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I purchased a replacement cab for my 52 F1. Five of the six bolts (screws) which hold the door
hinge to the cab were twisted off on the bottom hinge on both sides. I’m looking for suggestions on how to remove the broken screws or do you have to drill them out and retap the threads? If I do drill out and retap, is there and oversize screw available? I can tell the metal portion which the screws go into is a separate piece which moves around but I don’t think I can get behind the cab pillar to remove. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Those can be a real pain. I had one break off also. I cleaned up the threads on the back the best I could with a dremel brush and then welded a nut on the broken off bolt on the front and it came right out.
Replacements are available. The NORS bolts are long enough to put a nut on the back also.
Actually, those plates are removeable. You can access the inside of the post, bend the retainer tabs out of the way are remove the plate. Then you can decide if you want to attempt removing the broken bolt remnants, or just make a new plate, drilling and tapping holes like the original.
What I found that happens is even if you can free up the bolts, there is a build up of rust and crud on the exposed end of the bolt inside the post, sticking out of the other side of the plate, which effectively makes the bolt end bigger or swollen. As you remove the bolt, the fat end gets stuck in the plate and the head snaps off. If you remove the plate, you may be able to run the bolts back in and through, and turn them out the back side.
Actually, those plates are removeable. You can access the inside of the post, bend the retainer tabs out of the way are remove the plate. Then you can decide if you want to attempt removing the broken bolt remnants, or just make a new plate, drilling and tapping holes like the original.
What I found that happens is even if you can free up the bolts, there is a build up of rust and crud on the exposed end of the bolt inside the post, sticking out of the other side of the plate, which effectively makes the bolt end bigger or swollen. As you remove the bolt, the fat end gets stuck in the plate and the head snaps off. If you remove the plate, you may be able to run the bolts back in and through, and turn them out the back side.
I was able to remove the broken bolt out of the back on all but one. The last one I drilled slightly undersized and was able to chisel out the rest and retap.
I think I would like to remove the plates to work on them and clean them up. Are the tabs that hold them in place welded or are the just shaped to hold the plates in place?
Thanks to all for your replies and sharing your knowledge! I appreciate ya
Once you get the mounting plate off, and if you have a powerful enough welder, you can stack weld a nut on there, you can even use a bigger nut and really fill the center with weld. I had to do that to mine. they came out quite easily after that. The heat from the welder helped a lot.
