ball joints already?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 58
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From: Littleton, CO
ball joints already?
I have a 2000 F250 SD SC PSD LB with 42k and a squeek while turning. At first I assumed bj's but there was no sign of grease leakage and no play when I unloaded them. I sprayed them and the pitman @ gear box and noise went away. A month later after a hunting trip the noise came back, so I sprayed them again. Now the noise is gone but now they are klunking and there is 1/2" play at the wheel. should I go with OE or aftermarket? How difficult is replacement?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 150
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From: Kentucky,The Horse Capita
They will wear out even before then thanks to no grease fittings on the lower and upper ball joints
. THANKS AGAIN FORD 
My 2000 SD CC PSD did the same. I would use MOOG ball joints with the zerk fittings. But make sure the upper ball joint fitting is a right angle type to miss the axle asssembly. I install a cap on my upper ball joints and when ready to grease I install the fitting. I grease mine every other oil change. Some others here may offer a better opinion. But this works for me. The difficulty in changing ball joints is having the right tools and alot of time. they can be difficult to break loose and you still have to take the truck to have the front end aligned after you install them.
I have changed them before on another truck but decided to let someone I trust do them this time. My cost including the MOOG ball joints was around $ 700.00. Most of which was labor.
Hope this helps!!
" Ford trucks ROCK, not like a rock"
. THANKS AGAIN FORD My 2000 SD CC PSD did the same. I would use MOOG ball joints with the zerk fittings. But make sure the upper ball joint fitting is a right angle type to miss the axle asssembly. I install a cap on my upper ball joints and when ready to grease I install the fitting. I grease mine every other oil change. Some others here may offer a better opinion. But this works for me. The difficulty in changing ball joints is having the right tools and alot of time. they can be difficult to break loose and you still have to take the truck to have the front end aligned after you install them.
I have changed them before on another truck but decided to let someone I trust do them this time. My cost including the MOOG ball joints was around $ 700.00. Most of which was labor.
Hope this helps!!
" Ford trucks ROCK, not like a rock"
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 58
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From: Littleton, CO
Thanks for the info. Finding a good front end guy will be my next concern. I work out of my truck and can't afford down time, and most dealers won't install aftermarket parts. I wonder if you could drill (carefully) and tap OE bj's and install zerks????
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Most dealers know that the oem ball joints aren't as good as the moog units you shouldn't have trouble at all if they are up on this..I think I paid $39 for the upper and $49 for the lower somewhere around that and got them at a car quest run place..
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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Guys, there isa grease fitting that you screw in the grease gun that is really thin and has a point like a needle which you push into the ball joint boot and you can grease the ball joints, when you pull it out the hole is so tiny that no grease will come out of the boot, I need to go and do a search to see were I can buy it.
Edgar
Edgar
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New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 23
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From: Massachusetts
I picked up a needle greaser at AutoZone. You can order them there if they don't have them in stock. The problem with greasing with the needle is that they don't really blow all of the crap out of the wear surfaces, but it is better than dry.
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Guys, Greasing the ball joints that way won't work. The grease has to go into the actual ball and socket of the joint itself. You might get some grease down in there but I think all you will do is put a hole in the water resistent boot.
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 23
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From: Massachusetts
I wouldn't needle a joint with 2K miles on it, but it couldn't hurt an old one that is creaky and bone dry. You can clean the boot with brake cleaner and a rag after you needle it and smear a gob of RTV on it to keep the water out.