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Reading error codes on a 93 150 without a scanner

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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 12:16 PM
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What trans do you have?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2022 | 09:23 PM
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E4OD that's not very happy at the moment
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 10:58 AM
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So I'm trying to figure out the "vehicle not in Park" error code 654. looking at the pictures of the MLPS online and mine does not look like the others it has a white cover not black and no markings for Neutral or the alignment mark it is to be matched to. But when I put it in reverse the back up lights do indeed come on which seems to be the point of the alignment. Can I assume it is aligned correctly but has failed? It definitely shares the same symptoms others have listed such as random shifting between gears, won't go into 4th unless you shift from second to Drive etc.

Thx in advance for any advice
 
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Old Feb 27, 2022 | 02:11 PM
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Ohms testing for MLPS

 
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Old Feb 28, 2022 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by coneheads
So I'm trying to figure out the "vehicle not in Park" error code 654. looking at the pictures of the MLPS online and mine does not look like the others it has a white cover not black and no markings for Neutral or the alignment mark it is to be matched to.

The alignment marks are behind the shift lever arm.




Alignment marks
 
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Old Feb 28, 2022 | 07:41 AM
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looks like it is covered by the connecting arm that explains why I cant see it. I am going to ohm it out this afternoon, it seems to be aligned right the back up lights come on as they should. I'm going out to the junk yard tomorrow so if it's bad I can take my meter and try to find a good one. There's a '95 there that appears to have both original fuel pump modules at least the wire harness doesn't have a connector in it like most replacements seem to have. I still can't make the aftermarket modules I bought operate normally. The front module pumps all the fuel to the back tank and the fuel level sender doesn't work at all the rear pump works right but the level sender on that one swings wildly from top to bottom. So I thought I would try to get these originals clean them up and see if I can get them working correctly.

Thx Andy
 
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Old Feb 28, 2022 | 07:59 AM
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1995 and later trucks have a different MLPS connector. If you go that route cut off the connector on the donor 1995. If you find your MLPS is bad then swap the 1995 connector shell onto the 1993 wires/pins when you install the newer MLPS.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2022 | 01:24 PM
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Thanks for the heads up, I'll try the earlier trucks first but if the '95 is the only one it doesn't sound too difficult
 
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Old Feb 28, 2022 | 02:32 PM
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Some info in this thread and the document attached for how to swap the pins: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...am-needed.html
 
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Old Mar 4, 2022 | 02:39 PM
  #25  
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Haven't been able to make any sense of the MLPS Ohm readings yet, tried an auto ranging meter and it just kept searching so went to non auto ranging meter and still couldn't get any readings that made sense. Might just have to but a new one and see if it gets rid of the vehicle not in Park code.
I did snag the two fuel pumps out of the Junk yard, not a fun job. Couple of hours rolling around in oil, gas, broken glass, bits of metal etc. Lol So I decided that since they had not been changed they must have been working when it was scrapped. Both pumps still had gas sitting in them so I didn't think the insides would be all gummed up with parafin and all the stuff gas leaves behind when it evaporates. So I put the front unit in and still no gas so I start trying to find out why and found out that there was only 6.7 volts coming into the pump module. So I go look at the fuel tank selector and with the connector unhooked still 6.7 on the red which is the front fuel pump power and zero on the brown and white which is the rear power but the rear pump is working. And 6.7 on the inertia switch lead, not sure if this lead should be zero or 12 volts seems like it should be one or the other not 6.7 volts. should I try to run 12 volts straight to the front pump to see if it starts running?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thx Andy
 
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Old Mar 4, 2022 | 03:17 PM
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Power is applied to the fuel pump via the fuel pump relay for 1-2 seconds when you cycle the key from the Off to Run position. This is a pre-programmed function in the computer (PCM). This means you will only get power for 1-2 seconds when you turn the key to Run then power drops out. To keep the fuel pump relay energized jumper Pins 2 & 6 on the diagnostic port then turn the key to the Run position. The fuel pump relay will remain energized (that means power will be applied to the fuel pump) until you turn the key to the Off position. Th 6.7 VDC your DVM is displaying is the fuel pump monitor feedback to the computer.

Pins 2 & 6 on the diagnostic port:

Attachment 277274

Attachment 277275


courtesy of Subford
 
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Old Mar 4, 2022 | 04:34 PM
  #27  
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Spot on as usual Sir, solid 12 volts on both with the jumper in place. I guess Ill be pulling the module back out to try and get it operating.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2022 | 05:47 PM
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Just thinking out loud, with foot firmly on brake pedal, andmove shifter into each gear, see if it tries to start, should try to start in park and neutral.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2022 | 05:42 AM
  #29  
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It does start in Park and Neutral but runs like crap which is a recent development. When I started working on it the fuel delivery was really the only pressing issue. The new ECM solved that but started misfiring like crazy since the ECM swap, I tried repairing the original ECM and put it back in but it still has the fuel issue and now has the same intermittent misfire as well. Hopefully a new MLPS will clear the 654 vehicle not in park code and I can move on to the other issues.

Thx Andy
 
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 04:52 PM
  #30  
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Well I got my new MLPS, switched over to the 95 style connector swapped the R/W and Black pins per the instructions. Took her for a drive and she is running better (but not perfect) and she is shifting better (but not perfect, still doesn't like to shift into 4th). So I put the code reader back on and got the exact same codes 654 on the KOEO code and 634 and 332 on the continuous code. Still points to a bad MLPS even though it seems to have made a fairly big improvement in how the truck runs and drives.

Double checked the wire colors, none of the pins have pushed back up into the connector they seem to be in position correctly. So I'll take the improvement and keep trying to figure out why the code didn't change.
 
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