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My 2000 F250 has an intermittent lateral shift and wobble in the front end. I have replaced everything in the front end but the track bar. I figured I would do that next since the issue lines up, it's less than $150 from Napa and my truck has 265K miles. My question is how are people torquing the mounting bolts? The spec is 369 ft/lbs! Who has a wrench that goes that high? They are hard to find even if you are willing to spend hundreds of dollars and I have my doubts that a shop would torque it that high. Are people just torquing it as tight as they can and calling it good? Any help would be appreciated!
I replaced mine with an adjustable unit (ARB) when I installed my lift springs. Yes, I used a 3/4" drive 4ft breaker bar to loosen as well as tighten. I have a cheap 3/4" drive torque wrench that goes up to 350ft-lbs but I couldn't get that high without adding a pipe at the end anyway.
Either use an Impact gun, most of them have well over 300 ft lbs, or a high quality breaker bar with a long pipe and an impact socket. Or tighten as tight as you can with what you have and take it to a garage for them to hit it with the impact.
Thanks Speedfreak78 and Bajaphile! I pulled the paperwork on my electric impact wrench and it goes to 350ft//lbs. That and a cheater bar should allow me to get it torques in the ballpark. I plan to mark the bolt so I can monitor it for movement moving forward. I'll update on how it goes this week.
update - This turned out to be a pretty easy job. A couple of tips:
1. penetrating oil is your friend. Soak the bolts prior to trying to remove them. I couldn't budge them until I let them soak for a few minutes.
2. have a strong racket strap or come-a-long handy. I didn't think the axle shifted but it did. If the track bar is too short attach from the axle on the passenger side to the frame on the driver's side. If you pull the other way it will shift the wrong direction. That was my experience anyway.
3. A lot of the posts I read said you have to remove the drag link to get the track bar off. I didn't have to so I'd try first before you waste your time removing parts your don't have to.
I know the adjustment occurs in the middle with the two way threaded sleeve, but I see a lot of trackbars offered have these extra brackets near the ends.
update - This turned out to be a pretty easy job. A couple of tips:
1. penetrating oil is your friend. Soak the bolts prior to trying to remove them. I couldn't budge them until I let them soak for a few minutes.
2. have a strong racket strap or come-a-long handy. I didn't think the axle shifted but it did. If the track bar is too short attach from the axle on the passenger side to the frame on the driver's side. If you pull the other way it will shift the wrong direction. That was my experience anyway.
3. A lot of the posts I read said you have to remove the drag link to get the track bar off. I didn't have to so I'd try first before you waste your time removing parts your don't have to.
ditto on the strap idea.
how did you determine if any adjust were needed to re-center the axle using the adjust feature of the track bar.
I know the adjustment occurs in the middle with the two way threaded sleeve, but I see a lot of trackbars offered have these extra brackets near the ends.
The "brackets" are the locks for the adjustment sleeve. They slide over the sleeve to hold it in place similar to the drop link adjustment.
Getting the track bar lined up with a fixed length was a little bit of a bear. I'm not sure what the best way would be to get the axle centered so you can get the track bar length set. Thoughts?
My disclaimer is that I have not installed an adjustable track bar before. Thinking about it, it seems important to try and limit lateral movement while you remove the old one and install the new one. If you are just replacing the track bar (not putting in an lift or total front end rebuild) then I think I would put a ratchet strap or two on the truck prior to removing the old track bar. this should help keep it in place and prevent lateral movement. Then all you have to do is adjust the bar to the right length and put the bolts in. If you are installing a lift all I can think to do is created some kind of reference point on both sides and adjust to those. Dropping plum lines off the fenders or something so you can center the axle should do the trick.
The "brackets" are the locks for the adjustment sleeve. They slide over the sleeve to hold it in place similar to the drop link adjustment.
Getting the track bar lined up with a fixed length was a little bit of a bear. I'm not sure what the best way would be to get the axle centered so you can get the track bar length set. Thoughts?
There's a couple ways.
Use 2 plumb bobs, or tie something heavy on to a couple strings. Hang them so the string is running down the outside of the frame, as close to the axle tube center line as possible. Measure from each string out to a common point, like the ball joint or dust shield and make them even. You can also hang the plumb bobs down the outside of each fender and measure in to the wheel lip or rotor, but then you're centering to the body and not the chassis, which can cause crab walking if the body is way off.
Use 1 plumb bob. Measure your frame width and hang the plumb bob in the middle, measure out to a common point.
Disconnect your drag link,track bar and lower shock mounts. Assuming your springs and bushings are good, the truck should center itself over the axle if you bounce or shake it a few times.
If you need to persuade it one way or another, a ratchet strap is the easiest way to shift things around. Once you get it where you want it, it holds it there until you get the bar adjusted and installed.
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