Purchased a 1991 F150 about two weeks ago for truck use. It's not in the worst condition for $850.
I've got some cooling issues I'm working through( heater core, thermostat, ?) so far, and she needs new tires. Someone clipped the wires to the license place lights, but all other lights work. Unless I'm missing something horrible there is only surface rust..

 

Hey, Looks nice for a work truck, I hope it serves you well!

 

I wanted a vehicle I could work on without needing a shop full of diagnostic tools to fix. I don't have my dad's mechanical skills, but I have his spirit. I'm going through the truck now to fix things the previous owner didn't deem important like a working cooling system, with a heat, and tires without dry rotted sidewalls. The simple things...

 

If I could find old Fords that nice for $850, I'd have a yard full them!

 

That's a nice truck, and a very cheap price.

The heater core is extremely easy to change. Should take 45 minutes to an hour, total.

If it's a six cylinder, you may break a thermostat housing bolt. The bolt will corrode inside the housing hole. I used heat, a hammer, penetrating oil, and vise grips, but I got it out in about 30 minutes.

 

Nice score for $850. Discount Tire is going to have a sale next week, so you can check tires there...do not forget the spare!

https://www.thetrailershoppe.com/pro...te-light-clone I use those for my license plate lamps. Easy to wire the pair and never worry about burning out.

You may want to do a radiator also, they are inexpensive enough.

 

Thank you to everyone! I changed the thermostat today, flushed the radiator, and added water, with coolant. I'm waiting on my heater core delivery
tomorrow.

I pb blastered the bolts on the thermostat housing when I got the truck, so no broken bolts,, but I got new bolts that are a hair too long,, so I anti-seazed the old ones.

Funny Discount tire didn't mention a sale when I order 5 tires last week. Maybe a phone call is due...

Thanks again everyone! I'll use this resource in the future.

 

Nice truck, and price, get you one of these, Innova 3145($35-40)OBDI code reader, they work awesome, this link tells you a lot about our trucks-->Fuel Injection Technical Library » Home

 

Just went on a short trip to check for leaks. No leaks, but I've got a tapping lifter. I'll probably change the oil tomorrow, but I've got a question.
Would adding a quart of Seafoam be a good idea to quiet the clackity clacking? The brakes are also grabbing after sitting nearly two weeks. My father-in-laws '76 F250 used to do that also, but it always worked itself out especially after the bias plays warmed up. I'll probably find someone to repair the brakes since my whole job during my youth was to stay in the cab and pump the brakes upon request... Bad idea father. Bad idea..

 

Usually a tapping lifter will unstick itself once the oil gets warm and you get the revs up. I wouldn't try seafoam in the oil - that stuff is very thin and I'm not sure if the bearings and flat tappet cam would appreciate it. If the lifter tap doesn't go away on its own, you can pull the valve cover and pushrod cover, find the offending lifter, remove it, and soak it in solvent overnight to free it up and then reinstall it with plenty of fresh oil. If that doesn't work, then it might not be lifter tap. The earlier EFI 4.9s had weak cast pistons that tend to have skirts break off and make a racket while running.

Sticking brakes could be rusty rotors, which will clean up with some driving. More likely sticky calipers though. Those are cheap enough to replace. I'd do new brake hoses, rotors, and pads too while you're at it. Replacing a caliper will require bleeding the hydraulic system.

 

I say do the seafoam, just do it with the knowledge that you're going to change the oil. i.e. Dump the seafoam in, bring it up to operating temperature, and let it run for a bit, then drain and change the oil. You can get a similar effect by dumping a quart of ATF in the crankcase a couple days before a planned oil change, if you're driving regularly. Personally, I use the Liqui-Moly Engine Flush stuff, about every third or fourth oil change on my old junk. It's been one of the few products that seems to do what it says on the tin.

 

Discount always sneaks in a sale starting the week of Thanksgiving. It is worth an ask and smart move replacing the spare, I do every 10 years on my vehicles.

I like to run 15W40 Diesel stuff (cheapo Wallmart oil) in my flat tappet motors and whatever filter you want. It sounds like you have a 4.9, you may want to ****** a new valve cover gasket and push rod cover gasket while easy access. The front main likes to leak with age as does the cover. You MIGHT be able to slip it out without disturbing the oil pan gasket, but I have not tried yet. I just popped in a fresh front main for now.

Motive makes a really nice power bleeder to really flush that crap out and you can buy other adapters for other vehicles...you can always gravity bleed the system too! I agree with replacing all the brake soft lines. My '92 had OEs on it with 320k when purchased. They are reasonable enough to swap for safety. Plenty of the guys on here can walk you through a brake job. The Haynes and Chilton manuals give a decent overview too. Unsure what a front brake job would run, never really paid attention to price. Rotors, bearings, wheel seals, pads, maybe reman calipers, etc. I would guess sub $200.

EDIT - check all the fuses for correct amperage in the correct spots. Never know with old vehicles and almost any I have purchased have been incorrect in a few spots. All fresh exterior bulbs is never a bad idea either, well at least rears.

 

The clacking went away after an oil change. For some reason he ran 5 quarts of oil instead of 6 like the manual calls for. Am I wrong on this point.
I tried to load a short video , but no go.

From the previous owner.

 

I don't recall what engine you said was in this truck, but there's no *good* reason to run one of these a quart low. It's not like we're talking about a race engine, where you're worried about oil slinging on the crankshaft counterweights, and installing crank scrapers, windage trays, and scavenging pumps.

I've always ran 6-ish in my 300's, 302's and 351W's

 

Yes it has the 300 cid straight 6. I'm running it now alternating the throttle. I get a small amount of clacking or stutter as I push on the accelerator, but not too bad. Maybe too many quiet Subaru years that I'm used to.