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I think it will but measure the mounting area of hitch and the frame to make sure.
Some of the holes my even be in the frame if you are lucky.
If it does only thing that will be a issue is getting between tank and frame to get washers and nut on the bolts and a way to keep them from turning when tightening.
Dave ----
The reason I ask this is the frame under my truck has a slight canted place where it looks like the hitch bolts up. I am looking at the photo only, just like everyone else here. The hitch is on CL and is 45 miles away. I can't really see a matching cant on the hitch. Shopping the net, I see representations of hitches that are supposed to fit my truck that have no cant. The y mat be just that, representations, not actual hitch. Some say their hitch fits 1980 thru 1996. Some have separate part numbers for the two different generations. And then there's class. This one we,re looking at here seems pretty heavy duty. Maybe a class V.
Don't understand how receivers that are straight across the mounting surface are listed as a direct bolt up to a not straight frame.
Bottom line, I'll not be going that route. And the guy selling the subject receiver... Doesn't know if it's straight or not. Too much trouble to go outside and look at it? Maybe he'll reply again with a real answer. I won't be asking again.
Don't understand how receivers that are straight across the mounting surface are listed as a direct bolt up to a not straight frame.
Bottom line, I'll not be going that route. And the guy selling the subject receiver... Doesn't know if it's straight or not. Too much trouble to go outside and look at it? Maybe he'll reply again with a real answer. I won't be asking again.
Drawtite has a website with an application section. I've looked at it before but not recently. You could try putting your year and model in and noting the suggested hitch. Then put in the 96 150 and see if it says use the same hitch. If the same hitch comes up it would indicate frame compatibility.
Drawtite has a website with an application section. I've looked at it before but not recently. You could try putting your year and model in and noting the suggested hitch. Then put in the 96 150 and see if it says use the same hitch. If the same hitch comes up it would indicate frame compatibility.
I have done this. Draw Tite has several receivers for my truck. Different styles, different classes. Some say they fit both. Some are depicted as for a canted frame, others for straight. I do think that DrawTite has humans that answer the phone for questions and may or may not have just the exact same information I already have because they are looking at the same depictions on the web page as I am.
I wish I could get by with the bumper hitch as I have always done. Problem is, now the two local equipment rental companies I use began requiring higher class hitches. I have been borrowing trucks from friends and relatives for towing.
I think my frame is flat in that area. I just installed a Curt 14001 Class 4 on my 1983 F-100 Styleside about 2-3 weeks ago. Fit perfectly, though it was a bit cumbersome to do alone. I had to use the 4 post lift, pile a bunch of 2x4 onto the top of the sliding jacks, raise it mostly into place, and use vice grips to clamp it into place. I only got nailed in the back of the head by one set of vice grips flying off, too
I think my frame is flat in that area. I just installed a Curt 14001 Class 4 on my 1983 F-100 Styleside about 2-3 weeks ago. Fit perfectly,
The bend I'm referring to is very subtle. Less than 5°. If you pulled a straight line from 9" in front of the bend to 9" behind, you'd see only maybe 1/4" gap at the mid point.
Actually, you can Google "calculate an angle". 9" and 1/4" figures to be a 3.2° angle.
The Curt receiver you used is depicted as having a wider flange with two bolts and a single, small flange with one bolt. Why is the one bolt flange remote from the other, longer flange? Maybe because it is " forward of the bend".
That Curt is a very nice, sturdy looking Class IV. Have I mentioned yet that I'm looking to get by cheap?
Fun fact: a 5.0L w/3.55 gearing is rated to tow only around 6500 lbs. or a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 11,500 lbs. The empty truck with only a driver (who is slim and handsome, like me) weighs 4,020 lbs.
You subtract the weight of the truck, occupants, and cargo from the GCWR of your truck. This is the maximum the vehicle is rated to tow.
Ratings for 1986 trucks with automatic transmission.
My truck's 7" step bumper is rated as Class III. Or 5,000 lbs towing and up to 750 lbs tongue weight.
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