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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Nov 9, 2021 | 09:43 PM
  #1  
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Need part recommendations


This is a picture very close to another thread I made, but the pic is not for the scan tool or the mark on the right, I wanted to show the hose that is connected to the vacuum port going to my PCV.

This broke. Should I carefully epoxy repair, replace, or is it non-essential? My emissions is mostly untouched, but the connections at my charcoal canister are both broken if that was for that system.

This alternator case is unscrewing from itself.. advise?

I didnt reuse the original screws on my TPS when I changed it because the head on one was very close to stripping even with the security torx, it had rusted. So I used hardware I found at menards that matched the thread and the length. However, this aftermarket TPS(No motorcraft available, dont look at me!) doesnt fit the shaft of the screw "securely, so if I wiggle for and aft I can slightly move the TPS. I think this was causing some of my issues because the ratch or whatever.. maybe

On the subject of the alternator, I purchased it may 2019, less than 10k miles on it, and it still by all accounts seems to work (
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However, since I know I need a fan clutch and a tensioner, I might wait and see how things behave after doing those two things first.

On the PCV hose, its currently a length of bulk hose and a duralst brand pcv valve and dorman grommet. The hose has held for sometime but it s now collapsing and is too light duty. If need be, I can create hard line from galvanized or copper tubing and just flare some ends and use short runs of hose... but there has got to be a part number out there, right?
. I was going to purchase a PCV from motorcraft but I need a hose that doesnt collapse on vacuum. The original hose is dry rot and leaks all over and stiffer than hell. Ideas? Is there any reason to replace the breather or its hose to the intake duct? I was going to replace the grommet because that isnt fitting tightly.
Also, I replaced the oil cap when the original stopped working and I had to kinda pry it off because the ratcheting part broke. However, the only reason I say replace is because the seal is torn. Additionally, the base of the oil fill neck seems to have a small leak, and I was wondering how I would fix that.. Should I sand/strip the paint away where it connects to the valve cover, and use an epoxy of some kind? Oil resistant and let cure is the only thing I could think. Maybe even Pour around the base of the neck and use a shop vac on the opening of the valve cover gently to pull into the fine opening... sounds weird but without replacing valve cover which is a job i dont want to do rn that sounds like a sure-fire way to me?

On the TPS being loose, I was gonna get some low strength thread locker and remove the bolts and apply to the threads, and retorque and make sure its snug.

I have both a failing throttle cable and a shifter cable. the shifter cable is only because my brake switch wasnt working right, and I was trying to work getting out of park while in a in-ooportune situation where I kinda had to GTFO and eventually it released but its kinda loosey goosey now and it appears to have bent the little tab on the E4od a bit

This is an older pic, but there is also a crack on the MLPS and just because I have a feeling That is something that may work now but wont when i need it to the most that I would address that sooner rather than later. I havent looked for part numbers yet but I assume some of those may be motorcraft available, some not, any recommendations on brands. Also getting the brake switch which im sure is available but yeah.


ON OTHER NOTE, the day all this went to **** was preceded by a trip to the incinerator with a Very heavy load and a trailer with not the best coupler(slightly lose) so some push and shove on the road. I made sure to drive smart and increase stop distances, but I was not afraid to get on the throttle and use the 300 a bit, get some exercise. It performed WONDERFULLY and chugged along insanely well. Infact, it was almost as fast unloaded but it made a lot more pig sound since it was under load. On the way back I briefely had some open road and got up to high speed, higher rpm and then came back to normal and the thing, beside the cascade of issues I just outlined that I found later, the thing ran soooooo much more smoothly, very responsive. I think some years of sitting, various batches of old gas, age, etc got combusted out because it hasnt ran as decent in a long time Im sure. It had about half a tank of premium which im not sure if that helped but I was very happy. It used a LOT of gas but I kinda was asking for it with how I was driving LOL.

Such a productive day yet so annoying because of all the things that decided was a good time to break or become present-focus issues
 
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Old Nov 10, 2021 | 07:46 PM
  #2  
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foresixtee
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I personally replaced all my old vacuum lines with silicone vacuum hose, cheap and don't have to worry about them breaking now.
 
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