Glow plug controller

Never seen the inside of one of these

 

Noticr the scaley rust. Its only on the push rod end of the rockers and a cpl inches down the push rod

 

Right side was unremarkable but left side looked like this

Yuck! The 2nd cyl from front on left bank

Yuck! Close up

Did I just buy $600 of scrap metal?
What would cause the pushrod end on rockers and one cyl to look like this?
Could this be a hole in the cylinder wall from cavitation?
I haven't removed the oil pan yet but all the oil in the filter and other places looked ok. Not milky no water in oil that I can see.

I am out of town until Thursday or Friday, so it will sit like this till the weekend. I wiped the cylinder out pretty well and coated it with (sontex) lightweight oil.
Any thoughts appreciated,

 

I forgot to add that after the right head was removed it turns just fine. Seems like the bottom end is in good shape. Just spinning it with a breaker bar on balancer bolt.

 

It`s good it will turn over. Could be the Head gasket or cavitation.
Think the cavitation happens to the rear cylinder`s more often from
what I have read. If it is, it can be sleeved, not uncommon to do this.

Since you will be gone, I would lower that cylinder and pour in some
penetrating oil, Marvel Mystery oil etc....and let it soak down around
the Rings. You do not want them to rust.
You can save it.

I pulled a 7.3 from an 89 out of PNP. end of Oct. we had day and half
of rain few days before. I pulled the GP`s in the yard and rotated the engine.
Looked like a sprinkler shootin water. Air Cleaner had been removed.
Got it home and imedately filled ea cyl with MM Oil, let soak and turned
it over. did this several times.
Catch it early you can save it. I use a $ Store Meat Syringe to inject the
oil.
https://dollarclearance.com/product/291

Let us know how it goes.


Charlie

 

Charmaine

I filled it sontex......it's a lightweight refrigerant oil I use at work. Works great on air tools and they buy it in 500gal pallets.

I am glad to hear that cavitation is mostly on rear cylinders. Even with both the I injectors and glow plugs removed that sludge was so thick it would not let it come all the way to TDC.

I am planning to keep posting on this thread as I tear it down and build it back up.

Thanks for all the input
Sean

 

Keep us updated, looking at rebuilding my 7.3 which will be my first teardown. Interested in what you'll fine.

 

1. Glowplugs came right out. Were not swelled up from overheating and looked almost new.
2. Injectors and the Injection pump looked pretty good for the age of the engine.
3. Water pump was replaced not long before it was scrapped. Still clean new silicone on gasket surface and still had paper tag/sticker on it.
4. The pistons are stamped with an uppercase A or B in the center of them. Also, they have other markings but I did not notice an oversize stamp (.010;.020;.030etc.) on them
5. The intake showed no signs of water inside it like I would expect if the water entered #4(?) cylinder thru an open Intake valve.
6. I did not mark the balancer to show where it started and where it locked up. Not sure this would help any, pretty obvious that it could not compress the sludge on top of the cylinder and even with
the glow plug and injector removed it was too thick to push out. My guess is #4 was on the compression stroke. If anyone has a better theory bring it on and we can all mull it over.
7. Is it possible it has already been sleeved? Well, I suppose I know it's possible but from the top of the cylinders, it looked like there might be a sleeve. I spent more time than I really had to spare
Sunday night getting the heads off but after pulling the rocker arms on Saturday and ruling out a stuck valve I knew it would bug me all week while I was out of town if I did not find out why it was
locking up. Just looking at the top of the cylinders and with no clean-up of the decks it looked like there might be sleeves in the cylinders. It can kind of be seen in the pictures also.
8. The turbo seems to be in good shape. I has very little play along the axis and none perpedicular to it.
9. I have rebuilt/overhauled +/- 50 engines in the last 35 years but they have all been gasoline engines. This will be my first diesel to completely tear down. I was actually working as a mechanic
at a ford dealership when the truck this engine came from was new. We did several dealer install turbos but I was mainly doing driveability and alignments. This truck was a factory turbo
according to the VIN and was supposedly "runs good" before it sat for a couple of years.

Anyhow, theese are my thoughts from a couple hundred miles away from home. Any input will be greatly appreciated. I am hopeing to lean on this forum pretty hard to get this truck back on the road and healthy.

 

It’ll be interesting to see what the cylinder wall looks like when it’s cleaned up. Fingers crossed it’s not cavitation.

That’s super cool you worked at Ford when these engines were coming out, I always thought it would have been awesome to see a dealer lot full of turbo IDIs and obs PSDs

 

Charlie - Can't you just remove the injectors and slowly pour Marvel Mystery Oil in a small funnel into the injector cavities? I need to do this to my 6.9.

 

Cyl looks pretty beat up;

Pitted pretty bad from the rust

Same

same

same

Anyone knows what the A and other marking mean pls let me know..6 pistons have A stamp 2 have B other numbers are same...Factory pistons?

Piston cleaned up

 

Yes you could.
Removing the Injectors, you will have to also remover the Return Lines.
Replacing the injectors, you will need to replace the Copper Washers.
replacing the Return Lines, at a minimum you will need to replace the
"O" Rings on the Injectors.

Using a Funnel could be messy with spillage. Using the Syringe there is
no spillage, stick the needle in the GP hole and slowly inject the MM Oil.
The Syringe is only $1.00 at the $ store.

My Engine is setting on the Shop floor so everything is easy to get to. It
is not all that difficult to remove the GP`s.
I don`t know what your situation is.

I originally used the Syringe after I replace the rear Fuel Tank to a 38 gallon,
and replaced the Fuel Switch valve. Removing the Fuel Lines they drained.
I used the Syringe to fill the supply line from the tank to the valve so I didn`t
have to deal with an air issue starting the Engine.
Same thing 2 weeks ago when I replaced the Lift Pump. I replaced the steel
line from Pump to Filter with a rubber hose, used Syringe to fill line before
attaching it to the Filter.


Charlie

 

Thanks, Charlie. I can see how handy these can be; ordered a few from Amazon.

Scott

 

Haven`t looked at amazon, bet they are more than a $1.
They hole in the needle is on the side, just snip off the end of the needle.

Charlie

 

Yep. Definitely more than $1, but I was looking for some without a needle, larger sizes.