1966 N750
warranty plate is as below. I’m wondering if anyone can decode it and tell me a bit more.
I know it needs some brake work, and appears to have an interesting setup with two master cylinders. I’m also concerned because basic parts like brake shoes don’t show up even on the Napa site.
are these trucks still worth trying to fix up?
thanks in advance for any words of wisdom (or words of encouragement to run away
)
I took a picture. The owner said that the seals were bad and when sitting for a while brake fluid leaks into the booster and the vacuum is pulling it into the engine so it smokes a bit after sitting. Had me scratching my head a little but i figured the brakes were going to get replaced anyway if I restore it a little
. That is, if parts are available.
N75 = '64-'69 N750
E = 361 2V FT gas V8
U = Louisville Assembly Plant
782042 = 1966 numerical series
181 = 181 inch wheelbase
J = Red
N750 = '64-'69 N750, 22,500 lbs GVWR
F81 = Upholstery, cab type, seat type--I do not have the info for this model year.
N = Clark model 2621-V1, OR 2622-V1, OR Dana (Spicer) model 6352--all 5 speed direct transmissions
G3 = Eaton model 16802 Two Speed Rear Axle / 6.50/9.04 / 17,000 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.
No front axle code. In MY '64 to '69, only optional axles were stamped on the warranty plate. So your truck had the standard axle, probably a Ford with 5,500 or 6,000 lbs capacity.
22500 = 22.500 lbs GVWR
182 3800 = 182 certified net HP @ 3800 RPM
450794
45 = Davenport District Code
0794 = Special Order Number (Engine, trans, axle, color are all specified, so the special order must have been something else)
Let me know if this matches up to your truck. Make sure the VIN on this plate matches the title.
What kind of wheels do you have? The widow makers were on a lot of these.
I’m not sure on the wheels but I’ll look into it! Looking at some pictures I think they very well might be. This would be my first project of this scale. Learning via a firehose
thank you again for the help!Was hoping Hortwag would reply as we went through this with his N600 !
After disassembly, it looked like just one seal prevents the fluid from going under the vacumn of bellows.
Knowing it had to be impervious to fluids I was able to size at GRANGER and we got TEN for $13.76.
If you get apart, sand blast and want one let us know. MARK
Was hoping Hortwag would reply as we went through this with his N600 !
After disassembly, it looked like just one seal prevents the fluid from going under the vacumn of bellows.
Knowing it had to be impervious to fluids I was able to size at GRANGER and we got TEN for $13.76.
If you get apart, sand blast and want one let us know. MARK
I think I’m going to ditch the old Heil dump bed that’s seen better days and then make a nice flat/stake bed and use oak planks with some polished stainless rails. I have ideas for sure. Not just to start tearing into it to see if I have surprises. Truck runs and drives. Just needs some TLC, and no major rust through. Just a patina that needs blasted off. Couple of small areas on the drivers fender will need a patch welded in, but otherwise it’s surprisingly solid.
i forgot to get closer pictures of the wheels but I don’t *think* they’re widowmakers.
thanks all for the help! I’m sure I won’t be a stranger as I tear into this thing.
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The widow makers are the Firestone "Budd" type wheel. Yours are the "Dayton" style.









