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hello, I am French my truck is f250 7.5l 1984, I have a problem with the voltage regulator, I changed my alternator and the regulator. the battery does not charge, is it a bad connection? Thank you
One quick thing I've noticed is your inner fender appears to be newly painted. The voltage regulator is grounded via the inner fender. With fresh paint, the regulator may not be getting a good ground. In addition, the inner fender itself was never well grounded, even when first built. It relies on metal-to-metal contact where it attaches to the frame, and corrosion often builds up there.
So for a quick test, fabricate ground jumpers between the regulator base, the battery (-) terminal, and the alternator case. See if that helps.
To ground the alternator case, look for an unused screw hole somewhere. You can attach a wire with a ring eye terminal there.
I'm not positive a bad ground will prevent charging. This fault typically causes overcharging, but it's easy enough to rule out.
1. The large terminal at the back of the alternator with the nut on top. With the engine off, make sure you have battery voltage there.
2. On the regulator there should be a lightgreen/red wire. Usually on the "S" terminal but can be on the "I" terminal also. Whichever it is, turn the key to run but do not start the engine. You should have 12v on this wire.
I'm no expert like the two guys above, but, is that starter solenoid wired correctly ? Shouldn't that red (black on yours) be on the left side of the solenoid ? I assume that is the + battery cable ? https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/battery-cables.html
1. The large terminal at the back of the alternator with the nut on top. With the engine off, make sure you have battery voltage there.
2. On the regulator there should be a lightgreen/red wire. Usually on the "S" terminal but can be on the "I" terminal also. Whichever it is, turn the key to run but do not start the engine. You should have 12v on this wire.
ok thank you all, I changed my regulator and the battery charges well😃 but the needle moves and the lights have power drops🤔? Could the regulator be of poor quality?
1. The large terminal at the back of the alternator with the nut on top. With the engine off, make sure you have battery voltage there.
2. On the regulator there should be a lightgreen/red wire. Usually on the "S" terminal but can be on the "I" terminal also. Whichever it is, turn the key to run but do not start the engine. You should have 12v on this wire.
ok thank you all, I changed my regulator and the battery charges well😃 but the needle moves and the lights have power drops🤔? Could the regulator be of poor quality?
If you bring the RPM up to say 2000 RPM the lights (head lights) will get brighter and if you have a meter on the battery should see the volts come up to 13.5 to 14.5 as this is the normal range.
At idle the volts may be 13.5 to 13 volts and why you have to bring the RPM up to check the ALT out put, again this is normal with our charging systems.
Dave ----
If you bring the RPM up to say 2000 RPM the lights (head lights) will get brighter and if you have a meter on the battery should see the volts come up to 13.5 to 14.5 as this is the normal range.
At idle the volts may be 13.5 to 13 volts and why you have to bring the RPM up to check the ALT out put, again this is normal with our charging systems.
Dave ----
the volts is 14.4 to 15.3, and even at 2000rpm the lights vary
the volts is 14.4 to 15.3, and even at 2000rpm the lights vary
Then it sound like a ground issue.
I would start at the battery and work out from there. Pull all connections and clean.
If me and the cables are old I would replace them at they could be bad but cant see this by looking at them, it inside the cables.
The neg. of the battery should go to the motor and a cable to the frame. Some use the same cable from battery - frame - motor like my 300 six motor dose.
Run a 10 gauge wire from battery to the inner fender to it is grounded and this should also ground the REG if it has a good connection were it is bolted.
Also run a 10 gauge wire from the block to the firewall. This will ground the cab as the cab is mounted on rubber mounts.
Out back you may want to run a 10 gauge wire from the bed to the frame to ground the bed as it is mounted on rubber also.
With all them grounds with good clean connections if you still have a issue then I would look back at the ALT / REG but the ground side needs looking / fixing first. That may even fix that 15.3 over charging issue as that will cook the battery over time.
Dave ----
Then it sound like a ground issue.
I would start at the battery and work out from there. Pull all connections and clean.
If me and the cables are old I would replace them at they could be bad but cant see this by looking at them, it inside the cables.
The neg. of the battery should go to the motor and a cable to the frame. Some use the same cable from battery - frame - motor like my 300 six motor dose.
Run a 10 gauge wire from battery to the inner fender to it is grounded and this should also ground the REG if it has a good connection were it is bolted.
Also run a 10 gauge wire from the block to the firewall. This will ground the cab as the cab is mounted on rubber mounts.
Out back you may want to run a 10 gauge wire from the bed to the frame to ground the bed as it is mounted on rubber also.
With all them grounds with good clean connections if you still have a issue then I would look back at the ALT / REG but the ground side needs looking / fixing first. That may even fix that 15.3 over charging issue as that will cook the battery over time.
Dave ----
Thanks, I'll take a look at that then.
Best regards.
Emmanuel
Hi, When I turn on the ignition the charging needle goes straight to the right and when I start the engine. The needle goes from left to right and moves quickly is this normal
Thanks, I'll take a look at that then.
Best regards.
Emmanuel
Hi, When I turn on the ignition the charging needle goes straight to the right and when I start the engine. The needle goes from left to right and moves quickly is this normal
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Then it sound like a ground issue.
I would start at the battery and work out from there. Pull all connections and clean.
If me and the cables are old I would replace them at they could be bad but cant see this by looking at them, it inside the cables.
The neg. of the battery should go to the motor and a cable to the frame. Some use the same cable from battery - frame - motor like my 300 six motor dose.
Run a 10 gauge wire from battery to the inner fender to it is grounded and this should also ground the REG if it has a good connection were it is bolted.
Also run a 10 gauge wire from the block to the firewall. This will ground the cab as the cab is mounted on rubber mounts.
Out back you may want to run a 10 gauge wire from the bed to the frame to ground the bed as it is mounted on rubber also.
With all them grounds with good clean connections if you still have a issue then I would look back at the ALT / REG but the ground side needs looking / fixing first. That may even fix that 15.3 over charging issue as that will cook the battery over time.
Dave ----
Hi, When I turn on the ignition the charging needle goes straight to the right and when I start the engine. The needle goes from left to right and moves quickly is this normal
Hi, When I turn on the ignition the charging needle goes straight to the right and when I start the engine. The needle goes from left to right and moves quickly is this normal
Are you still running the factory AMP gauge or one of the converted amp gauge to read VOLTS?
If factory then you would hardly ever see the AMP gauge move.
Also are you running the newer 3G ALT and not the factory ALT?
If so did you rewire the shunt for the AMP gauge?
Dave -----
Are you still running the factory AMP gauge or one of the converted amp gauge to read VOLTS?
If factory then you would hardly ever see the AMP gauge move.
Also are you running the newer 3G ALT and not the factory ALT?
If so did you rewire the shunt for the AMP gauge?
Dave -----
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