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I wired in a 20k resistor like in the video a few post up. Note that some of the wires were the same colors so I had to figure out which one he was talking about… it wasn’t hard though, I just counted the pins to make sure I had the right one.
Mine is a 22 XLT and the bit above about oil temp being high enough first isn’t true, at least in my experience so far. For example. It was 28 degrees when I got up this morning. I did have the trucks engine block heater plugged in, but I also leave upfitter #2 on and the parking brake set from the night before. Then, when I use my key fob to crank the truck, it will automatically go to high idle. I have done this with the engine block heater plugged in and not plugged in, however high 20’s has been the lowest temps we have had so far. I can’t say that it would still go to high idle in say 0 degree weather, but so far the oil temp hasn’t made a difference.
does that potentiometer have an open position or is it always in resistance?
The potentiometer does not have an infinite (open) resistance spot. It does have a zero resistance spot. That is why I added the 642 Ω resistor in series with the wiper terminal. At worst case the idle will go to 3,000 RPM. However, I wired mine so that the circuit is "seeing" the full 50,000 Ω resistance of the potentiometer when you first enable it. As you rotate the **** the resistance drops, eventually to 0 Ω - but the series resistor I inserted prevents it from dropping below 642 Ω.
Also, the integrated switch on the potentiometer is what applies power to enable the whole circuit. When the **** is first turned, the switch applies power to the circuit and it "sees" the 50,642 Ω resistance of the circuit. I can tell you from experience that nothing happens at this setting. Once I start rotating the **** the idle begins to climb, up to the 3,000 RPM limit.
If you want to use a fixed value resistor and not tie up one of the upfitter switches you can wire it this way. You just need to provide a switch somewhere within easy reach.
So, if I have the 7.3L gas engine and want to do this to get around 1,200 RPMs, I need a 12086 ohm resistor wired to PTO bundle 9(green) and 10(white/brown), since I have gas, I run 18(yellow/green) to a pass through wire on the inside of truck, find same pass through wire under hood, and finally connect pass through wire to upfitter #1(for me). Is this all correct? I have never had upfitter switches to play with, so need to start making some mods. This is a great site and very helpful, also very costly with me wanting to do all these mods to my new Super Duty.
So, if I have the 7.3L gas engine and want to do this to get around 1,200 RPMs, I need a 12086 ohm resistor wired to PTO bundle 9(green) and 10(white/brown), since I have gas, I run 18(yellow/green) to a pass through wire on the inside of truck, find same pass through wire under hood, and finally connect pass through wire to upfitter #1(for me). Is this all correct? I have never had upfitter switches to play with, so need to start making some mods. This is a great site and very helpful, also very costly with me wanting to do all these mods to my new Super Duty.
I haven't wired it up on a 7.3l, but the schematic below doesn't seem to match what is shown above. I'm seeing 9 and 18 having the resistor between, and 7 to the upfitter switch. Also looks like a 10k ohm resistor would give close to 1200 rpm.
Maybe someone else can verify or correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct - I don't know how I screwed that gas engine part up. I went back and corrected the drawing in the post and added that it is for MY 2017 - 2019 trucks. The resistor values have changed between the 2017 - 2019 and the newer models.
I'm not judging anyone who bought one, I simply stated the truth - it is overpriced. I don't judge how people spend their money - it's their money. I just stated a fact - that BD "kit" is over-priced. There are less than $8 worth of components that it is comprised of and less than 10 minutes of labor to assemble it. Scroll up in this same thread - I posted the parts and schematics to create one yourself - and it is powered right from the SEIC connector itself - no under hood wiring involved at all.
Would you consider making these harnesses and selling them at a reasonable price?
I haven't wired it up on a 7.3l, but the schematic below doesn't seem to match what is shown above. I'm seeing 9 and 18 having the resistor between, and 7 to the upfitter switch. Also looks like a 10k ohm resistor would give close to 1200 rpm.
Maybe someone else can verify or correct me if I'm wrong.
Originally Posted by B-ManFX4
You are correct - I don't know how I screwed that gas engine part up. I went back and corrected the drawing in the post and added that it is for MY 2017 - 2019 trucks. The resistor values have changed between the 2017 - 2019 and the newer models.
Thanks for the help and clarification guys. Now I just need to get 1-10Kohm resistor and not 100.
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