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Front Bleeders rusted solid

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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 08:40 AM
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2002Limited's Avatar
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Front Bleeders rusted solid

I just completed replacing the main brake line from front to rear. Filled system, and bled rear brakes. I cannot for the life of me get the fronts to crack loose. I've soaked them in penetrant for a few nights now, and nothing. The system reservoir ran dry, so I'm assuming there is air in the front lines. Pedal feels strong, have driven it a few times with no issues. I did complete rotors/bearings/ calipers. . . on the front about 5 years ago. If I can't break the bleeders loose with penetrant and a deep wall socket on my 1/4" drive, I generally don't force it. I'm thinking of reefing on it with my 3/8" and then just putting calipers on it if I break it. How much air do you think is trapped in the system?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 10:20 AM
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Heat is your friend. Also once they're out, install Russell speed bleeders with anti-seize.

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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 03:39 PM
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More than once over the years I've bled the rear brakes by loosening the fitting on the brake like to the rear wheel cylinder and then tightening it up again before the brake operator let up on the brake pedal. Always worked.

Not sure if I ever bled a disk brake caliper like that, but it might work.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 05:03 PM
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Pre-soak the bleeders with penetrating fluid and let set over night. Put the bleeder wrench on the bleeder and as you try to open it take a hammer and hit the caliper as close as possible to the bleeder several times. Also, it may be time for new calipers.

Ed
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 08:01 PM
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Tons of solid advice here. Install speed bleeders the second you get that sucker opened up.

If it was me, I'd buy some "new" calipers from your local auto parts store, specifically something that has the longest warranty. I recently had to warranty my fronts as well from Autozone, and it was cake. If you pick some up, install the speed bleeders in them before you install them.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 08:23 AM
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speed bleeders

Its been my experience that not all calipers have the same threads on the bleeders. I have speed bleeders on my 02 E350, but the thread sizes are not necessarily the same on rebuilt calipers. They may drill and tap oversize if they get damaged cores to rebuild. Make sure of the correct size before buying new bleeders.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2021 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 2002Limited
I just completed replacing the main brake line from front to rear. Filled system, and bled rear brakes. I cannot for the life of me get the fronts to crack loose. I've soaked them in penetrant for a few nights now, and nothing. The system reservoir ran dry, so I'm assuming there is air in the front lines. Pedal feels strong, have driven it a few times with no issues. I did complete rotors/bearings/ calipers. . . on the front about 5 years ago. If I can't break the bleeders loose with penetrant and a deep wall socket on my 1/4" drive, I generally don't force it. I'm thinking of reefing on it with my 3/8" and then just putting calipers on it if I break it. How much air do you think is trapped in the system?
My advice-replace the calipers. Every time I’ve had something like that happen, something else happens. I had to use a pull bar and apply pressure with a hydraulic floor jack over 2 dozens times until I could start to move it. It took an hour to remove it after using tons of penetrant, heating until the dust boots on the slide bolts were smoking Bad thing was I retorqued those bolts 2 months before because the calipers were lose from a brake job(supposedly) done by the selling dealer.

You’ll likely have to do a mutilectomy to get the fitting out with the hope the threads are the same. If you tend to have luck like mine, I’d stop while I was ahead FWIW
 
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