OE Radio Installed
This is the template that you use as provided by Ford. I could only find small versions of this so I used my computer to enlarge the template to the correct size. I taped this to the dash following the instructions as written on the template, then center punched the holes to be drilled out.
This photo is with the template removed. I used painters tape to assist in preventing paint chips.
Three holes are drilled. I used the needed 2 13/16 inch hole saw for the face of the radio, and a 7/32 drill bit for the upper mounting screws.
The chrome bezel and bezel gasket go in first. Simply bend the tabs on the bezel to the back of the dash sheet metal to secure it in place. There is about a 1/16 of an inch of play with the bezel for adjustments.
I removed the ashtray to help see in getting the tuner unit in place. Removing the defrosters vent hose helps to provide a little extra room as it is a tight fit. Secure the tuner unit with four screws - two seen in the photo, and two on the bottom lip of the dash (these two bottom holes are pre-drilled in all cabs as the radio was typically installed by the dealer and the holes are needed to get the template in the proper place).
Installed tuner. Connect the power lead to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch.
Next up is the power unit. It installs high under the drivers side dash. The cable hanging down from the power unit connects to the tuner unit. The speak wire connects to the power unit - remove the driver's side sun visor and drop the speaker wire down the post to the power unit - tuck the speaker wire under the rubber molding of the headliner to the center of the cab just above the rear view mirror as this is where the speaker and the speaker grill are installed.
The power unit is secured to the firewall by a 5/16 threaded stud that extends out of the back of the power unit. A pre-stamped knock out hole is on all cabs for the threaded stud to pass through.
That's all the further I went today. Next up is the antenna and the speaker.
My OE radio is a Motorola from 1953. The vibrator has been replace with solid state circuitry, and fully re-capped in the tuner and power unit. The two OE tubes remain in the tuner unit. I did connect the power lead and all works at this point - getting the antenna and speaker installed will tell if the radio fully works. I will be adding the needed noise suppressors/condensers too.
Twenty years ago I bought a radio from an old man from his 55 F800. But I never put it in my truck. Two things: a) I wanted to keep my truck like my Grandpa had it, 2) I didn't have the nerve to cut up my dash, and c) where I live in the ridge and valley section of PA we only get one AM station.
So I sold the radio at Carlisle for a little profit.
Twenty years ago I bought a radio from an old man from his 55 F800. But I never put it in my truck. Two things: a) I wanted to keep my truck like my Grandpa had it, 2) I didn't have the nerve to cut up my dash, and c) where I live in the ridge and valley section of PA we only get one AM station.
So I sold the radio at Carlisle for a little profit.
About the ring, I am sure guys would take the radios, tube box and speakers but forget the ring. But I thought the rings were reproduced.
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JB
I entertained not putting the radio back in mine, due to the 6v power supply and the cost of them is nuts. Considered a period correct clock in the hole. My brother convinced me otherwise and he’s having the radio internals updated.
TRIM RING, RADIO - #F-18842-2 - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
like someone once sang, the first cut is the deepest!
Regards, Mark.
TRIM RING, RADIO - #F-18842-2 - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
like someone once sang, the first cut is the deepest!
Regards, Mark.














