Wandering excursion
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
Wandering excursion
Recently installed a Kelderman 4-link 5” kit on my 2004 4x4 6.0 excursion. I am now experiencing very bad pulling either way when I drive on roads that have any grooves, like from heavy trucks. My steering is tight, and all tie rod ends, ball joints, and bearings are new. Alignment has been done as well. Wondering where I should look to correct this, I have read about adjusting the caster to +5°, using shims. But not really sure where to get the shims or where to install them.
also I’m sure the -44 offset 12” wide tires aren’t helping, but it didn’t do this prioryup swapping to the 4-link.
Any help would be greatly appreciated…..
also I’m sure the -44 offset 12” wide tires aren’t helping, but it didn’t do this prioryup swapping to the 4-link.
Any help would be greatly appreciated…..
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,049
Likes: 1,546
From: Media PA
Welcome to the EX forum! 
First off.....pictures please!
Is this the full air ride setup front and rear? Most aftermarket linked front suspensions have adjustable links that should allow for changing the caster.
What are the current alignment specs post recent alignment job?
What size tire are you running and at what pressures front and rear? Too high of pressure, especially in an oversized tire can get things a little squirrelly.
First off.....pictures please!
Is this the full air ride setup front and rear? Most aftermarket linked front suspensions have adjustable links that should allow for changing the caster.
What are the current alignment specs post recent alignment job?
What size tire are you running and at what pressures front and rear? Too high of pressure, especially in an oversized tire can get things a little squirrelly.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
I will get pics
Welcome to the EX forum!
First off.....pictures please!
Is this the full air ride setup front and rear?
What are the current alignment specs post recent alignment job?
What size tire are you running and at what pressures front and rear? Too high of pressure, especially in an oversized tire can get things a little squirrelly.
First off.....pictures please!
Is this the full air ride setup front and rear?
What are the current alignment specs post recent alignment job?
What size tire are you running and at what pressures front and rear? Too high of pressure, especially in an oversized tire can get things a little squirrelly.
Sorry, I am at work at the moment and don't have any pics but I will upload some when I get home.
The air ride is on the front only, I do have helper bags for the rear but the springs are modded C codes.
I did not receive a print out of the alignment but was told it was right at zero what ever that pertains too exactly.
currently running 35x12.5's at 50-55 psi
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,032
Likes: 308
Sorry, I am at work at the moment and don't have any pics but I will upload some when I get home.
The air ride is on the front only, I do have helper bags for the rear but the springs are modded C codes.
I did not receive a print out of the alignment but was told it was right at zero what ever that pertains too exactly.
currently running 35x12.5's at 50-55 psi
The air ride is on the front only, I do have helper bags for the rear but the springs are modded C codes.
I did not receive a print out of the alignment but was told it was right at zero what ever that pertains too exactly.
currently running 35x12.5's at 50-55 psi
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
One set of links (upper or lower) should be adjustable in length. You'll need to lengthen the lower links , or shorten the upper links, to dial in more caster. 5 degrees is kinda the sweet spot for caster, but the only real down side to more is increased steering effort.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
Thank you, I’m an idiot, I wasn’t even thinking that the 4 link is completely adjustable and that I don’t need shims. I appreciate the help I will set it at 5° and re-post my results.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 38
Likes: 9
From: Newburgh
I would also like to note that any lift to the front end will need to also have the track bar adjusted. The stock one is not adjustable and there are plenty of options for an adjustable one. I found one on eBay for $70 and others can be had in the few hundred dollar range.
I did springs, ball joints, tie rods, polyurethane bushings in the springs, body mounts, and front sway bar, tightened up the gear box, and still had some funky steering stuff going on. That is until I removed the track bar and installed an adjustable one.
The change in length from old to new was about +1" but it completely solved all my remaining drivability issues.
I did springs, ball joints, tie rods, polyurethane bushings in the springs, body mounts, and front sway bar, tightened up the gear box, and still had some funky steering stuff going on. That is until I removed the track bar and installed an adjustable one.
The change in length from old to new was about +1" but it completely solved all my remaining drivability issues.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 983
Likes: 366
I would also like to note that any lift to the front end will need to also have the track bar adjusted. The stock one is not adjustable and there are plenty of options for an adjustable one. I found one on eBay for $70 and others can be had in the few hundred dollar range.
I did springs, ball joints, tie rods, polyurethane bushings in the springs, body mounts, and front sway bar, tightened up the gear box, and still had some funky steering stuff going on. That is until I removed the track bar and installed an adjustable one.
The change in length from old to new was about +1" but it completely solved all my remaining drivability issues.
I did springs, ball joints, tie rods, polyurethane bushings in the springs, body mounts, and front sway bar, tightened up the gear box, and still had some funky steering stuff going on. That is until I removed the track bar and installed an adjustable one.
The change in length from old to new was about +1" but it completely solved all my remaining drivability issues.
in the stock leaf springs setup, the springs do the majority of the work keeping the axle centered under the truck. In fact, very few leaf springs trucks even have track bars at all. So the stock track bar on the Ex is sized accordingly small.
Now if you replace the leaf springs with a link suspension, unless its a triangulated link setup ( very hard to do in the front of a truck) then all the axle centering is now the sole responsibility of the track bar. Running the stock Ex track bar with a front link suspension would be downright unsafe. Go look at the size of the track bar in 05+ superdutys or any other coil spring front diesel, they’re massive compared to the stock Ex track bar.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
What you are describing sounds like the toe is set negative or toe out. You want a smidge of Toe In aka positive toe.
with leaf spring front suspensions I set the the caster to 5* because as the suspension cycles you loose caster, this is not the case with a linked front suspension so you shouldn’t need 5*
i would set your alignment to:
caster + 4*
camber 0*
toe + .03*
with leaf spring front suspensions I set the the caster to 5* because as the suspension cycles you loose caster, this is not the case with a linked front suspension so you shouldn’t need 5*
i would set your alignment to:
caster + 4*
camber 0*
toe + .03*
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
Fixed, mostly
Thanks for all the advice on my wandering issue. I had the alignment shop add 5° positive caster to the front axle and it made a world of difference. I think I could get rid of the remainder of the wander if I reduced my negative offset some, but I like the look and now the steering does what I want it to. So, again, thanks everyone!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Thanks for all the advice on my wandering issue. I had the alignment shop add 5° positive caster to the front axle and it made a world of difference. I think I could get rid of the remainder of the wander if I reduced my negative offset some, but I like the look and now the steering does what I want it to. So, again, thanks everyone!!
you don’t mention your toe setting or air psi. Make sure you have Toe in not Toe out. Especially with wide tires psi is critical, to high will make it wiggle all over the road.
those are more likely to be your issue than wheel offset.
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