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I have an upcoming engine swap and this is the first time I’ll be dealing with the V10. I’ve previously swapped V8’s in similar era ford trucks, however I’ve never lifted the cab and am seriously considering doing so for this V10.
I’m familiar with the process of cab removal but I’m curious if there’s any trouble areas to watch out for - broken/stubborn bolts, mount bushings/brackets that need typically need attention, etc.
This truck is relatively clean for its age but I know that’s not necessarily an indicator of what the condition of the underbody is actually like.
Good idea. These cabs were designed for easy and quick removal. There are numerous YouTube videos on how to do it. It looks a lot more dramatic than it actually is. Stubborn bolts and dirty connectors should be your only issues.
The 2009 to 2010 era Super Duty trucks had cab fasteners accessed from underneath requiring a 15mm 1/2" drive socket to remove. Regular and extended cab configurations have six cab-to- frame bolts in total, while crew cabs have eight. The biggest challenge is removing the bolts while ensuring the cage nuts do not spin inside the cab during removal attempts. On a vehicle of that vintage, an oxy-acetylene torch is going to be a requirement to heat the cage nuts up before removal attempts. Just be mindful not to set the cab on fire using excessive heat. Other than that, it's just upper and lower rad hoses, heater hoses, shifter cable, parking brake cable, A/C lines and a couple of electrical connections and you're done. Oh..... and don't forget the ground under the passenger side front door from body to frame.
Got the cab off today. Surprisingly, the cab bolts were easy to remove - it was the 2 bolts holding the front end to the frame that were the most difficult and required the torch.
I’m sure it helped, but I did soak them with PB Blaster the night before and hit them a couple of times while getting everything else unhooked.
This was FOR SURE easier than trying to swap it with the cab on.
