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Electric Cooling Fan Temp Sensor Options

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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 07:07 AM
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Electric Cooling Fan Temp Sensor Options

Now that I'm going will nilly rewiring every bad thing in the truck this week, I may as well tackle the electric fan. Previous owner connected it, it works, but it's a little janky. There's currently no circuit breaker installed, and I don't love the location of the relay, so I figure I'll re-do it since it's a balmy 15 degrees outside.

I don't have any open sensor ports on my intake, so I'm considering using the Mishimoto Coolant Pipe Adaptor. Would love to hear any experiences you may have had before I do it. I'm a little hesitant to cut a radiator hose in half if these things suck.


Here's what I'm talking about.


Picture for description. Not my vehicle.


 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 07:22 AM
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What engine?

I'm not a fan of splitting coolant hoses for temp sensors, or flush ports. It just introduces two new potential leak points. What about swapping out the thermostat housing for one that has a port in it?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 07:27 AM
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351 Windsor.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too, but I also don't want to tap my intake, my other ports are being used.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 07:39 AM
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I wouldn't want to drill and tap the intake either. Unless there's a blank boss there to use.

Another option is to use the petcock port in the radiator. I hate a petcock anyway and always replace them with a plug or zinc anode. If you use that port, you'll probably need an adjustable temp controller, since the coolant will be colder there.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 08:00 AM
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That's an interesting idea, not a fan of draining the coolant, but certainly a decent option, the sensors I've seen available turn the fan on at 180° and turn it off at 170°. Wonder what the difference in temp would be between the intake and the petcock.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 08:21 AM
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I don't know what the diff would be. But I can find out later today. I'll drive my truck around til it's up to normal operating temp, then use laser thermometer on both radiator hoses.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 10:47 AM
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Did a quick Google search, from what I'm seeing, looks like it may be around +20°. That may throw me too far off because I'd have to run at 200°, (which I don't) to have the fan come on at what the petcock would read as around 180°. If it was a 10° swing or less, I think I could tolerate that...But it's also 13° outside right now.

 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pcompton
Did a quick Google search, from what I'm seeing, looks like it may be around +20°. That may throw me too far off because I'd have to run at 200°, (which I don't) to have the fan come on at what the petcock would read as around 180°. If it was a 10° swing or less, I think I could tolerate that...But it's also 13° outside right now.
I just tested it and you're right, that ain't gonna work. I had 85 degree difference between upper and lower radiator hose.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ranger140892
I just tested it and you're right, that ain't gonna work. I had 85 degree difference between upper and lower radiator hose.

Yikes....That would be a problem. Thanks for the help.

I was just out rewiring the fan, and noticed that there is a closed bung on the rear of the Edelbrock intake, so I think I may be good to go with that. Trying to find the model of intake now. (Previous owner installed)
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 03:28 PM
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Maybe consider one of these :

https://www.americanvolt.com/collect...read-grounding
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 6 by 8
Those are sweet, to be able to choose the temp. Unfortunatley. the lowest one is 125 degrees, and if there's an 80+° difference, the fan still won't light up.

Maybe I can find a TEE that will work off my existing temp sensor location.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 04:38 PM
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Hmmm, 125* is too low, and the difference of 80* sounds too high.

The 20* range that you mentioned earlier sounds correct to be honest.

I had a switch similar to one of these in my radiator when I first bought the truck, and if memory serves me it was wired via a power wire, as opposed to a ground wire :



It's a lot wider than the OE 1/4 '' NPT, so some customizing must have been done to fit it.

Anyway, my point is that the on/off range was 20*, and the cooling temps behaved as they should have.

Switches need to be at the lower cooler end of the radiator, and not the upper hotter side where the temp sensor is located, assuming that's where yours is located.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 07:12 PM
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I've been using the rad. hose sensor for more than 10 years w/o issue. I like the BMW two speed sensors b/c you can purchase the 90* elec cap, and that looks way better than most caps I've seen. Beck/Arnley also makes two speed sensors. You can ck some of the 'Taurus fan swap' vids on youtube for the temp ratings of diff sensors. I like to have the ground activated system so if the sensor fails I pull the low speed lead and shove it on the ground terminal and drive home with the fan on low. Better than walking.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 09:04 AM
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I don't know if this will help you, but I was adding an electric temp sensor, but already had a mechanical one in the thermostat housing. I found a plug in the water pump just off the alternator that I was able to open and adapter a new sensor into.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 10:31 AM
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I forgot to add a tidbit of info in my last post. I don't mean to step on anyone's toes here, but I would not install the sensor in the radiator petcock plug. You want where it can sense the temp of the coolant exiting the block through the thermostat. For that reason it is traditionally installed in the thermo housing, in the upper rad. hose, or close to the upper hose fitting on the radiator. At the bottom of the radiator is a bad choice. That location will not be the temp of the coolant leaving the block.
 
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