Me too. If not, I guess there’s nothing I can do about it right now. This day sucked for a number of reasons. Trying to forget about it.

I’ll move onto door installation on Saturday. Hopefully the PV shows up soon after. I don’t see what else it could possibly be. Float bowl levels are right in the middle of the sight glass, idle screws were set to provide max vacuum (all of 8.5” with this cam), timing is at 15 BTDC. All the symptoms of a bad PV are there. Pig rich, takes a clear flood maneuver to even start, engine doesn’t respond to idle screws, spits fuel from the carb when it shuts off. Just a rich mess instead of a fuel metering device right now. If anyone has other ideas I’m open to hearing them, but the PV is my conclusion at this point.

Thanks for the compliment and your help through this whole process. I greatly appreciate it.

 

Only 8.5'' !!!

The power valve might actually be staying open, as opposed to being faulty.

Is the duration of your cam 230/236 @ 0.05'' ?

If yes, then I don't think the cam is the cause of the low vacuum.

You had the engine running nicely on a dyno, so I'm wondering what changed since then.

Is the choke staying on ? (Yeah, that's a grasp at straws.)

Is the vacuum advance connected to ported or manifold ? You want manifold. (That's not the issue at hand.) (It looks like manifold in the pic, but it doesn't hurt to ask)

Idle timing of 15* is fine. (Assumed +/- 35* with manifold vac adv connected)

Make 100% sure that you have no vacuum leaks, including the transmission.

Check the wiring on the fan switch.

 

Yes, duration at .050 is 230/236. I set the choke to open a little earlier than factory when I was struggling with cold starts. The fast idle cam setting was maxxed out and I still couldn’t get the engine to flare. I think it’s because it was loading up so much. Choke wouldn’t matter though because now the problem is with hot starts. I think I may be able to get more vacuum out of the engine once the carb actually starts responding to idle mixture changes. Of course, if that happens, then I’m going to have to change the power valve again to align it with the idle vacuum setting.

No vacuum leaks. Everything is tight. I currently have the advance on ported. It was on manifold for a while but I switched a week ago trying to troubleshoot the cold start issues. Didn’t make a difference.

 

You will definitely increase the vacuum once the problem is solved.

Expect the 8.5 to at least double.

Don't worry about what size the new PV is.

The PV's don't (shouldn't) open whilst driving until the vacuum matches the PV setting.

You'll best determine what PV size suits you when you've been driving for a while.

 

Well, after some changes and fixes the idle is up to 10". That's the best she can do idling at 875 RPM in neutral which seems to be the happy spot. The power valve was definitely blown. I could blow air through it with my mouth. The engine no longer smokes me out of the garage.

It responds to the idle screws now. Choke setting might need a little work as well as the fast idle setting. I've added 1 turn into the secondary idle screw which has helped. I might need to throw a little more at it. I changed the oil again because I suspected it was tainted with fuel, and it definitely was based on the ol' sniffer test. Of course, because the problems never stop, I now have an oil leak I'm chasing. It's coming down the plate between the engine and trans (torque converter cover). I'm hoping it's an intake manifold thing as that area on the rear china wall seems a bit wet. If it's a rear main seal, I'm probably just going to throw myself off a cliff.

 

Well, it’s definitely a rear main leak. It’s coming down between the trans plate and the rear of the engine block. You can see it here. It’s only 3 or 4 drops after I run the engine up to temp each time, so at this point I’m going to just let it go, get all of the body panels aligned, and deal with it later. When the engine needs to come out to replace the seal I can just remove the aligned front clip as one piece and do the repair. I’m not tearing this thing apart again at this point. I’m incredibly disappointed, but I need to keep moving forward.


On a positive note, the engine is running much better. I still have some issues to sort out but switching back to manifold vacuum for the distributor, getting the power valve issue sorted, and doing some further tuning with the ol’ vacuum gauge has gotten me close.

Tightened the bed bolts down today and I’m currently working on getting the “Camper Special” badges painted the way I want them. That’s a project in and of itself. Painting badges that have recessed and raised areas different colors and getting them to look good is not fun.

 

That sucks.

I'm pleased that you successfully identified the PV as a problem, but 10'' vacuum at 875rpm is still not great, especially as the normal neutral rpm should be circa 800rpm.

So, thinking out loud, if the carb and timing are more or less dialed in, I'd suspect the valve train.

A quick and useful test would be a compression test.

It wouldn't hurt to know the cylinder pressures anyway.

 

I might do that just for the "fun" of it, but from what I have read somewhere between 10 and 13" is pretty normal for an XR282-HR-1.

I have a PCV system on the engine now but I have read so many great things about the Wagner adjustable PCV that can be specifically tailored to engines with lower vacuum.

I'm proceeding with getting the badges installed on the fenders and then get the fenders hung on the front clip. I wanted to keep the original Camper Special Badges for nostalgia reasons, but I didn't really like the original color scheme. There's a big red stripe on the bottom and I don't think that exactly fits very well with the character of this truck. Plus, they're very difficult to come across and if you find some the paint is faded or ruined anyway. I went for a black out look with polished lettering. They're not perfect, but they'll do. Still need to do a little bit of touch-up.

 

I like the blacked out Camper Special emblem, looks great!

A couple of comments on the rear main leak. I know its snake oil, & they never work. But, I've read a lot of positive things about them, it may be worth a try. Check Amazon for different brands & reviews. Here's what I am talking about. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...d&gclsrc=3p.ds

In addition to Ford trucks, I'm an AMC guy. It has become well known in that world over the past couple of years that Fel Pro rear main seals fail rapidly, sometimes instantly. The cure is a SCE rear main seal. I don't know if this applies to Fords, & I don't know if you used a Fel Pro gasket set, but it may & may be worth looking in to.

 

I actually have a pint of Barr’s leak RMS in there now, but apparently it takes a couple hundred miles to work. I’m not a snake oil guy either, but I’ve heard good things about the RMS stuff.

The machine shop assembled the long block and I recall getting a Felpro box with leftover gaskets. Thanks for the suggestion on the new seal for when I need it. I’m beyond pissed about this.

 

I must admit that I am surprised that such a 'small' cam would do that.

I say small coz the overlap is only 13* at 0.05'' and 65* at 0.006'', and the LSA, lifts, and durations, aren't radical.

Thinking out loud still :

The engine ran ok on the dyno 2 years ago, but ''all of a sudden'', the pv was toast, the rear main seal leaks, the idle was/is crap, and there were hot/cold starting issues (pv related ?).

Maybe one or more valves are sticking open ?

Does the needle on the vacuum gauge stay steady at 10'' ?

You use a vacuum gauge, which is a great tool, but measuring the cylinder pressures is just as useful.

Luckily it's quick 'n easy to do.

Are you using an AFR gauge, which is another very useful tool ?

10'' vacuum at 875rpm, which is probably nearer 9'' at 800rpm, with full manifold vacuum advance, and 15* initial timing, just sounds too low, and screams 'there's an issue somewhere'.

The engine measurements might be such that a low compression is unavoidable, but I'm focusing on the easy stuff first just in case I'm talking crap. (I don't want to waste your time.)

I've been meaning to ask, has your Father seen the truck during it's restoration ?

 

165 - 175 on all cylinders. You owe me one bandaid and about 1/3” of knuckle skin. How is it that it’s harder to change plugs on this truck than a Viper?! At least there’s only 8 of them and not 10.

This was cylinder 1. Slightly warm engine, all plugs removed, WOT during cranking.


Other questions…

No AFR gauge. Need to do that.

Vacuum is somewhat steady. +/- half an inch of mercury.

Hot start issues and the incredibly rich idle were fixed with the power valve change. Still fiddling with the choke, fast idle cam, and secondary air settings for cold starts.

 

Also, thanks for asking about Dad. It means a lot. This was supposed to be a surprise so he doesn't know a thing other than “I tinker on the truck now and then when I get time”. The surprise isn’t going to have the impact that it was supposed to have though. Dad’s in real bad shape. Parkinson’s is a nightmare, more so than most realize especially when it’s accompanied by the dementia that it can cause. Parkinson’s is like the Terminator. It never stops, it doesn’t get tired, it doesn’t listen to reason, and it doesn’t relent until you’re dead. I’m rushing against the clock to try and finish this thing before he doesn’t even know what it is. That evil disease is taking a heavy toll on all of us.

 

I don't like being in debt, so I just posted those off to you. Look out for a Fedex lorry.

I bet you're pleased with the 165-175 pressures.

At least now you know, with certainty, that the engine is healthy, and that the combination of engine components confirms nice high compressions (static and dynamic).

The vacuum gauge needle being steady is also a good sign.

Given the context of your Dad, Mr Viper Pilot Senior, the low vacuum can be ignored.

If the engine has to run at 875rpms at idle, so be it.

If the Wagner PCV helps, great.

I don't know you or your Dad, so my next comments are based on what I would do with my Dad.

I wouldn't wait any longer to show him the truck. (Hopefully your Dad lives close by.)

I'd show him what I've done so far, and I'd explain all of the details, like the electric fans and switch.

I'd like him with me, to watch, and chat, as I continue to dial in the engine etc.
Let's face it, it will be a surprise whether the truck can be driven or not, and I think the impact will be significant !!

You never know, his dopamine levels might rise a bit.

Maybe he can drive the truck soon, or maybe he can't, but he will certainly enjoy being a passenger I'm sure.

The following is probably too little too late, but I'd have his blood work comprehensively checked, including all minerals and vitamins.

Something as simple as increasing low magnesium levels could be beneficial. Or not.

I'd like him to walk at least one mile a day, if he can.

I'd make sure his food intake is nutritionally balanced, with low to no sugar intake, and no processed crap.

I would give him a 200mg CoQ10 supplement daily to boost his mitochondrial health.

Is your Dad taking any medication ?

Rushing against the clock decreases fun, and increases stress, which isn't good for anyone.

Yeah, I'd strike while the iron is hot and surprise him now, not later.

Make sure you or someone can take a photo of his reaction to the truck.

If your Mum is still alive, and with your Dad, imagine her reaction too.

 

Sorry to hear about your dad. My dad died with Parkinson's. It was a long, hard 8 years of rough symptoms, with a couple of early years of symptoms we didn't know what they were, except maybe age.

He didn't have dementia, but he could shake a hospital bed to pieces. Couldn't walk or even get out of bed for several years. He eventually got to the point he couldn't swallow. That is when the end quickly started.

People can live quite a long time with Parkinson's, which is not always a good thing. Parkinson's is very hard on the family as well. My mom had Alzheimer's at the same time dad had Parkinson's.

If he is still able to feel well enough, and able to understand about the truck, get it running and looking well enough to let him see it.

Wishing your dad and your family the best as you all live through this very difficult time.