bad glowplug controller?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2022
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bad glowplug controller?
been running around town all day in my f350, injection pump is nearly gone and have to pour water on it to start it, last few starts today glow plug light stayed on for 20-30 seconds or so, then after the last start today (I didnt dare shut it off till I got home) the light stayed on, never went out during about an hour of driving, got home, shut the truck off, turned back to run and the light once again wouldnt go out, felt the wire on the number 5 plug and it was cool, didnt check others, but this tells me either: bad glow plugs and no resistance, or bad controller
any ideas?
if it is the controller, is there any specific ones that are better than others? ive tossed around the idea of wiring it into a push button, but not sure I want to do that just yet
any ideas?
if it is the controller, is there any specific ones that are better than others? ive tossed around the idea of wiring it into a push button, but not sure I want to do that just yet
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,940
Likes: 507
From: Edmond, OK
MAW wire it to a push button. I replaced the controller on my 6.9l with a new one and it only lasted a few months. I even had to get a new set of wrenches so I could remove the controller from the head (1 1/16" I think). Of course the 7.3l controller is different. If you wire it to a push button make sure you put the switch on the ground of the controller. Good luck. 
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Freshman User
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the controller always has power, and always sends power, but cannot complete a circuit without grounding correct?
I thought if you grounded it (white wire ive been told) that would just let it run a cycle, I was imagining bypassing it entirely, but if it will run for as long as I hold the button (10 sec max) then I guess I will do it
also, if the controller is bad (light now blinks) then wouldnt that also mean powering it does nothing?
pardon my ignorance, ive had this thing a month
I thought if you grounded it (white wire ive been told) that would just let it run a cycle, I was imagining bypassing it entirely, but if it will run for as long as I hold the button (10 sec max) then I guess I will do it
also, if the controller is bad (light now blinks) then wouldnt that also mean powering it does nothing?
pardon my ignorance, ive had this thing a month
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 290
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From: california's farmland
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2022
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update: running the plugs by jumping the relay with a wrench
update 2: buying spare belts, alternator belt went, took my fan belt off, lost fan, power steering, charging, and vacuum for the brakes... found out at a red light on the highway, with a loaded trailer
good times
update 2: buying spare belts, alternator belt went, took my fan belt off, lost fan, power steering, charging, and vacuum for the brakes... found out at a red light on the highway, with a loaded trailer
good times
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 290
Likes: 27
From: california's farmland
im not sure, i followed the instructions on that link i sent and mine works well, are they motorcraft gp? i know others can cause problems. maybe cut those wires u left attached? good luck
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
the shop guy told me thats all they use for the older fords so it could possibly be the non cut wires... guess ill have to give them a try...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
well when i push the button i can hear the solenoid "click" so i assume that it is transferring power to the GP's... i need to check it to make sure the solenoid is transferring the power ....oh the fun of having a older vehicle....
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
not all the time. there is very high current flowing through the relay. when you hear the "click" it is the contact plates closing. the contact plates get carbon arc from the high current.
they also spin a little bit each time applied. if they do not move, they continue to arc causing a no contact situation.
thin of crossing battery terminals with a wrench that black melted spot on the wrench is carbon arc. do it enough times in the same spots, and eventually they will no longer make contact.
they also spin a little bit each time applied. if they do not move, they continue to arc causing a no contact situation.
thin of crossing battery terminals with a wrench that black melted spot on the wrench is carbon arc. do it enough times in the same spots, and eventually they will no longer make contact.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
not all the time. there is very high current flowing through the relay. when you hear the "click" it is the contact plates closing. the contact plates get carbon arc from the high current.
they also spin a little bit each time applied. if they do not move, they continue to arc causing a no contact situation.
thin of crossing battery terminals with a wrench that black melted spot on the wrench is carbon arc. do it enough times in the same spots, and eventually they will no longer make contact.
they also spin a little bit each time applied. if they do not move, they continue to arc causing a no contact situation.
thin of crossing battery terminals with a wrench that black melted spot on the wrench is carbon arc. do it enough times in the same spots, and eventually they will no longer make contact.
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