hub centric vs lug centric
I don't recall ever seeing a wheel that fits over these truck's front hubs fit anywhere near hub centric on the rear axle's center hub ... nor even actually tightly on the front 4x4 hub? Reason I mention it, I see it come up elsewhere often enough and think back on my experiences.
I don't mind hub centric as long as there is enough room that the wheels don't get stuck on the hub (which I'ver seen on a police car at 2 AM when trying to change a flat on the shoulder of a cold wind swept interstate highway at which time I wouldn't have given a rat's *** for hub centric, was a OEM steel wheel on a police car stuck fast) ... but except for factory wheels, I don't recall an aftermarket wheels I've bought having "hub centricity", rather they were "lug centric". We even drag raced with lug centric and unilug wheels often enough. To my way of thinking, hub centric might help lining up wheel bolts (a "sucky" idea they are too)that thread into a vehicle's hub or axle flange, but hub centricity really has no value to speak of with lug studs and threading nuts with conical seats in place. If lug nuts won't properly secure a wheel in place, then they are a hazard anyway. If hub centric is for balance, why are they then fitted loose enough to allow removal. The cone seat lug nuts (or bolts even) will draw the wheel into a precise position ... every time with no clearance tollerance.
I imagine it is because hubs on newer cars are smaller and require the load path of the vehicles mass to be more directly transfered into the hub.
My 79 f250 axle has a 1/2 wheel stud and f350s run a 9/16 stud.
It looks like a 2015 f350/f450s run a m14 (9/16ish) stud.
The difference is the 2015 super duty is rated to pull/haul way more than my truck. My truck is closer to the new 1/2 ton f150 ratings.
And I read on some Dodge sites that this specific application was hub centric and not lug centric. And if you if you did not get them machined out just perfect you can almost never get the rim to balance.
That is why AFAIK 8 on 6 1/2 F250 rims fit a 3/4 ton Dodge and the other way around. And Ford fit a chebby but chebby does not always fit a Ford/Dodge due to the smaller hub center hole of their rims. Again AFAIK.
I seen a recent pic on here of some 3/4 ton Dodge rims on a 76 HB and asked the guy if it was a simple swap out.
I always cringe when I see see a new 3/4 plus truck hauling a heavy load with aftermarket wheels. You have to wonder if they have the hub centric adapters. Also, have you ever tried to get the load rating of a rim? Only the reputable companies usually provide that info.
I guess I do not see news stories of broken rims causing accidents so maybe I am just being to careful.
Lug centric rims transfers all the wheel load through the clamping force from the stud and nut between the wheel and it's mounting surface. If a lug nut loosens or snaps, the remaining lug nuts need to provide the extra clamping force to support the load. If they can't provide enough clamping force and the wheel slips, it can shear the remaining lugs. Lug centric rims can be hit or miss on how true they run. Usually it's not an issue and can be balanced out.
I'm a fan of hub centric rims. As long as they're cleaned and never siezed every time they are mounted it shouldn't be an issue. But there's nothing wrong with lug centric either. I just mounted some lug centric adapters on my old beater GMC so i can run later model rims and I'm not gonna be afraid to load her up every now and then. But i also check the lug nut torque on them regularly.
The only draw back to lug centric is many tire shops with new equipment don't have the adapters to properly balance some bolt patterns.

















