Well this is my first time being down here as I usually hangout in the 60s forum but I need your help I’m going to look at a 49 Ford f1 it’s been sitting in a private collection untouched for well over 40 years unfortunately it was stored in a Kansas field, he’s asking 3000$ Fair price? he claims it has very little to no rust as it’s been a western truck it’s whole life so no salt diet and I’m wondering what should I look for on this truck anything special or special rust areas to look at? I know the motor is stuck I don’t know the situation on the rims or caps it has pretty patina and appears to be pretty straight and solid with original body panels? DISCLAIMER I have not laid eyes on this truck yet just these pictures I’m going this Sunday but I’d like to hear what you all think

 

Cab corners floor boards running boards and just general all around. Most of the time the corners and floor are the first to go.

 

do these trucks have rust problems above the windshield?

 

Welcome to this little happy place on the web. Good to know that you are venturing into new areas of truckdom.

The 48-50 models have a few typical rust spots:
The seam between the upper and lower front fenders (looks to be present in the pics)
The mating joint between the running boards and the fenders - both front and rear
The mating joint between the rear fenders and the bed sides
The rear cab corners
The running boards around the underside stiffening braces
If the truck has an air intake duct inside the PS front fender, the duct and the remains of the heater blower motor (not one of Henry's better ideas)
If the truck was hosting any critters, they tended to reside in the panel above the windshield. Between the water retained in the nesting materials and their urine (leaky little guys), the inner panel and sometimes the windshield / roof lip can suffer.
Floor boards around the accelerator pedal

The hoods typically don't have a rust issue. Some of the later models (53 to 56 specifically) were prone to rust across the front lip.

You are correct to be concerned about the drums and frame on this truck as it looks to have been in contact with the soil.

Nothing in the rust roster is usually fatal. A combination of metal repair and replacement will get you back on the road.

When you get your eyes on the truck, try to get pictures of the serial number (plate on the glove box door and on the patent plate on the firewall). There may also be stamped or painted characters on the cowl above the engine bay firewall. Either pictures or just sharing the info with this group will allow a couple of wizards to decode them.

We are all truck enablers here so don’t expect to be talked out of rescuing that beauty. We also really like pictures and giving advice.

 

The cab has a short inner panel where visors attach. Check for rust in front cab area. Mice can build nests there which causes rust.

 

Unless the frame and suspension is literally rotten (considering he laid it in that field with no rims or tires apparently), it's worth $3000. These trucks are now 70 years old. They're all gonna have issues.

 

I paid $1,500.00 in 2006 for mine out of Alice North Dakota. What you are looking at is better then some I have seen for more money. What are your plans to do on the truck?

This is mine:

 

I wanna get it going as is, original as possible I like the look it has there will be no repainting of the body or any it’s staying as I find it

 

Hey Branden
$3K for a truck that doesn't run or even have wheel/tires.... If the drivetrain is stuck -
you are basically buying a frame, cab, bed, & fenders - and those have been sitting outside
for 40 years.
1) Make sure it has a Title & that it matches the frame. I wouldn't buy it without title - too
much hassle.

2) A good Cab with no rust is priceless. It will save you so many hours of grinding & welding...
I'd definitely buy it if it had no rust in the cab & good doors.

3) If the cab roof is rusted out around the windows - I'd pass. That repair is
really hard.

4) Fenders on the '48 - '52's are huge - It's a big plus if these are in good shape.
It's a lot of work to bring an old rusty fender back to life. Fiberglass replacements are $300 ea -
steel are double that.

Drivetrain can be whatever you want to put in there. I wouldn't worry too much there unless you
want to go all original.

Good Luck over there. You are a young guy - go for it. Try to get him down under $2K if the cab
& doors are solid.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)

 

there is no title which is no problem I live in Kansas I’ve probably titled 20 vehicles on bills of sale, Kansas is very easy on antiques anything 49 and older I just need a bill of sale and the state will give me a title anything newer needs a vin inspection that costs 20$ and is painless I’m not to worried about dents or minor rust I like the old farm truck look and I do plan on keeping the drivetrain original I’m definitely keeping that flathead and 4spd in the truck unfortunately this won’t be my first project I’ve got a 52 Chevy and 66 and 67 Ford truck and I’ve bought abs sold countless vehicles I can’t even remember anymore and I’m only 19 I’ve just never ventured this old into Ford products abs on price I’d comfortably pay around 2500$ these trucks are popular and not getting easier to find so I’d like to snag one up now while I can

 

what an awesome Patina...love it!
everything else is mentioned above, good luck

 

I'm far from an expert so take my thoughts with a grain of salt. Good news on the flathead is that the hoses, carb and air cleaner are still on. That will help keep critters out. But on my Y-block I had mice bring acorns up into the cylinders from the exhaust.
If the block is cracked you have a boat anchor. Not sure how you would tell that. If you have to replace the engine, you will be into a lot bigger money and the truck won't be worth $3000 in my opinion.

Are you planning on keeping it or flipping it? You might have a hard time turning a profit if you want to flip it.

Of course we are bad enablers. Buy it and take lots of pictures as you get it road worthy. Share those pictures and your work with us.

 

a lot of people call me stupid because I buy old cars and trucks and usually only break even on them I want this 49 Ford as a project for me my goal with this truck is gonna be enjoyment not staying ahead on it, at the end of the day this is a hobby not a business for me if I make money that’s amazing if not I saved another vehicle from a salvage yard and gave it new hope that’s my goal with this old iron but in the case of this 49 it’s a bucket list truck for me and I really wanna tinker on a flathead that’s my favorite part about buying and selling playing around with cars / trucks learning the different models and engines and options and so on I love doing it

 

Great attitude, young man! I love it! And you are only 19!

Buy the truck! I wish I had a flathead.

Let's go, Branden!

 

thanks much, not to many kids like me anymore and Sunday will be the deciding day I’ll take lots of photos of it in its resting spot to send back here and a little off topic I went to a auction today and found a 1949 Ford truck owners manual so I took that as a sign lol
edit I’m not trying to sound cocky or mean with my attitude but profit isn’t my only goal I know several people who buy and sell cars as a business they call themselves car guys but they nave work on them it’s buy then immediately sell they don’t even turn a wrench