Truck break ins, and crime in general, seems to be out of control. Especially if you live or work in a big city or large town. In San Antonio it is absolutely out of control. Mostly due to political reasons, but we wont go into that. It's a hot topic now and I don't want this thread derailed.

On our trucks, there is an almost laughably easy way to break into the truck that any low IQ drug addict can do. If you lock your truck, then pull the handle as if you want to open it, you will see that the lock cylinder protrudes about a full inch outside the door. The lock cylinder is mounted in the plastic door handle assembly, so there is nothing solid there. The cylinder is connected directly to the door latch with a steel rod so that it will lock and unlock wit the twist of the key. All that a thief needs to do is twist the easily accessible lock cylinder, causing the entire cylinder to rotate and pull the rod that unlocks the truck. It's done as quickly as if they used a key and leaves little visible damage, unless the thief has to wrestle with it a bit.

The reason I have posted how it's done is so that you will understand how easy it is and be able to recognize if it's happened to you. It's common knowledge among criminals at this point.

We probably take a dozen or more reports daily for Ford truck alone due this this easy method to get into our trucks. For those who have push to start and lock their fob inside, or keep the extra one inside, the thieves usually will push the start button to check. If the truck starts, they will be gone in it and it will be in Mexico in about 2 1/2 hours only to be recovered damaged a week or two later after it has been used to smuggle drugs or illegal immigrants.

I've gotten to the point where I don't take my truck many places anymore unless I actually need it for truck stuff. So a couple of nights ago, I installed a set of Jimmi Jammers on my front doors.

https://jimmijammer.com/JJ%20description,%20113700.html

I chose this product because it's the only one on the market that i know of and they have been in business for quite some time. I also wanted the steel plates behind the door handle in case some meth tweeker was over-focused on wanting inside. You can get most of the protection for nothing more than the effort of removing the lock cylinder.

Start by removing the door panels. You will need to pull some clips and remove a couple of small trim pieces. You will need a 7mm and a 10mm socket and a trim removal tool or small pry bar. There are videos easily accessible online, so I wont bore you with written instructions. The written instructions that come with the Jimmi Jammers aren't that good either. The door hanles themselves have a 10mm nut, top and bottom accessible from the inside of the door (make sure you leave the glass up). and a 10mm bolt that is accessed thru a hole on the side of the door. There is a rubber grommet that you remove to get to it.

Random video, not me

If you want to do this cheap, you will need a washer large enough to cover the lock cylinder opening, a bolt, nut and another washer for the backside. The Jimmy Jammer comes with a little black metal plug for the hole. and a smaller one for the lock hole on the handle itself. The small one is only for aesthetics. I put a black hex nut there for visual deterrence.

Another thing I did that's not mentioned in the Jimmy Jammer kit, or anywhere else that I've seem, is to remove the lock rod form the door handle to the door latch entirely. Once you have removes it from it's clip in the door handle, look down and you will see that it's connected to the inside of the door latch by a simple bend in the rod, just rotate the rod down, and lift it of the latch. Then there is no worry about it rattling or of anyone fishing around to find it.

The steel reinforcement plates in the Jimmi Jammer kit are easy to mount when you re-mount the door handle. You can do the passenger side super easy by only removing the bottom nut on the inside of the handle and the side bolt under the plug. No need to pull the entire handle. In my opinion these plates are not really that necessary unless you want to keep the lock cylinder for whatever reason. You can get the benefits of removing the lock and the lock rod for free, just your effort.

Another thing to consider is getting a left rear door handle and replacing the driver's door handle with it. That way there is no lock hole at all. This is a good thing to do if your handle is already broken. Mine is painted to match the body and undamaged, so I didn't want to replace it. Finding a Tuxedo Black door handle is almost impossible and I didn't want to pay to have a new one painted to match. Also, if you have the proximity sensor in your door handle, using a rear door handle will not work unless you want to eliminate that feature.

Don't leave backpacks, gym bags, travel bags, purses, laptop bags etc in sight inside of your truck. Just the sight of those things will entice a criminal to break in, hoping there is good stuff in them. DO NOT leave your pistol in the center console or glove compartment. Don't leave it behind at all if you can help it. If you must leave it, put it behind the rear seat or lock it in a high quality tool box. The little safe for the consoles? They are mounted in the plastic console and can be pried open in seconds. You'd be better off putting your pistol where the jack is. And don't hide it when you park, because someone may be watching when you pull up. DO NOT lock your keys or key bob in the truck. They will steal the truck instead of just stealing some of your stuff.

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Just to show how easy it is to grab with pliers

 

Great write up. With my Lariat 502a, wouldn't my alarm go off if the entered without the fob? I agree about the hand guns, take them in with you. Problem is sometimes we can't, work, church etc.

 

They are done by the time the alarm goes off and gets your attention. The good thieves pull the wires going to the horn. They can reach them through the openings in some of the grilles.

 

Console Vault.
Anti-Theft Car Safes | Shop Truck Safes | Console Vault

 

I see those console vaults broken into or out all the time. Most mount to the plastic in the console.

 

I'm not sure what you have seen.
I had one in my '13 and have one in my '17.
I installed both of them.
I know how they go in and know their weaknesses.
At best, as with anything, all you can do is harden the target.

However, a smash and grab guy will not get into the vault I have.
At best, you would have to completely destroy the center (air fow type) console.

 

Great tips as usual JKBrad! What do you know about the gun safe/lock boxes that attach to the seat frame with a cable? Are worth a spit? Pretty sure they would slow a thief down a little, but not if they have a cable cutter. Any stats on this type of safe?
https://www.hornady.com/security/lock-boxes/

 

Generally on the reports I take and scenes I process, they tend to miss items under the front seats and behind the back seat. The cable would require a bolt cutter to get. Disguise the cable buy putting apiece of black vacuum hose on it or paint it black. The steel or clear plastic coated steel catches the eye. Most of these guys move fast.

In driveways at night, they have more time. Yes, I have seen many consoles destroyed. A small crow bar breaks the plastic console and they are in. The kind that are just a metal face with a locking door are nearly useless. The ones that are a metal box that bolt in are tougher to breach. And I’ve seen just as many that were left unlocked because it’s too much of a pain to lock and unlock it. A locked up gun is no use when you need it now anyway. Take your guns with you when you leave the truck, or leave them at home.

Also, remove all the decals from your truck that indicate that you are a 2A supporter, a fan of a particular gun manufacturer, etc. anything that gives a clue that there may be good stuff inside. King Ranch and Platinum trucks are especially targets, due to their expense and the value of the parts off the truck, in the event a key fob was left inside.

 

I had jimmy jammers on my 02 F-350 and they worked so well, they smashed the rear side window to get in after they bent the door metal around the door handle. However, I still use the jimmy jammers on my 2014 F-150 along with the console vault.

 

Nice write-up. After I read it, I went out and could see the issue plain as day. What an awful design! How long did Ford use that lock design after the 2015? .... or are they still using it? I guess I will be looking around now.

BTW, the sorta-flat part of the cylinder fits an 18mm open-end wrench pretty good.

 

WOW! That is crazy how easy Ford made these to be broken in to.

I think the only thing I see here - and you may have covered it in your write up - is with no key how do I get in if the truck battery is dead?

 

I have never had a battery that was so dead that the door couldn't be unlocked. Even if it won't crank, the door will unlock. If worse came to worse, you could put jumper cables on the the starter. It would crank the starter, but you would only need it connected for a second or two, long enough to unlock the truck. If the key fob battery dies, that's super easy to replace.

 

Could you leave the lock and simply take the lock rod away?

 

Then you leave the temptation for easy entry. You could take the lock rod away. But then what’s the purpose of keeping the protruding cylinder in place? They would likely damage the handle more until they realized that it wouldn’t unlock. With the lock cylinder gone, there’s nothing for them to manipulate.

 

Great write up JKBrad!

The above was what I was thinking as well - they'll scratch your paint and get frustrated and then break a window. But even with the cylinder removed, breaking a window is next on the list...

Such a bummer to spend this much on a truck and have such a profound security weakness... My '07 is super easy to break into as well - I put a Ravelco on it...