2015 F250 PSD, CC 4X4 89K miles
. I don't know what's going on here. I installed the Rudy's cold pipe about 3 years ago and all seemed well. Towing my 11K lb trailer, I was going into a Regen about every 100 miles on the highway. At first I thought crappy fuel but in looking under the hood, the metal pipe is sliding out of the silicone reducer boot. I re-inserted it and tightened the clamp, and it keeps slipping out. The truck actually feels a little sluggish and I am not over boosting. Going up hills the boost guage is just a little over 20lbs.

The metal coupler on the throttle body always seemed a little loose, so I got another circlip and O ring that I'm getting ready to install. The part I am concerned about is the whole set up is covered in oily soot. It's apparent around all the boots, and the underside of the throttle body coupler is coated with it. So, what's happening here? The sensor in the pipe is coated in oil. Can that be cleaned with some MAF sensor cleaner without damage?

Oil on coupler

 

The inside of the coupler has oil in it, and the throttle body looks nasty inside.


Underside of the coupler

 

It sure looks like the excess oil vapor is causing the slip
on my 6.0 this happened a few times
the cure was proper torque and clean clean mating surface
we used alcohol the clean oil the oil off, then cleaned again. then sprayed cheap (white rain) hair net hair spray on the coupler rubber and the metal pipe end, then assembled the coupling and torqued to spec.
hair net spray dries to a sticky film that helps the grip
but your pics look like your pushing a lot of oil vapors?

 

A lot of oil vapors. there is actually liquid oil collecting in the groves of the metal coupler. The throttle body looks nasty in there as well. Do you know if the throttle body gasket is reusable if removed for cleaning?

 

i do not, sorry
somebody will chime in

white rain is the brand ..cheap stuff super sticky .

 

With all that oil in there, it’s past time to service your CCV.

 

Didn't think of that. How hard is that to do? It looks like it is behind the fuel filter, partially under the cowling.

Do you know the remove/replace procedure?

 

Not for a 2015. Some years have a serviceable filter and some you have to replace the CCV. Not sure which yours would be.

 

There is no way for oil to get in that tube unless you have a oil leak at the turbo. There should be nothing in that tube but air. Only place oil could get into that tube is from the turbo.

 

The CCV vents into the turbo inlet....

Some oil in the CAC is quite common.

 

When I did mine, there was oil in the stock pipe. But that was before I put on the Mishimoto oil catch can.

 

Agreed on checking your CCV setup, there are several great videos on YouTube for removal or replacing the filter if you have the older style with the replaceable filter.
As for your concern about the pipe, I had a set of Rudy's IC pipes and boots on my old 6.0 that worked OK when driving empty, but when I was pulling a trailer I could not keep the damn boots from blowing. I removed the Rudy's boots and clamps and replaced them with Riffraff boots and clamps, problem solved. Rudy's boots look quality but in my experience, they aren't. I would find another silicone coupler and a couple new clamps and see what happens. At the very least, use some carb cleaner to get all that oil out of the boot and spray the inside of the boot with hairspray, reinstall and let the hairspray dry before driving it.

 

That's how I installed the first time, going to remove, clean, and re-install this weekend when I clean the throttle body.

 

11-16 has a non serviceable CCV box. By it's design there is nothing to clog or restrict, it's just a box with baffles in it. This oily mess is why some people use a catch can or CCV bypass.

 

Mine has never come apart but it does move a little toward the CAC (the curved part of the pipe). So I have experienced some movement there with my Rudy's pipe.