5th Wheel vs Goose neck
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5th Wheel vs Goose neck
I would like to know which is the better hitch setup and if you could tell me a few things.
Which hitch you use?
How long and wieght of Trailer?
How many axles and rating in Lbs.
What kind of truck you pull with SRW or DRW ,long or short bed crew cab or not.
Is the truck lifted or not and tire and wheel size.
Does your trailer sway at any speeds.
Thanks for your help Don
Which hitch you use?
How long and wieght of Trailer?
How many axles and rating in Lbs.
What kind of truck you pull with SRW or DRW ,long or short bed crew cab or not.
Is the truck lifted or not and tire and wheel size.
Does your trailer sway at any speeds.
Thanks for your help Don
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oxford, Alabama
5th Wheel
After doing some research my self I went this way, hope it helps.
1. I prefere the 5th wheel, because its easier to hook up. and to me just seems a little more solid. some may dissagree but just my take.
2. Pull a 35' 5th wheel camper weighs right at 12125 #.
3. Tandem axel. and the rating I'm not sure about but I think its somthing like 8600 each.
4. Pull it with a DRW, long bed SC.
5. Truck is basic stock. no lift or drop, although I am considering a 2" replacement block for the rear to level out the camper. Seems easier than raising the axels on the camper.
6. Currently with about 4K miles pulling this camper I havn't had any sway. Keeping the trailer level is really part of this one but thought that I would just throw that in..
Hope that this will help. Some of the other guys will have some additional input that may give you a little diffrent idea.
Forgot one little item. I am still considering the B&W hitch system because I like the clean bed and also you can do both. Ya never know if I might want to get into somthing else sometime.. but with a 350 I have the option..
1. I prefere the 5th wheel, because its easier to hook up. and to me just seems a little more solid. some may dissagree but just my take.
2. Pull a 35' 5th wheel camper weighs right at 12125 #.
3. Tandem axel. and the rating I'm not sure about but I think its somthing like 8600 each.
4. Pull it with a DRW, long bed SC.
5. Truck is basic stock. no lift or drop, although I am considering a 2" replacement block for the rear to level out the camper. Seems easier than raising the axels on the camper.
6. Currently with about 4K miles pulling this camper I havn't had any sway. Keeping the trailer level is really part of this one but thought that I would just throw that in..
Hope that this will help. Some of the other guys will have some additional input that may give you a little diffrent idea.
Forgot one little item. I am still considering the B&W hitch system because I like the clean bed and also you can do both. Ya never know if I might want to get into somthing else sometime.. but with a 350 I have the option..
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: OK
Depends on the what kind of hitch the trailer has. 
Seriously, if it's a fifth-wheel trailer, I've heard several stories of breakage after converting it to a goose-neck hitch. Seems the trailer's fifth-wheel pin plate isn't always designed to withstand the increased leverage applied by the extended "neck".
To answer your questions:
I use a Reese 5th-wheel to pull my RV. They also have a goose-neck plate that uses the same mounting brackets. Just pull the 5'er hitch and slap in the goose-neck ball plate.
Trailer is 27' and weighs about 10,000# (has 11,500 GVWR).
Tandem axles with 5200# rating (remember 20-25% of the trailer weight is on the hitch). Axle height is adjustable on trailer frame and the axles are Dexter w/Never-lub hubs.
Currently use the F250 in my signature- no lift, 235/85-R16 tires. I've also towed this same RV with a 2001 F350 SRW with 285/75-R16 tires.
Haven't towed a lot with this truck but what little I have towed has been very comfortable. No "bucking" or sway to speak of. Trailer has always pulled great behind other trucks I've owned.
Seriously, if it's a fifth-wheel trailer, I've heard several stories of breakage after converting it to a goose-neck hitch. Seems the trailer's fifth-wheel pin plate isn't always designed to withstand the increased leverage applied by the extended "neck".
To answer your questions:
I use a Reese 5th-wheel to pull my RV. They also have a goose-neck plate that uses the same mounting brackets. Just pull the 5'er hitch and slap in the goose-neck ball plate.
Trailer is 27' and weighs about 10,000# (has 11,500 GVWR).
Tandem axles with 5200# rating (remember 20-25% of the trailer weight is on the hitch). Axle height is adjustable on trailer frame and the axles are Dexter w/Never-lub hubs.
Currently use the F250 in my signature- no lift, 235/85-R16 tires. I've also towed this same RV with a 2001 F350 SRW with 285/75-R16 tires.
Haven't towed a lot with this truck but what little I have towed has been very comfortable. No "bucking" or sway to speak of. Trailer has always pulled great behind other trucks I've owned.
New User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Oregon Coast
I would agree with NoMo that what ever the trailer has leave it. I have the gooseneck system on my horse trailer and have no problems, of course this is what i'm used to. My truck is 2003 F-350 6.0 6spd 4x4 with SRW and 3.73 LS. Horse trailer is 4 horse American steel that frequently weighs 11,000 lbs loaded. As for sway, some times the horses will get to moving but with the hitch in the bed (gooseneck or fifth wheel) the trailer does not affect the truck anything like a bumperpull does, and usually only know by seeing it in the mirrors.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 158
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From: Hornbeck, LA
Here's my answer:
Go with both, I did!! Pull the fifth wheel hitch off the rails and in goes the goose neck!
Goose Neck is about $178
Universal rail kit is about $88
15k lbs fifth wheel is about $320
Go with both, I did!! Pull the fifth wheel hitch off the rails and in goes the goose neck!
Goose Neck is about $178
Universal rail kit is about $88
15k lbs fifth wheel is about $320
Last edited by MarkF250; Nov 5, 2003 at 06:34 PM.
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Thanks guys for all the help I have found this site real helpful.
Jim I got the idea to post this after looking at your pics (NICE RIG)
and yes the B&W is one that I have been told was a good one and it can do both 5th & Goose. I have a pull behind 3 axle 27 foot enclosed car trailer about 12,000 lbs loaded with two sand cars, I had to put on the load bars and the antisway cams to stop the sway. I am planning to build a new custom (5th/goose) trailer so that why I posted before they build. The company is Santek Trailers in So Cal and they will build whatever I want so my goal is 38-40 foot two slides (one in bedroom and one in living room)(one more in living area would be great but worrie about wieght) 15 foot garage/bedroom for sand car. All the other normal stuff like two roof a/c, two gas tanks with pumping station one 40 gal for race fuel one 30 gal for pump gas and 7.5 gen, air comp, furnace, roof top platform with fold down rails, all this on three 7 lbs axles and should be about 14,000 lbs. My truck is a 03 6.0 4x4 crew cab short bed, power doesnt bother me it the fact that the truck is lighter than the trailer that worries me.
Thanks again for all the replies guys Don.
Jim I got the idea to post this after looking at your pics (NICE RIG)
and yes the B&W is one that I have been told was a good one and it can do both 5th & Goose. I have a pull behind 3 axle 27 foot enclosed car trailer about 12,000 lbs loaded with two sand cars, I had to put on the load bars and the antisway cams to stop the sway. I am planning to build a new custom (5th/goose) trailer so that why I posted before they build. The company is Santek Trailers in So Cal and they will build whatever I want so my goal is 38-40 foot two slides (one in bedroom and one in living room)(one more in living area would be great but worrie about wieght) 15 foot garage/bedroom for sand car. All the other normal stuff like two roof a/c, two gas tanks with pumping station one 40 gal for race fuel one 30 gal for pump gas and 7.5 gen, air comp, furnace, roof top platform with fold down rails, all this on three 7 lbs axles and should be about 14,000 lbs. My truck is a 03 6.0 4x4 crew cab short bed, power doesnt bother me it the fact that the truck is lighter than the trailer that worries me.
Thanks again for all the replies guys Don.
Last edited by DWolf; Nov 6, 2003 at 03:04 PM.
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Postmaster
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From: OK
For what you are wanting to do trailer-wise, you should really look at purchasing a medium-duty truck. Even an F350 dually would be WAY overweight pulling that load!
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Postmaster
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From: OK
You misunderstood my post...
I'm saying his truck isn't big enough! The trailer he described is too heavy for an F350 dually. Since he says he owns a Crew Cab short-bed (very rare in DRW form), I'm assuming he only has an F250. If true, then it'll be insanely overloaded by the trailer.
I'm saying his truck isn't big enough! The trailer he described is too heavy for an F350 dually. Since he says he owns a Crew Cab short-bed (very rare in DRW form), I'm assuming he only has an F250. If true, then it'll be insanely overloaded by the trailer.
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No Mo
Yes it is a F250 srw I forgot that part. One of my friends has a 38' 5th wheel toy box and a 2001 7.3 F250 4x4 crew cab short beb srw and he says it pulls great but he tends to say what he wants you to think, thats why I wanted help here I know I will get the real deal. I do see alot of big trailers behind F250 & F350 srw at glamis and looks like they pull ok just need some more imput from those who have a big trailer and do pull ok or those that have smaller ones and feel it is maxed out.
Thanks Don
Yes it is a F250 srw I forgot that part. One of my friends has a 38' 5th wheel toy box and a 2001 7.3 F250 4x4 crew cab short beb srw and he says it pulls great but he tends to say what he wants you to think, thats why I wanted help here I know I will get the real deal. I do see alot of big trailers behind F250 & F350 srw at glamis and looks like they pull ok just need some more imput from those who have a big trailer and do pull ok or those that have smaller ones and feel it is maxed out.
Thanks Don
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: OK
Take your truck to some scales and get it weighed. Be sure it's full of people, fuel and "stuff" like it would be if you were heading out to the dunes.
Take that loaded weight and subtract it from the truck's weight rating of 8,800 lbs. The answer is how much pin-weight you can add to the truck and still be within Ford's specifications. I think you'll find that you have almost zero pounds for pin-weight before exceeding the GVWR.
Now I'm not one for being exact; and going a couple, maybe even a few hundred pounds overweight isn't a big deal to me. However, you are looking at being THOUSANDS of pounds overweight. That's a little too dangerous for me and my family... as well as the general public.
Take that loaded weight and subtract it from the truck's weight rating of 8,800 lbs. The answer is how much pin-weight you can add to the truck and still be within Ford's specifications. I think you'll find that you have almost zero pounds for pin-weight before exceeding the GVWR.
Now I'm not one for being exact; and going a couple, maybe even a few hundred pounds overweight isn't a big deal to me. However, you are looking at being THOUSANDS of pounds overweight. That's a little too dangerous for me and my family... as well as the general public.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Oxford, Alabama
Doing a little reading
Was just doing a little re-reading and noticed a couple of things: One is that a 38 - 40 foot 5ver or goosneck is going to exceed the Max towing for a 350 which I belive is about 13300. If it has a triple axel with two slides then your looking at around 15500, which means that your going to have to go the F550 route. Even though it has the same motor the chassis set up is diffrent, ie Staight axel on the front, set up rear suspension etc.
And if in addition you will be going off road, dirt roads etc, then you will also need to go with the 4 X 4. This is one case where the 4 wheel drive can be worth is weight in gold. A lot of people don't think about it until its too late, bad mistake. Seen that one a couple of times.
And if in addition you will be going off road, dirt roads etc, then you will also need to go with the 4 X 4. This is one case where the 4 wheel drive can be worth is weight in gold. A lot of people don't think about it until its too late, bad mistake. Seen that one a couple of times.
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From: Ventura County, CA
DWolf,
Off-topic, but would you mind E-mailing me (off-line)? I checked out your gallery. Man, what a truck youhave! Great set-up and lots of tastefully done goodies! Have some questions if you don't mind?
Really appreciate it,
Daryl
Off-topic, but would you mind E-mailing me (off-line)? I checked out your gallery. Man, what a truck youhave! Great set-up and lots of tastefully done goodies! Have some questions if you don't mind?
Really appreciate it,
Daryl