thats why my uncle dad theorize if it is back pressure it could be a collapsed muffler on one side still allowing some flow through but not enough to let it idle for long, but a good point made in regards to fuel input being the issue is it should almost immediately releases all the back pressure built up when it shuts down.

 

Your line of thinking seems valid at first glance, but you’re missing an important part of the equation.

Let’s say the fuel pump is fine but the pickup inside the tank is partially restricted. If you disconnected the line at the carb inlet, that is a closed circuit. Even if flow was limited, the pump could still build up normal pressure, perhaps a bit more slowly.

Well, pressure looks good so you reconnect the line. With the engine running, fuel delivery falls short and the carb float chamber runs dry or nearly so. Hmm, fuel pressure was good so let me try a third carburetor or maybe even a distributor or muffler. As long as your money tree is healthy and bearing fruit, you’ll eventually fix it by changing enough parts.

But if you don’t have a money tree, you may want to actually diagnose the problem first. In some ways you’re lucky because it sounds like the problem is repeatable in the comfort of your driveway. You’re not chasing an intermittent fault that only appears on alternate Tuesdays during freak sunspot activity while listening to Pet Shop Boys (We don’t judge).

Instead, You’ve got an engine that consistently dies and won’t restart. Run through some basic diagnostics and figure out exactly why. Heck, at this point you still haven’t determined if it’s an ignition or fuel problem. No more parts for you until you do. I’d say you’ve already tried enough shots from the hip in hopes of a quick fix, and it hasn’t worked. The starting fluid trick is a handy little timesaver for troubleshooting.

 

Oh no, money tree is not that big, I only hip shot the the ignition module and carb, and only because I had no other ideas at the time, I do prefer diagnostics to just throwing money at the problem, which is why I posted here for help after honestly spending several hours searching through the forum hoping someone else had a similar problem before and would have something I could test that I haven’t already. And aside from checking the dist gear I’d say I e run through everything else on the ignition side of things. And considering I’ve experienced a snapped timing gear before and it would cause a similar issue to the dist gear jumping time, I’d say I’m not experiencing the same thing but putting it on the list to check if the fuel test pan out as fine. I.e. it’s a possibility but not one I currently rank very highly on the probability list. Right now I’m just hoping the forecast for Saturday warms up another few degrees. Lol

 

At one point he was driving the truck, then the hard starting. While dual wall exhaust elements can warp and restrict part of the exhaust it rarely closes off completely. So if everything else is right, fuel, spark, compression, timing....it should at least idle.

It is possible for on Halloween night that a prankster upset with a low quality treat stuffs a potato up your tail pipe

That'll plug one good.

 

Your trouble started while driving home and as you described it died on you. When it died did it shut down in a sputtering fuel starved mode or was it a sudden death engine goes from running strong to complete shut down? If the former it is likely a fuel pump fuel filter issue or a sticky float valve or other carb issue. If the latter it's likely on the ignition side.

I'd say that since you have been able to start the engine momentarily that ignition system is functioning. You're giving it half throttle to sustain a weak idle. Again points to a fuel issue.

 

Problem originated while driving, specifically while climbing a hill on the highway, engine began sputtering like it was running out of fuel, but was still running long enough to take the exit halfway up the hill and make it to the light at the exit.

so put fuel gauge in, turned it over a good 30sec no pressure on the gauge, I mean 0 fluctuating, put in a new fuel pump, pressure now will climb to 7psi, engine started ran for about 15sec now then sputters out and dies with throttle at halfway.

fuel pressure drops to 4psi then jumps back up to 7psi while engine is running.

pulled the fuel tank switch cleaned out with air gun, blew air through all the fuel lines between the tanks and carb.

bypassed tank selector to front tank, problem persists.

appears next task is to get to the fuel tanks and check pick up lines/replace pick up lines.

correct me if I’m wrong or where to go from here.

 

So just pulled the line and put line to a container turned key with coil disconnected and the pump pumped exactly 2 times in a ten second span. Bad new pump maybe.

 

Maybe a bad fuel pump. But in addition to the pressure test you should do the volume test as well. Both tests must be in spec before going further.

 

That seems like a fuel issue. Check all filters, pickup, fuel pressure and delivery has to be spec or you're gonna sputter.

Question, How does the engine sound when you get it started? Any missing right off the bat? Then it sputters out? Points to a fuel issue.

 

Starts runs normally for about 1-2 seconds then bogs down like it’s running out of fuel.

Ran a fuel volume test pump should put out .6gal in a minute, which it did.

so no clogs or blockage affect flow or pressure now, which seems to eliminate fuel delivery as the issue now. Had a spare (good) starter solenoid, swapped with the existing one as it’s the only part of the ignition system that hasn’t been replaced/tested.

No change.

disconnected the coil and pulled the cap off, checked the rotor on the dizz no slipping or odd issues with the rotation, when turning the engine over.

so now it looks like it’s time to set it to tdc by hand and check the dizz.

If that checks out then where do I go from there?

 

You got pressure and volume from the fuel pump. That's good. You say the engine starts and runs normal for 1 or 2 seconds. I'm wondering if the carb is getting fuel. Maybe the float is stuck? Did you check for a good stream of fuel down the throat of the carb when actuating the throttle like Dave suggested?

 

yes gets good fuel stream through the carb, the float seems to be actuating properly from what I can tell.

 

Ok, you've covered fuel supply. Check that box. On to ignition timing, spark and compression.

When the engine starts for that second or two of "normal" running. Does it start right up? Are you cranking and cranking to get it to start? After it starts and dies is it repeatable? Just won't stay running? But crank it again and you get another few seconds?

 

*sighs* at times the engine fires right up no issues then at other times it’s just playing crank around the rosie please start please start… that is to say sometimes it fires up as soon as you pump twice and turn the key, other times you’ll crank and crank and nothing.
It’s the same way with restarting. Sometimes it’s a simple turn key or one pump turn key and it restarts briefly (run maybe 5 sec) other times it’s the initial start then won’t restart.

which has me wondering since the stator is turning consistently (at that time) if maybe it has/is jumping time somehow.

in relation to all the electrical components to the ignition everything is working or that was borderline or outright bad, has been replaced.

 

You mention pump twice and it starts. It's using the fuel from the accelerator pump. Have you had any fuel quality issues while running the current carburetor? It's possible the carburetor jets are plugged. Have you rejetted and reset your H and L mix screws?

Try this. Once started try lightly tapping the accelerator to continuously deliver fuel through the accelerator pump. Try to keep it running without flooding it. If it stays running like that but dies when you quit perhaps the jets are plugged.