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Scratching my head here.
rear diff pinion is leaking
Installed new 2-3 yrs ago
Have it appart now.
I swear there was a crush washer involved with last install ?
Did not see one on removal of this seal.
1988 f150 4x4
my books are not showing one ?
BTw the so called flange had quite a bit of play as it looks as if was not tight enough ?
The play is not so much twisting left and right but you can wiggle it corner to corner as if it’s loose , nut not tightened quite enough…
Torqued to factory specs.
Anyhow like to put this back together tommorro and didn’t see the crush.
is there supposed to be one ?
Also not sure what model rear end this is ?
ford 9”
Thanks - a pic would be great , kinda struck out on google
Last edited by Broncor; Feb 20, 2022 at 11:30 PM.
Reason: Additional info
It's not very likely that it's a 9" It's probably an 8.8", it's easy to tell, is there a cover that you unbolt from the rear of the differential to drain the oil? 8.8. Do you pull the whole differential out from the front as a a unit? 9"
Now knowing it’s an 8.8 gave me my info thank you .
Doesn’t look like there is a crush ?
Where the heck did I use one lol ? Coulda swore it was back there..
Any comments from someone who has done these and the play I described in the flange would be great.
Thanks
Yes, in stock form, the 8.8 uses a crush sleeve, it goes on before the flange does. I don't remember the exact procedure, you'd need to look it up, but you do something like torque it down to 140 ft-lbs of static torque, and then you have to do rolling torque measurements in in-lbs
Yes, similar to the sterling 10.25 i have in my truck, there is a crush sleeve under the yoke you removed. Might not be distinguishable in its current deformed state, but they start out like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...gaAtGOEALw_wcB
Then as stated above, the process is to torque to a specific number, and then check the turning resistance in in/lbs. I BELIEVE the differential/ring gear should be removed for this process to ensure the pinion is the only thing being measured, but youd have to double check.
All that said, they make crush sleeve eliminators to make this process a bit easier:
I remember lifting rear end so no static resistance, then crush the washer, then take it ultimately to 14 in/pounds.
where the heck did my crush washer go ? Was not there when I disassembled yesterday.
put one in when I did this exact same procedure 2 years ago.
May explain the sloppy flange.
The crush sleeve (not washer) goes between the two bearings. I've never had luck taking any short cuts on rear end work. Re-used pinion nut? Comes loose. Slapping a new seal in but not removing the carrier? Bearing pre-load was off, broken rollers on the pinion bearing.
I've had good experiences doing it by the book. Completely disassemble the rear axle. New crush sleeve, new seal, new nut. If I'm that far into it? All new bearings. Just re-use the shims in exactly the same places. Carefully set pinion bearing preload. Go too tight? Start over with a new sleeve.
I've had to replace flanges before, because they get a small groove in them and won't seal well.
Just my opinions/experiences. I know others slap a new seal in and re-use the pinion nut, just tightening it to the "same spot" as before disassembly and get along fine without even verifying bearing preload. Maybe I'm hard on equipment.
I found crush once Bearing pulled duhh.
went new seal, crush and nut
got pre load pretty good
I think rear end needs some love
lots of play in the gears
I don’t have enough experience visually to tell but my guess… truck is 34 years old ..
thanks for help folks
drive it for awhile and see how it goes but I think rebuild is coming