoke should be around 2-3 deg less than the tail shaft angle to allow for acceleration wrap. It sounds like the diff yoke may be down too much.
Transfer case is 4.1° down, diff is 2.6° up.
Driveline 12 degrees
To add, ive tried 2, 4, and 8 degree shims so far.
If your DS angle is 12* then your differential should be 2 or 3 degrees less, so 9 or 10 degrees on the diff would be good.
For a single piece driveshaft with no CV/Cardan??
Don't the pinion and transfer case need to be as close to parallel as possible?
I haven't measured every time, but trying from zero-8° shims, zero and 8 we're by far the worst. Zero would have brought the pinion angle up even more, I'm guessing a 10ish degree angle. The 8 degree shims brought it to a 1 degree angle.
That's why I'm looking for some angles from someone's truck...
Maybe I need to invest in a new driveline with CV joint if I want to keep the lift?
If your DS angle is 12* then your differential should be 2 or 3 degrees less, so 9 or 10 degrees on the diff would be good.
Yeah no, not on a non-CV driveline. He's got like 8 degrees compound angle at the T-case and 9.4 at the axle, that's well within the U-joints acceptable working angles. Additionally his difference of 1.4 degrees between the t-case and pinion angles is IIRC darn near perfect according to Dana's manual. He should absolutely NOT tilt his diff up to 9-10 degrees as under load that will put his pinion inline with the driveshaft while still leaving the t-case's single U-joint at about 7 degrees compound angle, now that will defo make things vibrate at high speed.
4" is pretty standard tbh, you shouldn't be having these issues at such relatively low altitude.
Didn't you already have your driveshaft balanced tho? Also what brand were the new U-joints? I've had nothing but trouble with MOOGs for instance their retaining clips have always been a tad too thick and too install them as is would take forcing the cups so hard against the cross it would try to lock up the whole joint. Exactky zero issues with any and all Spicers tho.
4" is pretty standard tbh, you shouldn't be having these issues at such relatively low altitude.
Didn't you already have your driveshaft balanced tho? Also what brand were the new U-joints? I've had nothing but trouble with MOOGs for instance their retaining clips have always been a tad too thick and too install them as is would take forcing the cups so hard against the cross it would try to lock up the whole joint. Exactky zero issues with any and all Spicers tho.
I have not balanced driveshaft, typo in the first post.
I installed spicer joints. I dropped one of the cups and had to manually reinstall all the needle bearings during install. Figure I'll just get a new one.
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