Takes:
1. Cleaned out tank using muriatic acid. Although it was a smoking try , I failed to rinse and dry quickly. New rust formed which caused the POR to peel. If done correctly, this would’ve been the best option as we coated the old tank exterior with rubberized under coating. Now I have an RV Cummins oil drain pan?”.

2. Ordered Spectra tank from Amazon. This was an old, tried tank with multiple scraps dents and weld splitting.

3. Ordered a SpectraPremium tank from EBay. Received with small dents as it is very thin walled, but it is primed with a shiny grey. We added some AutoZone “Boom Mat” for anti-rattle/anti-chafe, and are finishing up the install.
we are struggling with installing a new roll-over vent grommet (not found at any part stores other than Ford dealer/EBay/Amazon.

Can’t wait to get Ole Balu on the road!




This comes with 4 precut pieces. We installed 2 on top, “ripped” one into two for the bottom, and have one left over for other squeaks, creaks, or water leaks.

 

The roll-over vent grommet use a little oil or liquid soap on it.
I think I installed the rubber first then lubed the valve & grommet and pushed in the valve.
I did this x2 and had no issues.

BTW I got the grommet from either LMC or Dennis Carpenter think LMC with new valves.
I used new rubber hose from valves to the metal lines that run up to the canister(s) under the battery for fumes.

As for cleaning and coating the inside of the tanks I am not a fan of because if not done 110% right the coating can come off and cause problems.
Dave ----

 

We will have the opportunity to replace that vent hose and try the soapy water to install the vent valve. This is because we have the rear 19 gallon sending unit installed, so we’ll install the correct 16 gallon sending unit tomorrow.
Teaching my son about verifying parts as son as they arrive.

 

For the top vent remove as a unit. Install the rubber doughnut first, then valve pops right in. I didn't need soap.

 

that isnt a spectra made tank. I bought that type off ebay seller trying to pass it off as a spectra tank.
It's asian and it isn't the same kind of steel used by spectra . Why does it make a difference?
spectra uses a ni-tern metal that is a lot more resistant to rusting, That asian tank is straight sheet metal with some sort of paint on the outside.
Spectra doesn't paint their tanks.

 

I have dual tanks on my diesel 6.9l. When the rear tank needed replacement I could not bear to be without that second tank. I go camping in BC Canada pretty often and diesel up there is not cheap. So having enough range to avoid the high prices there has been nice. Also when visiting California their diesel is VLS and it's expensive as well. So having some cheap diesel from Oregon on board also saves money increases mileage.

So consider your reason for going dual. If you need the range alot then having the capacity makes sense. But if it's only occasionally needed you might want to consider a couple jerry cans strapped in somewhere.

Once you've had dual tanks it is hard to think about not having them. With diesel it's really nice to have them when you forget how low on fuel you were on one of your tanks and you're running out you can flip the switch quickly for a recovery. Running out with diesel is a pain because now you have air in your system.

So think it over on the dual tank set up. You may decide it isn't worth the expense and time to do a "Dave" on your flareside.

 

Thanks all for the input. I don’t believe this truck has realty been in the road for a decade or two.
After double checking the first tank I purchased was a SpectraPremium with an etched type finish. Unfortunately that one was received fairly beat up, so it was returned. The second tank, pre painted and now installed, was a no name. The sheet metal is extremely thin, but it is working fine.
This truck with be for short trips only, so a single tank will be fine. I do wish there was alternate fill pluming to use the one existing flareside fill door to connect a rear 19 or 38 gallon tank though.

 

I have not looked into it as I am that "Dave" that added the rear tank and fiber glassed in a rear door but maybe leave the filler tucked up inside the rear side of the fender?
You would need to put the nozzle in through the wheel opening to fill it.
This is what my rear fill looks like with the flare side door glassed in looking in from the wheel opening.

You might be able to point the hose to the front for the nozzle to fit. Might need a bracket off the frame to hold the hose up.

Then again no one side you have to glass the rear door into the fender. You could work out something like on the older pick ups where they did not have a door, the cap was just there. If you were to put the hole & mount it like that I would put it in the location the door would go this way if down the road you want to add the door you would be cutting out that hole.
Dave ----

 

Using the "Boom Mat" at the strap locations looks good. What is that big plastic shoe on one end? Did the tank come like that or did you add that?

 

Yes I also wondered about that boot?
Dont think I have seen it on any truck.
Dave ----

 

That plastic boot/cap was on the original tank, so we just slid it onto the new tank.

 

First I've seen of one of those. A nice protective addition to the front of the tank. I have a skid plate on my midship tank that does the same thing basically, protects the front from sand and gravel.

I keep a coat of Fluid-Film on midship tank as well. (Actually a coat of Fluid-Film on pretty much the entire truck).

I think with the peel and stick boom mat you won't have to worry about moisture getting under it causing potential corrosion. But the slip on boot while good as a shield may provide a place for moisture and or salt to reside. If I was you I'd put a generous coat of Fluid-Film between the boot and tank. And a light coat elsewhere on the tank. But that's me...

 

That "shoe" is where junk likes to get trapped and rust out the tank. But it does protect it from rocks flying up and punching a hole in the tank.