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Got a 1992 f-150 XLT lariat with 95,000 original miles 5.0. . My Uncle has removed the rear tank and I have been trying to get it to run right off the front tank only. It does good until it gets warm. Smog deleted and I am wondering if I will ever get it to run right without the rear tank back on it ? I appreciate all info. I have a Haynes book on it and it has had a lot of new parts put on it. . I want to be sure about the rear tank not being on it and go from there. Lifelong Ford guy. 1st Ride was a 84 Ranger. No AC but it was a good one. I bought a 94 SPLASH vibrant Red off the lot and other than the 5 speed i wish I had never gotten rid of it. 2.3 engine 8 spark plugs. Awesome ride. I've owned another 94 ranger and it was a great truck. Now I'm interested in the rear tank removal on my 92 f150 . Can I get it straightened out without it? .
Hi ***** G, I can get to Blue Mountain without a map, but Blue Springs is drawing a blank.
None-the-less welcome.
I've never personally done a tank delete, but hopefully somebody can give details.
I know that the usually method involves making up plugs to fit the factory quick connects with either cut down bolts (to the smooth part of shank) or welded up/crimped filter connectors or JY pieces.
If you plan on keeping this thing, my biggest recommendation is invest in one of these for under $30.
Resist the urge to shotgun parts at it.
Next, pull your computer, record the label & open it up to inspect for leaking capacitors, burned traces, or components.
Post your calibration number off the door jamb & hopefully somebody will confirm your ecu is correct.
Hi ***** G, I can get to Blue Mountain without a map, but Blue Springs is drawing a blank.
None-the-less welcome.
I've never personally done a tank delete, but hopefully somebody can give details.
I know that the usually method involves making up plugs to fit the factory quick connects with either cut down bolts (to the smooth part of shank) or welded up/crimped filter connectors or JY pieces.
If you plan on keeping this thing, my biggest recommendation is invest in one of these for under $30.
Resist the urge to shotgun parts at it.
Next, pull your computer, record the label & open it up to inspect for leaking capacitors, burned traces, or components.
Post your calibration number off the door jamb & hopefully somebody will confirm your ecu is correct.
Then start shopping around for a spare.
Good luck & welcome again.
Thanks.. I have been thinking about the box and capacitors.
