So after working on my truck and trying to take it to the dealership after I exhausted my options on fixing it. What are suggested parts to replace when doing a high pressure fuel pump? I'm not 100% sure that's my issue but the dealership has no clues without actually returning my truck back to stock for a price tag of $2k with no guarantee it will be the issue. Gonna like my wounds and figure it out on my own and save myself from further dealership theft.

 

speak with the tuner people. you should have the stock tunes yourself.

But without it running you cannot go back to stock. So most likely the dealer wants to put a new pcm in it.

What codes do you show?

 

Sorry for missing details.. been a long ordeal with this truck and frustrating.

I installed the cp3 bypass kit on the truck and it was running. Only reason I shut it back down was I had a fuel leak that I was working on fixing. And after that it wouldn't restart. They wanted to take the cp3 bypass off the truck and see if that would fix the issue. Even after I told them it was running and had been running with the system installed.

 

So has to be air in the system.

First thing I would do is ensure full battery charge. Then consider removing and reinstalling filters and then key on key off at least 10 times.

leave the key on until you hear the fuel pump shut off. Key off for a 30 seconds and then key on for the 10 times.

See what that does.

 

Think there is a chance of air in the high pressure system? I have fuel all the way to the high pressure pump verified by myself and then reperformed by Ford service department.

 

classic case of air or fuel delivery.

Have you checked all fuses?

Years ago I changed filters and after bleeding I had a no start. Turned out to be the fuel cutoff switch. Ford used to put those on the passenger side of the dash after you would open the passenger side front door you would see an opening there for it.

It would trip upon a fuel filter change. So don't know if your year has that cutoff switch but worth exploring.

 

You might try taking it to a quality diesel shop for diagnosis.

 

Checked all fuses I could find to check but never check the fuel cut off. I will check that next.

 

I'll have to check around and try to ask other shops. I have 2 more sensors I think I can check and replace. If those don't work I'm gonna prepare for high pressure pump replacement. As that's the only part I'd have left.

 

So running fine….install cp4 bypass..and now it won’t nt run.



Before you installed the cp4 bypass kit, did you clean the area around the metering valve before you removed the metering valve?

we are getting a lot of reports about similar things from folks who install gen 1 cp4 bypass kits.

is this the kit in which you have to hacksaw cut the metal tube that feeds the metering valve?

 

installed the kit about a year ago discovered after some time that I was leaking fuel on the top side of my motor. And finally got the time to fix it after a year. Was running with the kit installed... until I shut it down.. area was clean prior to dessembly and reassembly. It is the gen 1 kit where you cut the metal tube with a hacksaw/tubing cutter.

 

there are two types of o rings

1 is just an oring. And there have been cases of too skinny f the new and/or reuse of old one that’s damaged

1 has a star lock washer looking holder that prevents the oring from being mis seated.

me personally would spend 15 bucks and buy an oring kit from my local mom and pop parts store. I would buy the green ones. Then replace all the o rings associated with the bypass plate and metering valve.

brake clean the entire area before diss assembly.

light grade red lock tight those two torque screws that hold the by plastic plate down and tighten them both evenly and gradually , and there is a torque spec for those two Torx bolts.

the hose for the cp4 bypass plate s supposed to point to the driver so it doesn’t bend. If it points to the pax, the hose will get folded during reassembly.

i agree that this could be an air thing and the air could be sucked in thru the o rings that were previously leaking.

and sure, could be a coincidental failure of something unrelated to the by pass kit such as lower gift pump electrical system or lower lift pump itself. But you can use a scan tool to figure that out. The odbc Bluetooth plug for forscan comes with a myodbc scan software so you can use either to measure lower lift pump pressure with key on.

who ever you deal with needs to know end to end what the fuel sys history is.

this sounds like a 2 to 3 hour job to me.

 

Also

these gen1 DPK kits that have the hacksaw tubing install are marginal injector protection. The path where the fuel spits between injectors and rollers is about 1/4 inch long. During a pump failure the metal particles quickly back up and can travel to the injectors.

in gen2 kits the path is more than 12 inches .

abd in the case of s&s the return path has 2 micron filtration.