This site sucks, have to retype this because I had to log in again before posting and lost it all.......... Anyway.

Hello there!
Recently I had a fuel leak fixed. Had the Fuel pump, injector lines, and fuel filter replaced. Since then my engine has started to choke a bit. Especially noticeable over bumps and rough road. It's even stalled out a couple times leaving me stranded only to come back the next day and it starts and drives fine(ish). At first I thought a funny electrical connection but apparently I don't have an electric fuel pump? I can't find much info online and don't have the Diesel Supplemental owners manual thing so I am not sure how exactly my fuel system works.

I tried contacting my mechanic but they cant get to it for a couple weeks. Problem is I'm moving out of state much sooner and I'm stuck here with an unreliable vehicle. Unless I want to risk getting stuck a thousand miles from anything.

Any ideas or info helps! Thanks,
Hans and The Vanbulance

The culprit. P.S. I live out of my van here.

 

Maybe check the fuel line where it connects to the lift pump (the lower fuel pump, not the one on the top of the engine). Maybe the line is too short or twisted and is getting pinched on the bumps and starving the engine a bit? Do you see the fuel filter light come on at all?

Actually on that note, which fuel pump was replaced? the lower lift pump? or the injection pump? I could see a wiring issue with the fuel shutoff solenoid causing an intermittent problem going over bumps. So check those wires as well.

 

The lifter pump was replaced. The fuel filter light came on when it stalled but not during normal chokage. Nothing else happens when I hit a bump, just a small choke and occasional stall. I did briefly look down there and nothing looked out of place. I will recheck and look at those wires when the daylight comes back tomorrow. Thanks, I will update then.

 

I have replaced the fuel shut-off solenoid as that is the only thing that makes sense to me that could cause this issue. Still same issues.
More info: The stalling is getting worse, it will happen even when I'm just sitting now. No bumps. Also, 70% of the time it won't start at all. Not getting fuel. I'm past the limit of my own mechanic knowledge and I am learning that it's mostly guess work. Last thing I can think is to replace the connectors and wires to the FSOS.
It's a mostly mechanical engine so it should run. Unless the FSOS is stuck closed and won't let fuel through. I'm also having an issue with batteries dying(not draining) but I'll make a new thread for that.

 

Ok so it's definitely fuel shut-off solenoid. Or connected wires. I removed that and tried to crank it to see if any fuel was gurgling out. It started in a few cranks which I wasn't ready for and did NOT want! Of course without the FSOS, it wouldn't stop. Placed like 10 rags and 4 hands over the air intake and it was sucking through our fingers so I jumped underneath and quickly disconnected the closest fuel line I could find and reach. It just happened to be the one at the lifter pump so I had to squeeze my hand and wrench between the fan and belt and hope the wrench didn't slip. I got it off though pretty quick. Only lost about $20 of fuel and ruined my Dad's driveway(sorry!)

My new FSOS doesn't even work. Hooked it up to a power supply and got nothing. The old one, however, was working. Which is how I know it's gotta be wires. And I need another FSOS.
Will update later.

 

Check your connection for the fuel shutoff solenoid in the injection pump if that's lose or the wire is pinched it could cause this issue

 

Everything inside the cover looks and moves as it's supposed to. The one thing is a little loose but doesn't get caught up on anything. Can I get more details on the "connection for the fuel shutoff solenoid in the injection pump"?

I've checked all wires. They get the right amount of power when they are supposed to get it. I've checked all connections. Clean and strong. I've checked all fuel lines. I get fuel up until that solenoid and not past it unless solenoid is not there. I've checked the solenoid, gave it power from outside source. Clicks in and out no problem. Everything works as it's supposed to separately. But when I put it all together, no start..

I've tried calling some specialists and they all tell me what I already tried. I've watched every video on the internet on the IP. I just don't understand why it doesn't work together. Only thing I can think of right now is that I'm putting it in wrong. I've seen the videos how to put the cover back on correctly and I mimic that pretty much exactly. It just won't work after it is all togethetogether.

 

Now I can't get it to start at all. Haven't tried putting the old solenoid back in but I don't want to. I've put dielectric grease on the connectors to the IP. We tested the wires at the connectors when they weren't connected. All worked as you'd expect. That's why I cleaned up the tabs and put dielectric grease there.

Last thing I can think to try is just replacing all new wires and connectors and tabs and everything. Used DB2 IP's go for $200+ and a load of work because it's a van and there's no space. I can get mine rebuilt for $450. But I still gotta take it out, pay for shipping both ways, and put it back in. I don't want to do that because I know the issue has to be with the electronics. And all that is on the top. Easy to get to.

Also I was supposed to be leaving this awful state of CA weeks ago and I'm still stuck here. OOF.

 

Run a jumper from the battery to the FSS just to see if that helps. Also, you might have a stuck metering valve, which is restricting fuel flow to the injectors. Are you sure you are getting ample fuel flow to each injector?

https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...injector-pump/

 

Definitely getting ample fuel. Turns out, the issue was voltage. During cranking the voltage to the FSS went down to about 7. Which would explain why it wouldn't start, it was shutting due to low voltage. That led me to believe it was just bad wires even further. However... Had a different idea. It was a long shot but something I needed to do anyways so might as well. The glow plug relay was not acting as it should (cheap part, less than a year old) so I got a new one from NAPA. Got it on there and what do you know, started right up.

I'm suspecting the glow plug relay was bad, but not bad enough to not work. Then the original FSS started to go out, just cuz it was old. When that happened it might have messed up my glow plug relay. Or vice versa. Idk. But the GPR was definitely stealing voltage or causing some issues. Now, it starts every time. I don't get choking over bumps, and it doesn't stall on me.

Or maybe this was all just caused by those battery issues I mentioned before. Or maybe the GPR was CAUSING the battery issues. Here's hoping .. that would solve all my issues. Except my brakes that are starting to feel squishy and my trans that just started leaking. Yay. On to the next thread!

Hans and The Vanbulance

 

Got it all running well, got it all road trip ready except one minor leak. I will fix that when I get there. Jumped on the road for my cross country trek, but didn't even get 2 miles before the engine stalled and wouldn't start back up.

Tried jumping the FSOS in an attempt to get off the freeway and to somewhere I can work on it, didn't work. So I had to call a tow. $350 and 3 hours to go 2 miles because it's oversize and heavy load.

Went to the auto parts store and bought some wire and a switch. I made a manual switch for the FSOS. So it's direct from the battery, to switch, to FSOS. I've heard of others doing a manual switch/bypass for this before so I figured I'd try my hand. However, it did not work. When I clicked the switch I can hear the FSOS engaging and disengaging. But no start. Cranked for 15 seconds twice with the switch both directions. I'm SOL stuck in CA.

I figured if I can't fix the solenoid, a manual switch would definitely work because that just makes sense, right? And I don't think I installed the switch wrong because I can hear the solenoid moving. What do I do?

Can it just be another faulty Glow plug relay? After checking the wiring diagram that does seem to be a vital piece of the van's electrical system. And in case you haven't figured it out by now, I do have some bad luck. If you want more info about my van's electrical system and it's flaws, you can check my other thread. Could give some more insight.

Thanks for sticking with me and reading all this,
Hans and The Vanbulance

 

The shop was able to get it started, found it was just a bad ground. They also fixed that little leak I mentioned. Now we (my family) checked all wires including the ground and found them to be good so we must not have the best tools for the job because it runs now. Just flew back to Cali yesterday to pick up the van and drive to MI.

Also the shop I took it to stole me seat and hood prop! Not really, they just forgot to put them back so I had to drive back. While I was driving the choking issue came back!!! I mentioned it to the guy in the shop and he was rude and thought I was accusing him of poor work. I was just asking for advice. He was no help.

Anywho, the problem is still there even after all new wires to the FSOS. And my switch does work great. All fuel leaks are gone. Everything I checked is working. But the problem persists. The idle has gotten rougher since it's been fixed. The only thing I haven't checked is the IP. Could that be what has been causing the issue this whole time? And I just thought it was FSOS because it was going bad at the same time? Two issues simultaneously causing confusion.

Please help. I love my van and hate to see this engine that lasts forever have issues from literally everything that makes it run.

Thanks again,
Hans and The Vanbulance

 

Here I sit, stuck on the side of the freeway. Again. Stalled. Won't start. Called the shop that "fixed it" said they can't get to it untill next week. So I'm stuck here by myself with a car that won't start. Guess I'm missing my sister's baby shower...

Wish I could take it to a different shop, but this is the only one in the area that 'knows these engines' according to a few shops I've called.. Wonder how much it is to get it flatbed-ed across the country.. Get it to the new place and work on it there. Can't sell it. Not when it doesn't run. I would be very far in the hole and I've put way too much love into it.

At this point, what could possibly be wrong with it? Could it just be poor work from my shop? It seems every time I come back from there, there is a new problem.. But they get very rude and defensive when I ask about it. Say I'm accusing them. But when all signs point to that, what am I supposed to think? This choking problem only started after they replaced my fuel lines and Lifter pump several months ago. Then it gets so bad I can't drive it. So I take it back. They get it running. Take it home and there's another issue. Take it back. Get it running, and they steal my passenger seat. Then I get stuck again!

Sorry for the rant, I'm just frustrated that this 'simple reliable motor' doesn't want to work for me and is anything but simple apparently. At least this problem is stumping.

Thanks again,
Hans and The Vanbulance.

 

Hans I took my truck to a shop like this, and had more problems after they worked on it. I too was on the side of the road afterwards.

What lines did they replace? Are you able to take a Jerry can of diesel and about ten feet of 3/8 hose, and plumb it directly to your lift pump and drive around? Try and recreate the issue that way, and essentially cut your fuel system in half for troubleshooting.

 

Don't be. You've had a terrible experience, and you could do much worse than venting about it on the internet.

It is a VERY simple and reliable motor, the problem is your mechanic is unreliable. The other thing you're up against is that, simple as it is, most mechanics these days don't understand anything that lacks an OBD-II port. The market is so small it's not a profitable use of their time to learn. So either deal with a commercial truck shop that still has the tools and know-how to deal with these legacy systems, or you'll have to work on it yourself. And if you're working on it yourself, I assure you the 7.3 IDI engine is the simplest and most reliable engine that you could reasonably expect to stuff into that truck.