2012 Spark Plug Change
2012 Spark Plug Change
Almost time for a spark plug change. 83,700 miles on it now.
Should they be changed ahead of the recommended 97,500 mile mark?
Any known issues or problems while changing them?
Thanks
Should they be changed ahead of the recommended 97,500 mile mark?
Any known issues or problems while changing them?
Thanks
83,700 miles on it now.
Pull the fender liners and go through the wheel wells for the lower eight plugs. It takes about 15 minutes but will save you tons of aggravation trying to access the lower plugs from up top or through the small opening in the liner.
Here is my story....most of the points have been covered by others already.
I used a dab of anti-seize when installing the NEW plugs...some don't believe in it...it's your truck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ug-change.html
I used a dab of anti-seize when installing the NEW plugs...some don't believe in it...it's your truck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ug-change.html
What Qwazert said X2. Just dab a little on a Q tip. People who do not never seize a thread are just asking for a problem. I work in a chemical plant in maintenance...........oh my God at the horror stories on that subject alone.
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I bought this truck used a month ago.
The previous owners live in PA. Evidently the truck was exposed to a lot salt/brine road treatments during the winter months. which is to be expected.
Should I replace the plug wires and the ignition coils along with the plugs?
Thanks
The previous owners live in PA. Evidently the truck was exposed to a lot salt/brine road treatments during the winter months. which is to be expected.
Should I replace the plug wires and the ignition coils along with the plugs?
Thanks
I bought this truck used a month ago.
The previous owners live in PA. Evidently the truck was exposed to a lot salt/brine road treatments during the winter months. which is to be expected.
Should I replace the plug wires and the ignition coils along with the plugs?
Thanks
The previous owners live in PA. Evidently the truck was exposed to a lot salt/brine road treatments during the winter months. which is to be expected.
Should I replace the plug wires and the ignition coils along with the plugs?
Thanks
I just did my 2013. I did not remove the front wheel liners but wish I had after it was done. I replaced plugs, wires, pills and boots from RockAuto for about $160. That was with oem plugs.
I would look at the coils closely, but rebuilding the boots is probably the most you will need to do. Replacing the coils is overkill and expensive unless you know you have some going bad.
I would look at the coils closely, but rebuilding the boots is probably the most you will need to do. Replacing the coils is overkill and expensive unless you know you have some going bad.
I just did my 2013. I did not remove the front wheel liners but wish I had after it was done. I replaced plugs, wires, pills and boots from RockAuto for about $160. That was with oem plugs.
I would look at the coils closely, but rebuilding the boots is probably the most you will need to do. Replacing the coils is overkill and expensive unless you know you have some going bad.
I would look at the coils closely, but rebuilding the boots is probably the most you will need to do. Replacing the coils is overkill and expensive unless you know you have some going bad.
Rear driver's side plug on top was worst for me.. LOL..
Griz
This is an awesome thread. I didn't know you could change the boots. I never saw the part number or separate item shown in the ford parts catalogs. So I thought it was coil or nothing. I have Motorcraft plugs and wires ready to go on my work bench. I just ordered new COP boots tonight from rock auto. I kind of forgot about them for stupid stuff like this. I also put in an email for returning the coils I purchased which I now know I can replace the boots them.
Thanks for the helpful insight.
***Also planning on attacking the lower plugs through the wheel wells but with the tires off. I planning on doing this at work in the warehouse. So I rather be toasty than frozen doing this. Plus the truck should be on the warm side for easier plug removal.
Thanks for the helpful insight.
***Also planning on attacking the lower plugs through the wheel wells but with the tires off. I planning on doing this at work in the warehouse. So I rather be toasty than frozen doing this. Plus the truck should be on the warm side for easier plug removal.












