Sunday, November 21 Update: Re-stalled the 6 volt battery from NAPA. They kept it for an entire evening charging it. Re-stalled all my wires back to the starter solenoid (relay). The right side (“BATT”) received new yellow wire from ignition switch, two red wires from voltage regulator and the neg.(-) terminal cable from the battery. Re-stalled the green wire from the push button to the center of the starter solenoid. The truck DID turn over (great news). Checked for spark at the points and still nothing. Made sure the coil pos.(+) side was connecting to the right side of the distributor and the neg(-) blue wire that does look original is connected to the ignition switch. Went to Auto Zone and purchased another new set of points and re-stalled and still NO spark. I did make sure the ignition switch was in the open position during this test while pushing the start button. I also tried it late this evening in the dark to confirm I was not getting a spark. Reviewed my new wiring diagram that I received Saturday and all the connections look correct.

I did notice there are two copper ground wires inside the distributor. I am unable to replace them without removing part of the distributor housing as the screws that hold them down are located under the housing. The look old part are still connected to the distributor. One wire I connected to the top screw that holds down the points and the other I connected to the center nut on the back of the points along with the condenser. Not sure these two copper wires must be connected exactly to get a spark. I have no other ideas why I am getting no spark.

Thanks,
Bill

 

Can you show us some pictures of the inside of your distributor.

 

Hey Bill,
Here is another thread you should read through. Some great information in there from ALBUQ-F1 Ross who posted some photos of distributor wiring. It will answer your questions. Just note where the "primary" wire connects and the ground wire connects on the points. Copy that arrangement and you should have spark, unless one or both of those wires are disconnected inside the distributor. Or you have a wiring issue between the battery, ign switch, and coil.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1351294-51-f3-239-distributor-point-wiring.html

 

Close up picture of distributor with cap off

Picture of coil (6volt) and distributor

Picture of starter solenoid (relay). Green wire directly to “Starter Push Button “ Yellow wire directly to ignition switch. Red wires directly to voltage regulator. Battery cable terminal (right side) connected to neg.(-) side of 6 volt battery.

 

Bill,
I could be wrong, but it looks like you could have your primary wire connected to the wrong place. It looks to be grounded (talking about the one with the "flag spade terminal" ) to the points and breaker plate. Move it to the same terminal you have the condenser wire connected to. Then there should be a small, flexible, strap like ground wire. That should be grounded to where your primary wire is mis-connected to now. You could have that ground wire connected to the same terminal that the condenser is connected to and that would be the wrong place. Hope that helps. If not look at that link I shared, where Ross has done a great laying it out and providing diagrams.

 

Look were the top of the screwdriver is pointing to under the plate. There is a flathead screw. That screw is connected to a copper wire which is currently connected to the nut on the points

That copper wire is connected to were the tip of the screwdriver is pointing. The other wire under the plate is connected to the top of the points by the top screw on the points.

Do these look like they are connected correctly?

 

If I wanted to remove the plate to access the two wires under the plate how would I go about doing this. It appears that the plate is be held down by the CAM (nut) in the center of the distributor.

Distributor with points and condenser connected.
ributor

 

Hey Bill!
Your real close now! Referencing the 2nd picture, Swap the connections you have connected to the points! That ring connector you are showing in the 2nd picture under the nut, should be taken off and reconnected under that flat head screw just to the right that is holding down the points set . The connector you just removed from the flat head screw, the "flag" shaped terminal, re-connect it to under the nut, and then re-install your condenser, and connect its wire under that same nut. Now if your IGN wiring is correct and you have 6 volt current flowing from your battery, ignition switch, and making it to the - terminal of your coil, you should now have spark when cranking.

 

Nightly update 11/22/21: Switched the two wires under the distributor plate inside the distributor itself. Insulated wire connected to the nut on back of the points. Un-insulated wire connected to the top screw that holds down the points. Set points gap at .015 and reinstalled condenser. Turned ignition switch to “on” position and tested for spark with screwdriver. I have SPARKLING SPARK. This is so much fun and I am so grateful to everyone for helping out. Reinstalled rotor and cap and turned over the engine using the starter push button. It sounded like it wanted to crank once, but kept just turning over. Poured non-ethanol gas directly into carburetor, but did not seem to help. Going to remove carburetor tomorrow and remove any old gas and replace some gaskets. Will see what tomorrow brings.

Thanks again,
Bill

 

Nice Bill! We'll need a video of that running engine - you're almost there!

 

Great to hear Bill!
Bessie is correct! You are very close to a running engine.
I suggest you start a new thread now for the carburetor and fuel related work. That will get the more eyeballs on a new topic.
Just one thought I had. When you added gas to your carb, did you pour it in through the carburetor's bowl vent? Lots of folks (including me before I had part of a clue) have dumped raw gas down into the throat of the carb and that won't work and is dangerous.

 

For those who have been so helpful during my no start issues, I discovered that my F1 is actually a F3. Five lug nuts vs 8 lug nuts. My Ford has 8 lug nuts holding on the wheels.

My 1951 Ford F3 rear 2-3/8 rounded hex spindle nut is damaged and I would like to replace it, if possible. I believe the original Ford part number was: 61-4252. I have been in contacted with everyone I can think of, including the local Ford dealership. The parts manager at Ford said the same rounded hex spindle nut was used up until the early 80’s on the F250 and F350. Not sure if this true or not. If anyone has ever purchased this spindle nut, if so please provide contact information. Pictures attached.

Thanks,
Bill

 

Hey Bill,

I looked around on rearcounter.com using that part number and it did not look like anyone had one. I am no rear axle expert but I found this one in O'Reilly's website:

Spindle/Axle Nut | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

Just in case my link is bad it's O'Reilly's part #30636 Spicer 1.8125-16" inch thread by 2 3/8 hex size.

Would that one work?

 

I suggest you put this axle nut issue in a separate thread. It has nothing to do with the rest of this thread.

 

That was common when a socket was not available.