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Today I soldered in a new CPS pigtail and a length of 3/18 SO cord to replace the existing CPS wires to the PCM plug. I know that's rather drastic. But after today the high temps will only be in the low 40s and my truck does not fit in any of my sheds.
I have done and checked everything I can think of and still no start. If nothing else comes to light. I guess I have no recourse but to have a tow truck haul it to the dealer 16 miles away. This will be the first time I could not fix the issues since I have owned it.
could be pcm do you have any buddy’s around with a truck you could borrow one out of?
Yes, for years, it's how I know if there is no tach needle movement on an OBS? It will not start. It's what is happening on mine. Everything is working except the tach needle. I tried two new cps sensors from Clay (RiffRaff) and soldered in a new cps pigtail and wires to the PCM plug. I can do no more with the CPS circuit.
I don't know anyone around here that would have a PCM to borrow. That's one thing I should have a spare.
I don't understand why there are no error codes? The service engine soon light comes on for a few seconds when the key is turned on.
I sent an email to Jon at DTS explaining the issue I'm having and asked if he thinks it's a PCM problem? My PCM is a stone knives and bear skins 24 year old computer. A good test and at least all the capacitors replaced would be worth the cost IMO.
You can test the cps is working by pulling the sensor and wiring out a bit then waving a wrench in front of it quickly with the key on.
You should notice the tach wavering slightly.
It's a simple test that doesn't require any cost involved.
IT DOES MOVE! Thank you! It does not move when installed in the engine.
But the tach needle doesn't move each time the wrench moves past the sensor. I had my wife move it as fast as possible and the tach needle moves about a 32nd of an inch every 2 or 3 seconds. I guess I need to measure the distance from the surface of the hole in the front cover to the surface of the cam wheel. With that measurement I can calculate the gap size. Now to find the gap tolerance.
I had the engine rebuilt by Baril in Green Bay 3 years ago. They do the engine warranty work for the Fabic (Cat) dealer. It only has about 38,000 miles on it. I find this unbelievable. Baril machined the LPOP surface and gasket surface a few thousandths in the front cover to clean up minor wear by the LPOP gears. As a result, the tolerance by the CPS sensor should be more tight than typical 7.3s. I guess the depth gauge will tell the story tomorrow.
Thanks for being persistent.
Side note: My wife (British) hates my truck. She claims it's my mistress and named it Tuppence. She states I spend a lot of time and money on it. :<{)
Target CPS gap is supposed to be 0.25". I wounder what the typical run out of the cam wheel is? I will be hacking one of my CPS sensors tomorrow. Stay tuned.
I talked to the local Ford parts guy and he let me try the Ford version. It didn't work any better in my engine.
I messaged Jonathan at Diesel Technology this morning and got a reply. I was asked if the cam wheel was removed when I had the engine rebuilt? No Are their any scratches on the face of the CPS? No And to send a quality close up picture of the CPS. He also stated that it would be easy to test and that he owns a 1997 and would stick my PCM in his truck and check if it starts? Great!
I was asked to make 3 aluminum can shims and try them on the CPS. No start and no tach needle movement with either. I think it's time to send the PCM in? He did state it's very very rare for the CPS circuitry to fail in the PCM.
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