oil pan rust
oil pan rust
I'm thinking of replacing my rusted oil pan on my 94 f150 5.0 liter. Does anyone know where I can get an aftermarket that is better quality (like aluminum). Or has anyone successfully used a patching material to fix the rust spots? This seems to be a common problem with Ford trucks.
Do a search for the info you need. You can find a very good thread on oilpan rust if you searh this board using that exact phrase. Im looking for the same thing as you are. My pan is a leaking rusted mess right now and the wife keeps yellin about it!
Aaron
Aaron
Yeah,the local parts store has a replacement for around 60 bucks. I was looking for an aluminum pan. Also wondering if I could switch the non stock aluminum pan without pulling the engine.
Yeah you can. Here is a step by step procedure that takes less than three hours to complete.
1) Unbolt the tranny at the mounts on the X-member (2 nuts), and unbolt the linkage from the frame (2 bolts). Raise the tranny with a floor jack using a piece of wood under the pan. Raise it enough to place a 1x4 piece of wood between the mount studs and X-member and lower tranny onto the wood. This places the tranny at the right angle and keeps it from sliding forward. Without doing this, the pan gets caught on the tranny and the X-member, making it impossible to remove the pan.
2) Remove the upper intake.
3) Remove the motor mount nuts and raise the motor with a bottle jack at the balancer as far as it will go (I didn't have a problem with tranny lines at all). I used a 4X4 piece of wood under the bottle jack to give me additional height. Just leave the jack under it without blocking the motor with wood as the book instructs you to, this just lowers the motor which you do not want.
4) Unbolt the pan and let it rest on the X-member.
5) Unbolt the oil pump and pickup tube, let them fall in the pan. If you have done it the way outlined here the pan will literally slip right out. If you don't have a bottle jack - get one!
To install -
(Use a one-piece gasket)
1) Install gasket
When I reinstalled the new pan gasket I did it differently than most would have, but was very easy and sealed good. Before installing the new pump and pickup tube, I cleaned the block surface and pan rail with brake cleaner. Then I attached the gasket with all the pan bolts to the block. Then I removed 2 or 3 bolts at a time as I applied a thin smear (not a bead) of permatex to the block and sealed that part of the gasket as I went. By the time you have all the bolts removed the gasket is sealed to the block and will not fall off or become a pain to start the bolts with the pan up there.
2) Set the pan on X-member.
3) Install oil pump (new) and driveshaft with the distributor still installed. I tried it with both installed and removed. I found that with the distributor installed it helps locate and hold the shaft in place.
4) Now bolt up the pickup tube to the pump and the #5 main stud.
5) Bolt the pan up, you don't have to worry about the gasket if you did it like I did. Now just lower the motor and trans back down and button it up.
1) Unbolt the tranny at the mounts on the X-member (2 nuts), and unbolt the linkage from the frame (2 bolts). Raise the tranny with a floor jack using a piece of wood under the pan. Raise it enough to place a 1x4 piece of wood between the mount studs and X-member and lower tranny onto the wood. This places the tranny at the right angle and keeps it from sliding forward. Without doing this, the pan gets caught on the tranny and the X-member, making it impossible to remove the pan.
2) Remove the upper intake.
3) Remove the motor mount nuts and raise the motor with a bottle jack at the balancer as far as it will go (I didn't have a problem with tranny lines at all). I used a 4X4 piece of wood under the bottle jack to give me additional height. Just leave the jack under it without blocking the motor with wood as the book instructs you to, this just lowers the motor which you do not want.
4) Unbolt the pan and let it rest on the X-member.
5) Unbolt the oil pump and pickup tube, let them fall in the pan. If you have done it the way outlined here the pan will literally slip right out. If you don't have a bottle jack - get one!
To install -
(Use a one-piece gasket)
1) Install gasket
When I reinstalled the new pan gasket I did it differently than most would have, but was very easy and sealed good. Before installing the new pump and pickup tube, I cleaned the block surface and pan rail with brake cleaner. Then I attached the gasket with all the pan bolts to the block. Then I removed 2 or 3 bolts at a time as I applied a thin smear (not a bead) of permatex to the block and sealed that part of the gasket as I went. By the time you have all the bolts removed the gasket is sealed to the block and will not fall off or become a pain to start the bolts with the pan up there.
2) Set the pan on X-member.
3) Install oil pump (new) and driveshaft with the distributor still installed. I tried it with both installed and removed. I found that with the distributor installed it helps locate and hold the shaft in place.
4) Now bolt up the pickup tube to the pump and the #5 main stud.
5) Bolt the pan up, you don't have to worry about the gasket if you did it like I did. Now just lower the motor and trans back down and button it up.
I just replaced mine on my 89 5.8 4X4. It was a painful experience as far as time was concerned (4 nights in my stone driveway and several broken bolts on the exhaust) , but not a highly technical one.
I used a new ford oil pan, I figured it rusted out, but it took the truck 15 years, so if I get another 15 years out of it I'd be happy.
My best peice of advice is to get a good gasket. I went with the ford silicone one piece gasket with the metal inserts. There is nothing like replacing your oil pan to find out that the gasket leaks because it pushed out, or in in one spot.
I also bought a few studs and installed them loosely to give the gasket something to hold on to while I manuvered the pan up there. It also made lining up the pan a breeze. Then when I got a few pan bolts in I removed the studs and installed the rest of the bolts. Definately worth the $3 in threaded rod
Good luck, and have fun with those oil pump bolts
I used a new ford oil pan, I figured it rusted out, but it took the truck 15 years, so if I get another 15 years out of it I'd be happy.
My best peice of advice is to get a good gasket. I went with the ford silicone one piece gasket with the metal inserts. There is nothing like replacing your oil pan to find out that the gasket leaks because it pushed out, or in in one spot.
I also bought a few studs and installed them loosely to give the gasket something to hold on to while I manuvered the pan up there. It also made lining up the pan a breeze. Then when I got a few pan bolts in I removed the studs and installed the rest of the bolts. Definately worth the $3 in threaded rod
Good luck, and have fun with those oil pump bolts
Thanks Loswald, I think I'll try your idea to line up the gasket. My exhaust studs that hold the Y-pipe on are also very badly rusted. Got a bad feeling it'll be a real knuckle buster.
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New oil pan
Yeah i have a 88 ford f150 5.0L CID and that is a real pain to replace the oil pan. I couldnt do it myself so i had a shop do it, total it cost me 850 and some change. The worst part about it is that they dint even put the brether tube back on and took off my one way pcv valve form the other valve cover. What kind of idiont would do that?? i was pissed at the wrok they had done and i wish i would have dont it myself or found a friend that could do it. Ford wasnt to smar, placing the engine so oyu cant change the pan without lifting the engine.
Thanks
Thanks
The Cheaper, Less Work Method, JB Weld Patch
Well here's what I did on my old Bronco.
Drain oil pan and leave plug out, clean off oil from rusted area with brake cleaner. Wipe area down real good . Give the area a small burn with a propane torch (thats why you leave the plug out) the burn gets rid of the oil thats soaked in to the pitting. Sand area and clean up again with brake cleaner. Apply a coat of JB Weld over affected area let cure overnight sand smooth and paint. Reinstall plug, fill with oil.
It's been 6 years, and the rest of the truck is rotted out, but the oil pan still doesn't leak and my JB patch and paint looks as good as the day I put it on.
Drain oil pan and leave plug out, clean off oil from rusted area with brake cleaner. Wipe area down real good . Give the area a small burn with a propane torch (thats why you leave the plug out) the burn gets rid of the oil thats soaked in to the pitting. Sand area and clean up again with brake cleaner. Apply a coat of JB Weld over affected area let cure overnight sand smooth and paint. Reinstall plug, fill with oil.
It's been 6 years, and the rest of the truck is rotted out, but the oil pan still doesn't leak and my JB patch and paint looks as good as the day I put it on.
Last edited by Nutter; Nov 6, 2003 at 10:21 PM.
before i replaced my pan i was told that the method of using an epoxy like you said would work but being me i want it to work for sure and not to screw it up. honestly nwo i would recomend using NUTTERs idea its way cheaper.



