I got my adapter from Cornhusker and he recommended them

 

I got this from Speedway.

 

I got the Speedway crossmember last night. Here are a few pictures. If I can get it to mount where it is in the pictures, I can leave my master cylinder booster.

Does anyone have their measurement from the old crossmember to the T5 mount.

 

Strongly suggest doing a full mock up with engine/transmission.

 

Which master cylinder is that? What diameter is the booster, I’m seeing 7” or 8”, then single or dual diaphragm? Single or dual diaphragm? Our setups are going to be really close to the same.

I have been looking at one of these.

 

I agree with post #19. do a full mock-up to get the right height/distance from the crossmember and the proper engine tilt. I think you will find the stock crossmember will need some trimming.
I tried the stock 7" mustang II master cylinder /booster (if I recall) with the no-limit eng pedal mount. It was completely in the way of the new crossmember. I might can get a pic or two and a measurment later today if youstill want.
Christopher 2 (post #12), the chevy 10" disc is what you need and the stock pressure plate is re-used. Parts might be cheaper thru your local supplier? maybe?

 

I would like to see pictures and what you ended up doing. I have found a lot of threads that don’t show installed and working setups. The person either never finished or didn’t share end results.

No Limit Options

This option from no limit looks interesting. The remote options takes up less space in the area and cleans it up a bit. The booster looks smaller also for some reason.

 

I am planning on a full mock up this weekend. I will get pictures. I’ve got the T5 apart and waiting for a bearing kit so the empty shell will be a lot lighter.

I’m not sure of the size of the booster but I willmeasure while I’m under the truck today. It was a CPP kit several years ago.

Is it possible to leave the bottom rail of the old crossmember? I’m planning on cutting the ‘rudder’ off of the tail shaft if that helps any.

 

here is the center of the original crosssmember cut out


The center flat piece stayed, but I added 1/4' plate on the front and rear plate. (note: the center flat piece was cut in the middle and pushed down enough to clear the tranny)


and the stock mastercylinder:


more pics


here is the no limit brake mount kit that I removed


hope these will help, let me know if you need more.

 

That helps a lot and gives me a clearer picture of what I’m working with.

I definitely want to go with a dual master cylinder for safety—having a split system just makes sense so I’m not risking a total loss of brakes if something fails. I’m also planning to add front disc brakes, so I’m aiming for a setup that gives solid, reliable stopping power in modern traffic.

Trying to keep the factory-style floor pedal if possible, but space is tight with the T5 swap, so I’m weighing options that will fit without interference. Open to suggestions on what’s worked well for others in a similar setup.


May try and modify that center crossmember for transmission to be more of a “U” shape on the left to clear master cylinder.

 

I thought the same thing when I was doing mine...(the "U" shape at the brake booster). Here is another thought...look at the possibility to run the stock master cylinder to power a remote booster? the remote booster can be mounted anywhere, and it can be dual circuit . I always had this in the back of my mind.

 

With a single reservoir system, if a wheel cylinder leaks, it will drain the entire system. With a dual system front and rear are divided so you could lose one end but not both with a leak or hose break.

 

I do not have any experience with the F-1 trucks but I did make custom cross members for my 1955 F-100.

Any of these frames that have cantilevered cab mounts NEED a cross member in the original location to counteract the leverage of the cab mounts. Ford has the original cross members connected to the top and bottom flange of the frame and the web of the frame. This cross member does not have to be the original shape, but it does have to do what the original member did which is to counteract the leverage of the cab mounts.

I built a custom cross member to replace the original one and I built a second cross member to support the back of my 10R80 transmission.

The original cross member location on my truck was nowhere near close enough to work for any transmission I was considering. However, it was required for structural integrity.

 

If your original engine/trans is still in position, it's a good idea to take a measurement from a place on the firewall to a place on your block or head so you can end up with your engine's rear at the same height as stock. Some fudging is ok , but things can bind up under certain conditions. Things like throttle linkage!!!!! Yikes.