Migging body panels
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
Migging body panels
I did some tack welds to a friends vehicle yesterday. Actually, tack welds was all I could do with his rented welder. It was a Lincoln 100, with flux core wire, at .035 size... I have never mig welded before, and it took all I could to just get nice tack welds. I cannot seem to run a bead with the thing; It just seems to me like the wire is too big, and maybe uses too much heat to melt it, causing the sheet metal to burn through? I found using the lowest heat range and a lower wire feed worked the best. Yes, and the spatter from the flux wire was not very desireable... I want to talk him into buying the same welder, but get the gas kit and some .023 wire instead of the .035.
I hope I have given enough info for you welders out there to help me out. The tacks are holding great, but I need to stitch up now... (I know about the warpage issue, and to tack alternating areas to allow cooling in the previous tack area.)
Mark
I hope I have given enough info for you welders out there to help me out. The tacks are holding great, but I need to stitch up now... (I know about the warpage issue, and to tack alternating areas to allow cooling in the previous tack area.)
Mark
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 2
From: Northwest Fl
I now use the gas and the .023 wire, I couldn't get the flux core wire to work at all. My MIG welder sat in the corner of my shop for three years, collecting dust until I tried the gas. The difference between the two methods is like night and day.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
You gave your friend good advise. Gas instead of flux-core. Smaller wire instead of larger wire. Low amps instead of high amps. Now the only thing to do is practice.
Get some old sheet metal. Create the same kind of joint (which I assume is a lap joint) and spend some time working with the welder. If nothing else, you might use what I call the 'spit' method.
Give the trigger a short 1/4 second pull. Let the weld cool for about a 1/2 second before you pull the trigger again. Using this method, you can fill any gap. Sure it is time consuming, but it works.
Spitting in a weld requires a balance between your amp setting and your trigger timing. Play with it a bit. What you should aim for is a nice flat puddle of molten metal that doesn't burn though.
You gave your friend good advise. Gas instead of flux-core. Smaller wire instead of larger wire. Low amps instead of high amps. Now the only thing to do is practice.
Get some old sheet metal. Create the same kind of joint (which I assume is a lap joint) and spend some time working with the welder. If nothing else, you might use what I call the 'spit' method.
Give the trigger a short 1/4 second pull. Let the weld cool for about a 1/2 second before you pull the trigger again. Using this method, you can fill any gap. Sure it is time consuming, but it works.
Spitting in a weld requires a balance between your amp setting and your trigger timing. Play with it a bit. What you should aim for is a nice flat puddle of molten metal that doesn't burn though.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: indiana
tack weld the panel in. do one on one end and then another on the other end alternate ends to not overheat the metal. keep tack welding until its all welded up. a flux core will do the job but a gas is so much easier. ive. found that smaller diameter wire is better for small welding and low heat. the bigger is for hot heavy duty welding that needs alot of fill. i normally have.30 good all around. but im no expert just my 2 cents
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
I am not able to look at what your working on but I can offer this advice. Bare metal is always best when MIG welding whether it be flux-core or shielded gas. Remove all of the paint on both sides of the joint about 1" . As the paint burns, it mixes with the metal and will cause corrosion in the weld. Not to mention the welds will pile up and not flow like it should.
You can run beads about 3/8" long once the panel is tacked in. But the tacks must be spaced 3/8" apart before you do. You will also need to massage the joint with hammer and dolly as you go since welding hardens the metal. If you wait until the entire panel is welded in, you will never get it smooth with out deep body filler (unless your a guru of the metal, you will still need some filler). And we all know how bad this can be a few years down the road.
Add these tips to the great advice you have already recieved and your patch should come out real nice.
You can run beads about 3/8" long once the panel is tacked in. But the tacks must be spaced 3/8" apart before you do. You will also need to massage the joint with hammer and dolly as you go since welding hardens the metal. If you wait until the entire panel is welded in, you will never get it smooth with out deep body filler (unless your a guru of the metal, you will still need some filler). And we all know how bad this can be a few years down the road.
Add these tips to the great advice you have already recieved and your patch should come out real nice.
