Working through error codes
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Cross-Country
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Working through error codes
So after fixing my fuel system issues I am moving on to other issues. "Big Pink" is a 1993 F150 XL 4.9l E4OD, and I got a 332 code, low flow through the EGR valve. So far I had recently cleaned out the intake manifold after seeing the build up of soot and oil etc. The EGR valve was holding vacuum just fine, overall manifold vacuum is a good solid 18 in., but I had already ordered the valve so I changed it, same code so I ordered a new solenoid and when I went to change it the solenoid the female spade lug connectors literally fell out of the connector and do not lock into the connector at all. So I put the connectors back in the way I believed they came out but now I get a 118 code bad EGR solenoid so I'm pretty sure I fried my new solenoid. I could just swap them and that is probably correct but I someone could verify the wire locations for me I would appreciate it. It looks like there is just red and black.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
So after fixing my fuel system issues I am moving on to other issues. "Big Pink" is a 1993 F150 XL 4.9l E4OD, and I got a 332 code, low flow through the EGR valve. So far I had recently cleaned out the intake manifold after seeing the build up of soot and oil etc. The EGR valve was holding vacuum just fine, overall manifold vacuum is a good solid 18 in., but I had already ordered the valve so I changed it, same code so I ordered a new solenoid and when I went to change it the solenoid the female spade lug connectors literally fell out of the connector and do not lock into the connector at all. So I put the connectors back in the way I believed they came out but now I get a 118 code bad EGR solenoid so I'm pretty sure I fried my new solenoid. I could just swap them and that is probably correct but I someone could verify the wire locations for me I would appreciate it. It looks like there is just red and black.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
EGR Vacuum Regulator = EVR
It does not sit on top of the EGR valve. That sensor is the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor. Vehicles that use EGR valve position feedback use an EVP. Vehicles that measure actual exhaust flow through the EGR system use a DPFE sensor. Both use a EVR to control the vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
Code 558 indicates an issue with the EVR solenoid. The EVR could be disconnected, open coil, reversed polarity or a bad connection. The EVR does have a diode across the coil so it is polarity dependent. The Red supply wire goes to the negative side of the diode.
This diagram from the old fuel injection site should help:
This photo may help as well:
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Cross-Country
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Thx for the pin-out that's exactly what I needed, picked up another solenoid from Pep Boys this morning, pretty sure the first one fried. So I have a new valve, which probably wasn't bad, a new solenoid which was bad and a new position sensor on it's way. One code at a time lol.
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Cross-Country
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Replaced the solenoid I blew up, left the negative battery lead off for a couple of hours and took her for a thirty minute drive. The check engine light never came on and for the first time has zero error codes!
Unfortunately she is still running as rough as a Dodge City Dance Hall girl lol. So back to old fashioned detective work to figure out why. Number three plug seems to be wet with oil so maybe a leaky valve stem seal. The way it runs though I seriously doubt that #3 alone is the answer. I was expecting to see codes for bad O2 sensor or mass air flow issues. I thought I saw someone post that the code readers that the auto parts stores use are better but I'm not sure that makes any sense, the OBD I either generates a code or it doesn't in my understanding.
Any suggestions as to which way to head from here are greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately she is still running as rough as a Dodge City Dance Hall girl lol. So back to old fashioned detective work to figure out why. Number three plug seems to be wet with oil so maybe a leaky valve stem seal. The way it runs though I seriously doubt that #3 alone is the answer. I was expecting to see codes for bad O2 sensor or mass air flow issues. I thought I saw someone post that the code readers that the auto parts stores use are better but I'm not sure that makes any sense, the OBD I either generates a code or it doesn't in my understanding.
Any suggestions as to which way to head from here are greatly appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
Here is the Reader that most on the forum use for diagnostic code checking. It makes it so easy to run KOEO and it gives you memory codes after KOEO runs and it has a KOER test mode. I run diagnostic test about every 3-4 weeks just to see if any codes are stored. Takes about 5 minutes with the reader. Auto parts stores here do not offer diagnostic for OBD1. They only do OBD2.
Above post from you does not indicate what codes you ran. Did you do KOEO and KOER?
Above post from you does not indicate what codes you ran. Did you do KOEO and KOER?
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Cross-Country
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That is the reader I have as well. All the tests I have run are KOEO, I will have to go back to the manual to find out how to run the engine running tests. That's good news actually maybe the answers lie there. I will update once I figure it out and run some tests.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
It is very important that you have the engine to operating temp when you do the test. You can let it idle until it reaches normal or drive it. There are several things you should do during the KOER test. They will be in your manual. Brake and goose test and OD test. Hopefully the test will shed the light.
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Cross-Country
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Ok that's more like what I was expecting. Here's what came up.
129 Insufficient Mass Air Flow
167 Throttle position Sensor Fault during Dynamic response test
412 Cannot control RPM during high RPM check
Now I have somewhere to start at least.
129 Insufficient Mass Air Flow
167 Throttle position Sensor Fault during Dynamic response test
412 Cannot control RPM during high RPM check
Now I have somewhere to start at least.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
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From: Houston/Sugar Land
129 AND 167 happening when you goose tested may have been an error. I would run codes again at temp and see if they come back.
412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test - MAP MAF
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test - MAP MAF
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS