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all of the MAF engines at the boneyard had TPS and IAC. They lacked the air charge temp sensor
On the MAF trucks the air charge temp sensor is in the air filter box so it is closer to the MAF sensor, so it is part of the main engine bay harness instead of the fuel injector harness.
the 5 liters I looked at yesterday that had MAF were wired into the main engine bay harness, not the smaller engine harness that I’m searching for. I am hoping to keep my original main harness and just replace the engine/injector harness. Was simply hoping for plug and play. Certainly not like the old carb’d 70’s stuff I’m used to working on
I do not think you are going to have a plug and play solution. If you use a main harness and injector harness from a 94 5.8 it will reduce the amount of harness modification to just one connector unless I missed something along the way. My point about the Stang computer was that with a little more harness work you could have a better control system, and potentially an easier to obtain computer as they are pretty common.
He pretty much has a P & P wiring with the existing harness in the truck as per comparisons with diagrams above.
The donor 101 harness only needs the cut connectors IDed' and some pigtails soldered on.
The same 2 wires that batch fire 3 cylinders each, Tan & White, batch fire 4 cylinders each in the 5.8 application & go to the same pins on 185.
I don't see any differences from 101 back to the computer, but I might have missed something.
Use the right distributor, (the 89 won't work) & the right manual computer if somebody will come up with a number & it should work.
If he has a black Motorcraft ICM, which he should, everything should be golden.
Thoughts?
i bought a cardone distrubutor from rock auto says it’s the same unit for 93 or 94. My ignition module (original) on the firewall is grey. I can change that if need be though. All of the other sensors are for a 94 even though it’s a 89 engine. Throttle body is from a 94 as well. I ended up buying a harness from a 94 351 SD auto. It looks like it matches up for everything I need. Do you know what the plug along the back of the harness is for? I eliminated the egr, smog and AC on the rebuild……. Saw online you can simply bypass the EVR, TAB, TAD plugs with a 1/4 watt 75 ohm resistor……
The only thing that has a plug back there in that particular place, is the 101 harness for a 5.0 with a knock sensor.
Uncover the wires & tell us the colors to be sure. If it is a 5.0 harness, it doesn't matter if it's for a SD, it'll (should) work.
If it's a 5.0 MAF harness, it will have 8 individual injector wires & it will positively NOT work
If the ICM is gray, then it's a sure bet it's been changed (wrongly) as described by randy in posts 38 & 43.
The easiest way to delete the TAB & TAD is to leave the solenoids plugged in. The vac lines don't have to be. It will set a code, but won't illuminate the CEL or alter the performance.
The EGR is another matter. The computer need to see the sensor activated when the computer commands the solenoid to port vacuum to the EGR valve.
It does not have to be hooked up to the exhaust manifold or intake to do this.
If it doesn't, it will illuminate the CEL & set a code plus it will alter the fueling strategy, but the jury is out on whether it affects performance negatively. Some say it does, some say it doesn't.
Before you stab that distributor, were going to have to discuss steel vs cast gears or you might wipe out a cam distributor gear.
The only thing that has a plug back there in that particular place, is the 101 harness for a 5.0 with a knock sensor.
Uncover the wires & tell us the colors to be sure. If it is a 5.0 harness, it doesn't matter if it's for a SD, it'll (should) work.
If it's a 5.0 MAF harness, it will have 8 individual injector wires & it will positively NOT work
If the ICM is gray, then it's a sure bet it's been changed (wrongly) as described by randy in posts 38 & 43.
The easiest way to delete the TAB & TAD is to leave the solenoids plugged in. The vac lines don't have to be. It will set a code, but won't illuminate the CEL or alter the performance.
The EGR is another matter. The computer need to see the sensor activated when the computer commands the solenoid to port vacuum to the EGR valve.
It does not have to be hooked up to the exhaust manifold or intake to do this.
If it doesn't, it will illuminate the CEL & set a code plus it will alter the fueling strategy, but the jury is out on whether it affects performance negatively. Some say it does, some say it doesn't.
Before you stab that distributor, were going to have to discuss steel vs cast gears or you might wipe out a cam distributor gear.
cast gear on distributor. Cast gear on the comp cams 35-255-5, so should be good there. Also thought you could buy a bypass plug for the egr?
i printed both out to compare and look exactly the same. Am I missing something? Is this the actual computer or the plug / connector that attaches to the pcm? I found a control module yesterday…. Hoping it will work. PS appreciate all of the help!!!!
This computer is Speed Density(SD) for a 1993 351w E4OD.
Get a Quarter Horse(QH) tuner, tell the computer what trans you have, EGR, TAB/TAD, etc.
FYI, your 1994 computer for the six cylinder, probably EFI-SD47 has exact same hardware with the addition of knock sensor circuitry, its the software/tune that is different.
You could use your 1994 computer with a QH, and would need a v8 tune put on it.
I thought I saw somewhere 93-95 harness would essentially the same from either a 351 or 302…. I found two seperate 93 302’s yesterday with intact harnesses but they didn’t have an air temp sensor in the intake……. I assumed that those were then MAF motors and not SD motors???
My sources show me the following: also note the fine print where the asterisk(*) is
- 1994 F150 5.0L Automatic E4OD/4R70W will be MAF
- 1994 F150 5.0L Manual/Standard shift will have SD
Since the current harness you have is supposed to be a "1994 351w auto", but appears to have a knock sensor, which probably means its from a 302.
If it is indeed from a 302, you will have to verify if it is MAF or SD. Should be easy to identify.
SD will have a bank of injectors with the same wire colour. MAF will have a different colour for each injector. I think all injectors have one wire red,
[QUOTE=wwhite;20378666]My sources show me the following: also note the fine print where the asterisk(*) is
- 1994 F150 5.0L Automatic E4OD/4R70W will be MAF
- 1994 F150 5.0L Manual/Standard shift will have SD
Since the current harness you have is supposed to be a "1994 351w auto", but appears to have a knock sensor, which probably means its from a 302.
If it is indeed from a 302, you will have to verify if it is MAF or SD. Should be easy to identify.
SD will have a bank of injectors with the same wire colour. MAF will have a different colour for each injector. I think all injectors have one wire red,[/QUOT
ALL injectors will have one red wire, it is the other wire should be same on each bank for SD(2 banks, batch fire) 2 other colours Tan and White for each bank.
For MAF(sequential fire) each other wire on each injector will be different, Light Green/Orange, Tan/Red, Light Blue, Tan/Black, Brown/Light Blue, Brown/Yellow, Tan, White.
ALL injectors will have one red wire, it is the other wire should be same on each bank for SD(2 banks, batch fire) 2 other colours Tan and White for each bank.
For MAF(sequential fire) each other wire on each injector will be different, Light Green/Orange, Tan/Red, Light Blue, Tan/Black, Brown/Light Blue, Brown/Yellow, Tan, White.
Ok I’ll look once it gets here, but looking at the pic doesn’t look like they’re all different colors. And seller said that plug on back is for a knock sensor. I don’t have that on my 351. Assume I can just leave that hang?
Ok I’ll look once it gets here, but looking at the pic doesn’t look like they’re all different colors. And seller said that plug on back is for a knock sensor. I don’t have that on my 351. Assume I can just leave that hang?
351w never had knock sensors, so this is probably not a 351w wire harness.
This is where your going to have to verify that the 302 harness wiring and pinning is same for your 351 using all the lovely pinout diagrams above.
Yes, leave the knock sensor plug hang.
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