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So I’ve just bought this truck f350 diesel and it’s lifted 8”.
the tires rub on suspension when wheels are turned not quit all the way. They look pretty stock the size of tires are
285. 75 R18. The previous owner said to get a 1 1/2” spacer for them and I checked napa nope only got 5/16”.
if this is correct where do I find one or am I better of getting different rims
for these tires-there like new. I’m not planning anything heave just my 4700lb boat for now. I really don’t like the looks of these rims but I’m not really doing any serious off roading either. How do I figure out what size after market wheel to go with these tires or do I just start over? Any help is appreciated a lot! I wouldn’t mind if they stuck out more maybe just get spacers?
here’s a pic. Thanks jon
You definitely don’t need 8” of lift for those height tires, a level would be plenty. Not sure how or why you bothered with Napa to determine wheel spacer, just pull a wheel and measure. It should have a 2” to run those wheels on the older axle in the normal position. And most importantly replace every single lug nut like now. Those wheels are hub centric and use a nut with the washer built in, the lug nuts being used are for aftermarket wheels that are lug centric. Pretty much asking for trouble.
Ok thanks for your response. The guy switched out the wider tires for these-and these we’re probably worth less than hi 37’s he had mounted. But he said these would be easier for road handling. I’m new to it. Can’t change lift just need to find right wheel and tire configuration. But these look like new so I might as well run em. I’ll buy two inch spacers for front and back I found some on internet. Thanks again
What he's saying is those lug nuts are sketchy. You NEED to go to the junk yard or the dealer and get a full set of stock lugnuts with the attached washers.
Wheel spacers can be found on ebay. You want billet spacers, not the cheapest set you can find, with REAL wheel studs, not all thread bolts thru the spacer.
Guy was an ahole for keeping the properly spaced wheels for the truck. He HAD to buy them because of the suspension, he knew you needed them. What a dirt bag.
+1
They look like the attached image. NOT beveled. Now if you were to get an aftermarket wheel you could use those lug nuts. I made that mistake of not using the correct lugnuts doing just how yours are on now. Factory 20" KR wheels w/39's, fortunately made it safely to shoulder with only one lug holding.
Also, not sure what diameter hub your make/model is, but I have 2-2" hubcentric spacers I took off of the front of my F250 as well as a pair of lug centric ones. I replaced these with a set of steel ones on the front.
The problem is that the wheels are completely wrong for your truck. The original wheel/tire combo was 265/75r16 on a 16x7 +6.35mm offset. The new wheels are 285/75r18 on a 18x8 +40mm offset. In about 2005, Ford changed the Super Duties to have the higher offset wheels (they sat more center to the truck). Ford also changed the entire front suspension of the trucks from leaf to coil springs and the hubs sat slightly further out allowing for the larger backspaced wheels. In the end it really wasn't noticeable until someone put a high offset wheel on a truck intended for basically a 0 offset wheel. They tucked a lot!
This said, no extravagant lift height will prevent the current wheels and tires from rubbing. Here are a few thoughts based on the stock set up vs current set up:
The original 265/75r16 = 31.6"x10.4" and the current 285/75r16 = 34.8"x11.2". The new tires are much taller and slightly wider.
The original wheels for the truck have a 6.35mm positive offset and the new have a 40mm positive offset on a wider wheel.
Why do all these numbers mean anything?
You've got a leaf spring front suspension with the leaves being the rub points. The wider tire 11.2-10.4 = .8"/2 = the tire is .4" closer to the springs.
The offset and width difference in the wheels creates more or less backspacing. In this case, the inner rim lip (closest to the center of the vehicle) on the current 8" wide, +40mm wheels sits 46.7mm (1.84") closer to the leaves.
Add up 1.83"+ .4" = the inner side of of the tire is 2.23" closer to the leaf spring than the stock wheel/tires.
The overall tire diameter adds 1.6" more radius from the hub that will cause rubbing. (34.8"-31.6"= 3.2". 3.2"/2= 1.6")
In the grand scheme of things, the previous owner did a major disservice to you putting that size wheels/tires on the truck. With the 8" lift, taller & wider tires, and wheels that are sucked in 1.83" more than stock on each side, I would have a lot of concern regarding the stability of the truck. The general rule is that for each inch you go up in height, the trackwidth is pushed out. This creates more stability. In this case, the previous owner did opposite by adding 8" of height and then narrowing the track width substantially.
The one positive thing out of this is that you have good tires on that truck. The Open Range AT's are a house brand tire for Les Schwab and are absolutely great. I have them on my F250 and they have been outstanding in all driving conditions and for towing.
To really correct this situation, you're looking at a new set of wheels and lug nuts. To help widen the stance and make the tires to appear more fitting to the truck, go with something like a 18x10 with a -19mm offset.
If you like the wheels, just get some 2" spacers. Make sure they're billet and use actual wheel studs. Otherwise find rims new you like in the size clarkbre suggested. That truck really needs a 36-38" tire to look right, there's wayyyyy to much fender gap.
It's hard to tell from the pics, but i think i see all kinds of hack. On top of the incorrect rims and lug nuts, your brake lines look really tight, like they didn't install extended length lines to compensate for the lift. I'd at least cut the zip tie holding it tight to the frame to give it a little more play for now. I think I see the factory rear block bump stop tab halfway between the axle and the frame..does that thing have stacked rear blocks? That's sketchy with that much lift, it should be a single block, preferably with a traction bar. And those dual front shocks are complete overkill, those front leaves don't have the travel to require those shocks, I bet you're way overdampend, and it has a jarring ride. Are they even a name brand shock? If you took one of those off , it'd probably ride better. It looks like they put a drop track bar bracket on..but at that lift height it should be reinforce better, I bet that thing flexes under acceleration and braking.
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Tires and wheels
